Authors: Deborah Madison

This Can't Be Tofu! (13 page)

1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil

1 large onion

2 large carrots

2 celery ribs, including a few leaves

4 mushrooms

1 bunch scallions, including half of the greens

8 garlic cloves, smashed

1 tablespoon tomato paste

8 parsley sprigs with stems

6 thyme sprigs or teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon peppercorns

2 quarts cold water

Scrub the vegetables and chop them roughly into 1 inch chunks. Heat the oil in a soup pot. Add the vegetables and herbs and cook over high heat 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. The more color they get, the richer the flavor of the stock. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes. Strain.

Vegetable Stock for Asian Dishes

MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS

5 fresh or dried shiitake mushrooms

1 bunch scallions, including the greens

1 onion or leek, thinly sliced (include the leek root, well washed)

3 large carrots, thinly sliced

½ cup cilantro stems and leaves

2 slices ginger

6 garlic cloves

One 6-inch piece kombu (optional)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon mirin (rice wine)

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

8 cups cold water

Combine all the ingredients in a pot and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes. Strain, pressing out the liquid from the vegetables.

Mushroom-Kombu Stock

MAKES 4 CUPS

Use this stock as a base for miso soups or as a broth to pour over noodles and tofu
.

5 cups water

One 6-inch piece kombu

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

4 scallions, including the roots and greens

1 small carrot, thinly sliced

¼ cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

2 tablespoons mirin (rice wine)

Salt

1.
Combine the water, kombu, mushrooms, scallions, and carrot in a soup pot. Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes. Remove the kombu and set it aside to dry. You can use it again.

2.
Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, mirin, and salt to taste. Simmer 10 minutes more. Remove the mushrooms and set aside, then strain. Taste and add more salt or soy, if needed. Discard the stems of the mushrooms and reserve the caps to use in miso soup or in another dish.

STIR-FRYING AND SAUTÈING
are two methods that utilize high heat and rapid movement of the ingredients. Because tofu is so delicate, I nearly always fry, brown, or simmer it first so that it won’t disintegrate during this lively cooking action. Precooking firms the proteins in the tofu, rendering it a little less prone to fall apart. And as a side benefit, when browned, the flavor of both the tofu and attendant seasonings is likely to be heightened.

Stir-fried tofu, in combination with a vegetable or several vegetables, as in the Lohans’ or Buddha’s feast, is a common menu item in Chinese restaurants. You’ve undoubtedly encountered it before and may even have a number of recipes for tofu stir-fries in your repertoire, or in cookbooks that you own. Ginger and garlic are nearly always at the base of a stir-fry, but there are other approaches to take when it comes to seasoning stir-fried or sautéed tofu. Southeast Asian ingredients, such as tamarind, lemongrass, and lime; Indian spices, such as cumin and turmeric; and Western herbs, such as parsley and marjoram, are all effective flavoring agents. This selection is intended to expand your seasoning horizons.

Sautéed Asparagus with Curried Tofu and Tomatoes

SERVES 3 OR 4

A coating of turmeric-laced curry turns the tofu from bright white to a rich, golden yellow. The tofu is also dusted with salt and sugar, then shallow-fried until it becomes crisp on the outside. The asparagus retains some of its crunch as well. Green beans, tipped and tailed, can be used in place of the asparagus
.

The Tofu

1 carton firm tofu

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon curry powder

¼ teaspoon turmeric

2 tablespoons, plus 2 teaspoons vegetable oil

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons roasted ground cumin seeds

1 onion, finely diced

½ pound slender asparagus, tough ends trimmed, cut diagonally into 3-inch lengths

Several pinches red pepper flakes

4 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped

3 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1.
Dice the tofu into pieces about the size of a sugar cube. Simmer in 6 cups salted water for 2 minutes, then remove with a strainer and place on paper towels. Wick the surface with another paper towel, then toss the cubes with ½ teaspoon salt, some pepper, the sugar, and curry powder.

2.
Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a wide skillet, add the tofu, and sauté over medium-high heat until golden, but still tender, about 10 minutes in all. Turn the tofu so that all the surfaces are colored. Remove to a plate, cover to keep warm, and return the pan to the heat and adjust the heat to medium.

3.
Add the 2 teaspoons oil. When hot, add the garlic, 1½ teaspoons of the cumin, and the onion. Cook until the onion is translucent, then raise the heat to high. As soon as the pan feels hot, add the asparagus, pepper flakes, and a pinch or two of salt. Sauté just until the asparagus is bright green and tender, but not limp, about 5 minutes or so, the exact time depending on the size. Add the tomatoes and tofu, and cook about 1 minute more. Turn off the heat and add the cilantro and remaining cumin.

4.
Slide everything onto a platter (use a bright blue one if you can) and serve immediately.

Golden Tofu Sauté with Peppers, Onions, and Tomatoes

SERVES 4

An Indian recipe using paneer, a delicate white cheese, is the inspiration for this attractive dish. Everything is cut into large pieces to give the dish a great bold look. The tofu is drained, tossed in a dry marinade of curry powder and lime, then fried until crisp on the outside, but tender inside
.

The Tofu

1 carton firm tofu, drained

1 teaspoon curry powder

Juice of 1 lime

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 large onion, cut into ½-inch wedges

1 green pepper, diced into large squares

1 heaping tablespoon chopped garlic

1 heaping tablespoon chopped ginger

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons ground coriander

⅛ teaspoon turmeric

4 Roma tomatoes, cut into chunks

3 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1.
Drain the tofu, cut it into ¾-inch cubes, and blot well with paper towels. Place the tofu in a large bowl and gently toss with the curry powder, half the lime juice, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

2.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a nonstick skillet, add the tofu, and cook over medium-high heat, turning occasionally until golden on all the surfaces, about 4 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the remaining lime juice and set aside.

3.
Heat the remaining oil in a large, nonstick skillet with the cumin seeds. When hot, add the onion and sauté over high heat until lightly browned and beginning to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the green pepper, garlic, ginger, pepper flakes, coriander, and turmeric. Cook several minutes more, or until the peppers have softened a little. Season with 1 teaspoon salt. (Keep your eye on the garlic—you don’t want it to burn. If the pan seems dangerously dry or hot, add ½ cup water and give the pan a swirl. Not only will this prevent burning, it will make a little sauce as well. You can continue adding water as needed.)

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