Consuming Passions: Leisure and Pleasure in Victorian Britain (88 page)

41
Penelope Byrde,
The Male Image: Men’s Fashion in Britain, 1300-1970
(London, B. T. Batsford, 1979), p. 200.

42
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 240.

43
Byrde,
Male Image
, pp. 200-201; Sutton, ‘The Marketing of Ready Made Footwear’,
Business History
, 6, 2 (1964), p. 96.

44
Sutton, ‘The Marketing of Ready Made Footwear’,
Business History
, 6, 2 (1964), pp. 96-7.

45
Alison Gernsheim,
Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey
(New York, Dover, 1981), p. 38.

46
Chapman, ‘The Innovating Entrepreneurs’,
Textile History
, 24, 1 (1993), pp. 16-17.

47
All in the John Johnson Collection of Ephemera, Bodleian Library, Oxford.

48
Cited in Altick,
Shows of London
, p. 221.

49
Cited in Chapman, ‘The Innovating Entrepreneurs’,
Textile History
, 24, 1 (1993), pp. 19-20.

50
Cited in Breward,
Hidden Consumer
, p. 158.

51
Cited in ibid., p. 156.

52
Ibid., p. 125.

53
Terry Nevett, ‘Advertising and Editorial Integrity in the Nineteenth Century’, in Michael Harris and Alan Lee, eds.,
The Press in English Society from the Seventeenth to the Nineteenth Centuries
(London, Associated Universities Presses, 1986), pp. 151-2.

54
Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 12.

55
Cited in David Alexander,
Retailing in England during the Industrial Revolution
(London, Athlone Press, 1970), p. 10.

56
I owe the omnibus information in the three preceding paragraphs to Derek H. Aldcroft and Michael J. Freeman,
Transport in the Industrial Revolution
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1983), pp. 135, 139-40.

57
Ibid., pp. 143-4, 153-5.

58
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, pp. 140-41.

59
Aldcroft and Freeman,
Transport in the Industrial Revolution
, pp. 144-5.

60
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, p. 123.

61
Cited in Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, p. 96.

62
Grant Thorburn,
Men and Manners in Britain
(New York, [no publisher], 1834), pp. 35-6, cited in Altick,
Shows of London
, p. 226.

63
Francis Place,
The Autobiography of Francis Place (1771-1854)
, ed. Mary Thale (London, Cambridge University Press, 1972), vol. 2, p. 123.

64
Charles Manby Smith,
The Little World of London; or, Pictures in Little of London Life
(London, Arthur Hall, Virtue, and Co., 1857), pp. 19-24.

65
Sophie von la Roche,
Sophie in London, 1786, being the Diary of Sophie v. la Roche
, tr. Clare Williams (London, Jonathan Cape, 1933), pp. 237-9.

66
Ibid., p. 87.

67
Place,
Autobiography
, vol. 2, p. 123.

68
Cited in Crossick and Jaumain,
Cathedrals of Consumption
, p. 55.

69
[W. H. Ablett, ed.],
Reminiscences of an Old Draper
(London, Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, 1876), p. 18.

70
Ibid., pp. 201-2.

71
The two sets of streets are named in
Picture of London
, 1803, cited in McKendrick, ‘The Commercialization of Fashion’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 78.

72
Robert Southey,
Letters from England
(1807), ed. Jack Simmons (London, Cresset Press, 1951), pp. 49-50.

73
Listed in Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 14.

74
Friedrich Engels,
The Condition of the Working Classes in England
(1845), tr. and ed. W. O. Henderson and W. H. Chaloner (Stanford, Cal., Stanford University Press, 1968), p. 56.

75
Michael Winstanley, ‘Temples of Commerce: Revolutions in Shopping and Banking’, in Philip Waller, ed.,
The English Urban Landscape
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2000), p. 154.

76
Cited in Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 207.

77
Ibid.

78
Bill Lancaster,
The Department Store: A Social History
(London, Leicester University Press, 1995), p. 75.

79
Cited in Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, pp. 142-3.

80
Cited in Walsh, ‘The Newness of the Department Store’, in Crossick and Jaumain,
Cathedrals of Consumption
, p. 58.

81
Maria Edgeworth,
Castle Rackrent
and
Ennui
(1800; 1809), ed. Marilyn Butler (Harmondsworth, Penguin, 1992), p. 147.

82
Frances Burney,
The Wanderer; or, Female Difficulties
(1814), ed. Margaret Anne Doody, Robert L. Mack and Peter Sabor (Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2001), p. 426.

83
Frances Burney,
Evelina, or, The History of a Young Lady’s Entrance in the World
(1778), ed. Margaret Anne Doody (Harmondsworth, Penguin, 1994), p. 456, n. 48.

84
Cited in Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 18.

85
Ibid., p. 22.

86
Altick,
Shows of London
, pp. 38-9.

87
Sala,
Twice Round the Clock
, p. 175.

88
A Visit to the Bazaar
, pp. 3-5.

89
Cited in Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 19.

90
Emil Zola,
Au Bonheur des Dames
(
The Ladies’ Paradise
) (1883), tr. and ed. Robin Buss (Harmondsworth, Penguin, 2001), p. 23.

91
Wolfgang Schivelbusch,
The Railway Journey: The Industrialization of Time and Space in the 19th Century
(Leamington Spa, Berg, 1986), p. 188.

92
Fowler, ‘Changes in Provincial Retail Practice’, in Alexander and Akehurst,
The Emergence of Modern Retailing
, p. 50.

93
Gareth Shaw, ‘The Evolution and Impact of Large-Scale Retailing in Britain’, in John Benson and Gareth Shaw, eds.,
The Evolution of Retail Systems, c.1800-1914
(Leicester, Leicester University Press, 1992), p. 138.

94
Lancaster,
The Department Store
, pp. 48-50.

95
Ibid., pp. 34-6.

96
Ibid., p. 51.

97
Cited in Erika Diane Rappaport,
Shopping for Pleasure: Women in the Making of London’s West End
(Princeton, Princeton University Press, 2000), p. 82.

98
Brent Shannon, ‘ReFashioning Men: Fashion, Masculinity, and the Cultivation of the Male Consumer in Britain, 1860-1914’, in
Victorian Studies
, 46, 4 (2004), p. 611.

99
Asa Briggs,
Friends of the People: The Centenary History of Lewis’s
(London, B. T. Batsford, 1956), pp. 28-9, 38, 43, except the information about the Two-shilling Tea, which appears in Forrest,
Tea for the British
, pp. 175-6.

100
Briggs,
Friends of the People
, p. 37.

101
K. Theodore Hoppen,
The Mid-Victorian Generation, 1846-1886
(Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1998), p. 352; Winstanley, ‘Temples of Commerce’, in Waller,
The English Urban Landscape
, p. 164.

102
Briggs,
Friends of the People
, p. 77.

103
Listed in Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 278.

104
Shaw, ‘The Evolution and Impact of Large-Scale Retailing in Britain’, in Benson and Shaw,
Retailing Industry
, p. 239.

105
Ian Nairn,
Nairn’s London
(Harmondsworth, Penguin, 1966), pp. 165-6.

106
Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, pp. 152-3.

107
Rappaport,
Shopping for Pleasure
, p. 150.

108
Zola,
Au Bonheur des dames
, pp. 407-8.

109
The information on the murders is to be found in Robert and Isabelle Tombs,
That Sweet Enemy: The French and the British from the Sun King to the Present
(London, Heinemann, 2006), p. 382; the evaluation of Pilotelle’s Marat collection is from the preface of Ernest Balfour Bax,
Jean-Paul Marat: The People’s Friend
, which can be found on the Marxists Internet Archive, at www.marxists.org/archive/bax/1900/marat/preface.htm.

110
All from Alison Adburgham,
Liberty’s: A Biography of a Shop
(London, George Allen & Unwin, 1975), pp. 12-17, 21-2, 30-31, 35-45.

111
Lancaster,
The Department Store
, pp. 55-6.

112
1900 figures: Jefferys,
Retail Trading in Britain
, p. 29. 1910 figures: Geoffrey Crossick and Serge Jaumain, ‘The World of the Department Store: Distribution, Culture and Social Change’, in Crossick and Jaumain,
Cathedrals of Consumption
, p. 5. The conclusion is, however, my own.

113
Gordon Honeycombe,
Selfridges: Seventy-five Years: The Story of the Store, 1909-1984
(London, Park Lane Press, 1984), pp. 22-4.

114
[Ablett],
Reminiscences of an Old Draper
, pp. 30ff.

115
Honeycombe,
Selfridges
, pp. 25-6.

116
This paragraph relies on Lancaster,
The Department Store
, pp. 72, 75, except the information about the Selfridge’s livery, from Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 274.

117
Cited in Rappaport,
Shopping for Pleasure
, pp. 155, 158-9.

118
Honeycombe,
Selfridges
, pp. 13-14.

119
Mathias,
Retailing Revolution
, pp. 100-101, 108.

120
Honeycombe,
Selfridges
, p. 12; Lancaster,
The Department Store
, p. 72.

121
Rappaport,
Shopping for Pleasure
, p. 157.

122
Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 276.

4
:
Read All About It: Buying the News

1
John Brewer is the author of the phrase ‘legislative accident’,
Pleasures of the Imagination
, p. 131.

2
Clark,
British Clubs and Societies
, p. 40; Roy Porter, ‘Material Pleasure in the Consumer Society’, in Porter and Roberts,
Pleasure in the Eighteenth Century
, p. 24; Borsay,
English Urban Renaissance
, p. 129.

3
Porter and Roberts,
Pleasure in the Eighteenth Century
, p. 24.

4
French, English, Scottish and Welsh (English-language) newspapers: Linda Colley,
Britons: Forging the Nation 1707-1837
(London, Pimlico, 1994), pp. 41, 220; Ireland: Richard Cargill Cole,
Irish Booksellers and English Writers, 1740-1800
(London, Mansell, 1986), pp. 15-17; Welshlanguage newspaper: John Feather,
The Provincial Book Trade in Eighteenth-Century England
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1985), p. 16.

5
Diana Dixon, ‘Newspapers in Huntingdonshire in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries’, in Peter Isaac and Barry McKay, eds.,
The Mighty Engine: The Printing Press and its Impact
(Winchester, St Paul’s Bibliographies, 2000), pp. 143-4;
Northampton Mercury
, 31 May 1720.

6
Bob Clarke,
From Grub Street to Fleet Street: An Illustrated History of English Newspapers to 1899
(Aldershot, Ashgate, 2004), pp. 114-15.

7
James Raven, ‘The Book Trades’, in Isabel Rivers, ed.,
Books and their Readers in Eighteenth-Century England
([Leicester?], Leicester University Press, 1982), p. 24.

8
Cited in William St Clair,
The Reading Nation in the Romantic Period
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 2004), pp. 309-11.

9
T. R. Nevett,
Advertising in Britain: A History
(London, Heinemann, 1982), p. 51.

10
Altick,
English Common Reader
, p. 323.

11
Clark,
British Clubs and Societies
, p. 69.

12
Cited in Brewer,
Pleasures of the Imagination
, pp. 183-4.

13
Nevett,
Advertising in Britain
, p. 51.

14
R. Bradley,
The Virtue and Use of Coffee
. . . (London, 1772), cited in Walvin,
Fruits of Empire
, p. 37.

15
Nevett,
Advertising in Britain
, p. 51.

16
Cited in Borsay,
English Urban Renaissance
, pp. 133-4.

17
Jeremy Greenwood,
Newspapers and the Post Office, 1635-1834
([no place of publication], Postal History Society, 1971), unpaginated.

18
Howard Robinson,
Britain’s Post Office: A History of Development from the Beginnings to the Present Day
(London, Oxford University Press, 1953), p. 65.

19
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, p. 40.

20
Robinson,
Britain’s Post Office
, pp. 102, 104-6, 114.

21
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, p. 41.

22
Robinson,
Britain’s Post Office
, p. 121.