Consuming Passions: Leisure and Pleasure in Victorian Britain (87 page)

24
Claire Walsh, ‘The Newness of the Department Store: A View from the Eighteenth Century’, in Geoffrey Crossick and Serge Jaumain, eds.,
Cathedrals of Consumption: The European Department Story, 1850-1939
(Aldershot, Ashgate, 1999), p. 49.

25
Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood
, pp. 120-21.

26
Brenda J. Scragg, ‘James Lackington’, in
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography.

27
Cited in Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, pp. 17-18.

28
Cited in Kenneth Quickenden, ‘Boulton and Fothergill Silver: Business Plans and Miscalculations’,
Art History
, 3, 3 (September 1980), p. 284.

29
Hildyard,
Leeds Mercury
, 5 March 1751; Davenport and Co., ibid., 14 May 1751. Both cited in Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, pp. 231, 232-3.

30
Cited in ibid., pp. 14-15.

31
Jeremy Bentham,
An Introduction to the Principles of Morals and Legislation
(London, T. Payne and Son, 1789), xviii. §17 note.

32
Sir Joshua Reynolds,
The Discourses of Sir Joshua Reynolds
, ed. Edmund Gosse (London, Kegan, Paul, Trench & Co., 1884), p. i.

33
‘A Methodized Journal, 1773-1786’, Huntington Library, HM31201, p. 60, cited in Elizabeth Eger, ‘Luxury, Industry and Charity: Bluestocking Culture Displayed’, in Maxine Berg and Elizabeth Eger, eds.,
Luxury in the Eighteenth Century: Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods
(Basingstoke, Palgrave Macmillan, 2003), p. 202n.

34
Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels,
The German Ideology
(Moscow, Progress Publishers, 1976), p. 48.

35
Colin Jones and Rebecca Spang, ‘Sans-culottes,
sans café, sans tabac
: Shifting Realms of Necessity and Luxury in Eighteenth-Century France’, in Berg and Clifford,
Consumers and Luxury
, p. 38.

36
William J. Ashworth,
Customs and Excise: Trade, Production, and Consumption in England, 1640-1845
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2003), pp. 40, 1-2, 10.

37
Both advertisements cited in Denys Forrest,
Tea for the British: The Social and Economic History of a Famous Trade
(London, Chatto & Windus, 1973), p. 23.

38
Ibid., pp. 33-4.

39
Ibid., p. 54.

40
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, pp. 250-51.

41
McKendrick, ‘The Consumer Revolution’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of Consumer Society
, p. 29; James Walvin,
Fruits of Empire: Exotic Produce and British Taste, 1660-1800
(New York, New York University Press, 1997), pp. 25, 30; and Peter Mathias,
Retailing Revolution: A History of Multiple Retailing in the Food Trades based upon the Allied Suppliers Group of Companies
(London, Longmans, Green and Co., 1967), p. 24.

42
Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, pp. 204-5; Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 148.

43
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 174.

44
Ashworth,
Customs and Excise
, p. 47; Walvin,
Fruits of Empire
, p. 119.

45
Walvin,
Fruits of Empire
, pp. 119-120.

46
Uglow,
Lunar Men
, p. 412.

47
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, pp. 256-9.

48
Ibid., pp. 262-72.

49
Ibid., pp. 273-5.

50
Weatherill,
Consumer Behaviour
, p. 25.

51
Walvin,
Fruits of Empire
, p. 27.

52
Cited in Uglow,
Lunar Men
, p. 96.

53
Ibid., p. 219.

54
Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood
, pp. 10-14.

55
Cited in ibid., p. 87.

56
Cited in Neil McKendrick, ‘Josiah Wedgwood and the Commercialization of the Potteries’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 141.

57
Cited in Neil McKendrick, ‘Josiah Wedgwood: An Eighteenth-Century Entrepreneur in Salesmanship and Marketing Techniques’,
Economic History Review
, 2nd series, 12, 3 (1960), p. 415.

58
Ibid., pp. 414-15.

59
Cited in Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood
, p. 206.

60
Cited in McKendrick, ‘Josiah Wedgwood and the Commercialization of the Potteries’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 112.

61
Cited in Brian Dolan,
Josiah Wedgwood: Entrepreneur to the Enlightenment
(London, HarperCollins, 2004), p. 267.

62
McKendrick, ‘Josiah Wedgwood and the Commercialization of the Potteries’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 121.

63
Cited in Uglow,
Lunar Men
, p. 201.

64
Cited in Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, pp. 109-10.

65
Cited in McKendrick, ‘Josiah Wedgwood and the Commercialization of the Potteries’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 125.

66
Cited in Dolan,
Josiah Wedgwood
, p. 216.

67
McKendrick, ‘Josiah Wedgwood and the Commercialization of the Potteries’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, pp. 130-31.

68
Ibid., p. 126.

69
Cited in ibid., p. 118.

70
Cited in Una des Fontaines, ‘Wedgwood’s London Showrooms’,
Proceedings of the Wedgwood Society
, 8 (1970), p. 197.

71
Simeon Shaw,
A History of the Staffordshire Potteries and the Rise and Progress of the Manufacture of Pottery and Porcelain
(Hanley, [n.p.], 1829), p. 124.

72
Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood
, p. 21.

73
Ibid., p. 48.

74
The information in this paragraph is derived from Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, pp. 23-6.

75
Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood
, pp. 46-7.

76
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, pp. 29-30.

77
The information in these two paragraphs is from Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, pp. 31-7 and 45, except the information about Kirkby Stephen, which is in Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 12.

78
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, p. 45.

79
Adam Smith,
The Wealth of Nations
[1776], Glasgow, [no publisher], 1805), vol. I, pp. 25, 202.

80
Peter Borsay,
The English Urban Renaissance: Culture and Society in the Provincial Town, 1660-1770
(Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1989), p. 22.

81
Bagwell,
Transport Revolution
, pp. 1-4.

82
Francis D. Klingender,
Art and the Industrial Revolution
(London, Evelyn, Adams & Mackay, 1968), pp. 15-16.

83
Cited in Uglow,
Lunar Men
, pp. 142-3.

84
Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood
, pp. 50, 52, 55, 58.

85
These two paragraphs are based on Stanley Chapman,
The Early Factory Masters: The Transition to the Factory System in the Midland Textile Industry
(London, Gregg Revivals, 1992), pp. 85-91.

86
Roger Scola,
Feeding the Victorian City: The Food Supply of Manchester, 1770-1870
, ed. W. A. Armstrong and Pauline Scola (Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1992), pp. 202-4.

87
Christina Fowler, ‘Changes in Provincial Retail Practice during the Eighteenth Century, with Particular Reference to Central-Southern England,’ in Nicholas Alexander and Gary Akehurst, eds.,
The Emergence of Modern Retailing, 1750-1950
(London, Frank Cass, 1999), p. 41.

88
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 76.

89
McKendrick, ‘The Commercialization of Fashion’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 88.

90
James Woodforde,
The Diary of a Country Parson, 1740-1803
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1924-31), vol. 1, p. 332.

91
Henry Mayhew,
London Labour and the London Poor
(London, Woodfall, 1851), vol. I, p. 27.

92
Cited in Dorothy Davis,
A History of Shopping
(London, Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1966), p. 245.

93
Beverly Lemire,
Fashion’s Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain 1660-1800
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1991), p. 136.

3:
The Ladies’ (and Gents’) Paradise: The Nineteenth-century Shop

1
Scola,
Feeding the Victorian City
, pp. 206-8.

2
Ralph Hancock, ‘Sugar’, in Alan Davidson, ed.,
The Penguin Companion to Food
(Harmondsworth, Penguin, 2002), pp. 917-21.

3
James B. Jefferys,
Retail Trading in Britain, 1850-1950: A Study of Trends in Retailing with Special Reference to the Development of Co-operative, Multiple Shop and Department Store Methods of Trading
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1954), p. 2.

4
Alexander and Akehurst,
The Emergence of Modern Retailing
, pp. 16-20.

5
Cited in Arnold Bonner,
British Cooperation: The History, Principles, and Organisation of the British Co-operative Movement
(rev. ed., Manchester, Cooperative Union, 1970), pp. 22-3.

6
The information in the previous three paragraphs comes from Bonner,
British Co-operation
, pp. 28, 44, 45, 49-51, 51-2, 73, 103-4.

7
Julia Hood and B. S. Yamey, ‘The Middle-Class Co-operative Retailing Societies in London, 1864-1900’,
Oxford Economic Papers
, 9 (1957), p. 311.

8
Ibid.

9
Winstanley,
Shopkeeper’s World
, pp. 36-7.

10
Mathias,
Retailing Revolution
, p. 36.

11
Ibid., pp. 96-7.

12
Francis Goodall, ‘Marketing Consumer Products before 1914: Rowntrees and Elect Cocoa’, in R. P. T. Davenport-Hines, ed.,
Markets and Bagmen: Studies in the History of Marketing and British Industrial Performance, 1830-1939
(Aldershot, Gower, 1986), p. 19.

13
Mathias,
Retailing Revolution
, p. 48.

14
Ibid., pp. 45-6.

15
Said by me among others. This is the peril of thinking that the middle classes represented everyman (and woman).

16
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 238.

17
Ibid., p. 239.

18
Stanley Chapman, ‘The Innovating Entrepreneurs in the British Ready-Made Clothing Industry’,
Textile History
, 24, 1 (1993), p. 5.

19
A Visit to the Bazaar
(London, J. Harris, 1818), pp. 72-3.

20
Katrina Honeyman,
Well Suited: A History of the Leeds Clothing Industry, 1850-1990
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2000), pp. 10-11.

21
Daniel Kirwan,
Palace and Hovel, or, Phases of London Life
(Hartford, Conn., Belknap & Bliss, 1871), p. 91; cited in Breward,
Hidden Consumer
, p. 125.

22
Kirwan,
Palace and Hovel
, p. 140; cited in Breward,
Hidden Consumer
, p. 123.

23
George Augustus Sala,
Twice Round the Clock; or, the Hours of the Day and Night in London
(London, Houlston & Wright, 1859), pp. 83-6.

24
Official Catalogue
, vol. 2, section 3, sub-section 20, entry 135a, p. 585.

25
Norah Waugh,
The Cut of Men’s Clothes, 1600-1900
(New York, Theatre Arts Books, 1964), p. 131.

26
Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 123.

27
Honeyman,
Well Suited
, p. 15.

28
Ibid., pp. 12-14.

29
Ibid., pp. 21-2.

30
Don Bissell,
The First Conglomerate: 45 Years of the Singer Sewing Machine Company
(Brunswick, Me., Audenreed, 1999), pp. 21, 25.

31
Ibid., pp. 26-7.

32
Levitt,
Victorians Unbuttoned
, p. 15.

33
Honeyman,
Well Suited
, p. 14.

34
Sarah Levitt, ‘Manchester Mackintoshes: A History of the Rubberized Garment Trade in Manchester’,
Textile History
, 17, 1 (1986), pp. 51-2.

35
Chapman, ‘The Innovating Entrepreneurs’,
Textile History
, 24, 1 (1993), p. 10.

36
Thomas Hancock,
Personal narrative of the original and progress of the caoutchouc or india rubber manufacture in England
([no publisher or place of publication], 1857), p. 55; cited in Levitt, ‘Manchester Mackintoshes’,
Textile History
, 17, 1 (1986), p. 52.

37
Cited in ibid., p. 53.

38
George Augustus Sala,
Gaslight and Daylight, with Some London Scenes they Shine Upon
(London, Chapman & Hall, 1859), p. 59.

39
Levitt,
Victorians Unbuttoned
, p. 53.

40
Cited in G. B. Sutton, ‘The Marketing of Ready Made Footwear in the Nineteenth Century: A Study of the Firm of C. & J. Clark’,
Business History
, 6, 2 (1964), pp. 94-5.