Read This Can't Be Tofu! Online
Authors: Deborah Madison
This Can't Be Tofu! (5 page)
Spice Rub
3 tablespoons paprika
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons dry mustard
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or ground chipotle chile
•
Approximately ½ cup barbecue sauce
1.
Press the tofu so that the slices are quite dry.
Press the tofu so that the slices are quite dry.
2.
Melt the butter and stir in the Worcestershire sauce. Give it a stir, then brush it over the tofu, covering both sides.
Melt the butter and stir in the Worcestershire sauce. Give it a stir, then brush it over the tofu, covering both sides.
3.
Combine the ingredients for the rub and sprinkle them over the sauced tofu. Don’t be tempted to make this too thick or it won’t taste good in the end.
Combine the ingredients for the rub and sprinkle them over the sauced tofu. Don’t be tempted to make this too thick or it won’t taste good in the end.
4.
Scatter 2 tablespoons wood chips in the bottom of a stovetop smoker. Lightly oil the rack and place the tofu on it. Close the top and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Open, brush tops of the tofu generously with barbecue sauce, and cook 15 minutes more. When done the tofu should be firm but offer a little resistance when pressed. Don’t let it get hard, but if it still feels just a little too soft, brush it once more with barbecue sauce and cook 10 to 15 minutes longer, or until done.
Scatter 2 tablespoons wood chips in the bottom of a stovetop smoker. Lightly oil the rack and place the tofu on it. Close the top and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Open, brush tops of the tofu generously with barbecue sauce, and cook 15 minutes more. When done the tofu should be firm but offer a little resistance when pressed. Don’t let it get hard, but if it still feels just a little too soft, brush it once more with barbecue sauce and cook 10 to 15 minutes longer, or until done.
Grilled, Braised, or
Broiled Tofu with Tamarind Barbecue Sauce
Broiled Tofu with Tamarind Barbecue Sauce
SERVES 3 TO 4
Regardless of which cooking method you choose, you’ll have the best results if you fry the tofu first—it will have a better texture, appearance, and flavor. Extra-firm tofu can withstand the slightly rougher handling on the grill, but the firm tofu will work, too. Since there’s likely to be extra sauce, you can double the amount of tofu
.
.
1 or 2 cartons firm or extra-firm tofu, drained
1 to 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
•
Tamarind Barbecue Sauce
⅓ cup brown sugar
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon strong red wine vinegar
½ cup water or chicken stock
½ cup diced fresh tomatoes or canned diced tomatoes in puree
1 teaspoon hot mustard
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
1 tablespoon roasted peanut oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1.
Cut the tofu crosswise or lengthwise into slabs about ½ inch thick or a bit less. Set on paper toweling while you mix together the ingredients for the sauce.
Cut the tofu crosswise or lengthwise into slabs about ½ inch thick or a bit less. Set on paper toweling while you mix together the ingredients for the sauce.
2.
Heat a nonstick or cast-iron skillet and add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. When hot, add the tofu and fry until golden. Turn, adding more oil to the pan if needed, and fry on the second side. Turn off the heat.
Heat a nonstick or cast-iron skillet and add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. When hot, add the tofu and fry until golden. Turn, adding more oil to the pan if needed, and fry on the second side. Turn off the heat.
3.
Combine the sauce ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and stir to dissolve the tamarind paste. Boil until thickened and the surface is covered with bubbles, 4 to 5 minutes.
Combine the sauce ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and stir to dissolve the tamarind paste. Boil until thickened and the surface is covered with bubbles, 4 to 5 minutes.
To Grill:
Brush the tofu with the marinade. Make a fire or preheat the grill, making sure that the grill rack is very clean. Brush or spray it with oil. Place the tofu on the grill and cook without turning until browned, about 5 minutes, depending on the heat of the fire (you may have to pick up a corner and check). Turn the tofu 45 degrees and cook a few minutes more to get a nice set of grill marks. As the tofu cooks, continue to brush the sauce over it to keep it moist. Heat any extra marinade and serve it on the side.
Brush the tofu with the marinade. Make a fire or preheat the grill, making sure that the grill rack is very clean. Brush or spray it with oil. Place the tofu on the grill and cook without turning until browned, about 5 minutes, depending on the heat of the fire (you may have to pick up a corner and check). Turn the tofu 45 degrees and cook a few minutes more to get a nice set of grill marks. As the tofu cooks, continue to brush the sauce over it to keep it moist. Heat any extra marinade and serve it on the side.
To Broil:
Preheat the broiler and brush the fried tofu very generously with the sauce. You won’t need to use it all. Broil about 5 inches from the heat. When bubbly and reduced, turn the tofu, brush it again with sauce, and broil the second side. Heat the extra sauce and serve it with the tofu and/or an accompaniment.
Preheat the broiler and brush the fried tofu very generously with the sauce. You won’t need to use it all. Broil about 5 inches from the heat. When bubbly and reduced, turn the tofu, brush it again with sauce, and broil the second side. Heat the extra sauce and serve it with the tofu and/or an accompaniment.
To Braise:
Once the tofu is golden, add half the marinade and let it cook over medium-high heat, sloshing it over the tofu, until well reduced and the tofu is burnished but not dry, about 4 to 5 minutes.
Once the tofu is golden, add half the marinade and let it cook over medium-high heat, sloshing it over the tofu, until well reduced and the tofu is burnished but not dry, about 4 to 5 minutes.
THE SECRET FOR MAKING TOFU WORK
as an appetizer is to make dishes with intense flavors and interesting textures. Using dipping sauces, deep frying, having crunchy coatings of sesame seeds or pepper, and allying tofu with lively ingredients, such as ginger, all contribute to making successful
appetizers that can be eaten with the fingers or from a toothpick.
Frying isn’t always a must, however. If you enjoy the delicate flavor of fresh, soft tofu, there are some other options, such as serving it chilled with little bowls of scallions, soy sauce, and grated ginger, a remarkably simple dish and one that’s more typically Japanese. One appetizer I thoroughly enjoy is
hiya-yakko
—cubes of impeccably fresh tofu served in a bowl of water and ice and accompanied by a very lively dipping sauce. This is utterly cool and soothing on a hot August evening.
MAKES 12 TO 15 PLUMP ROLLS
Who doesn’t like crisp spring rolls? Serve these with little bowls of hot mustard for dipping
.
.
1 small napa cabbage
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 pieces commercial deep-fried tofu (optional)
1 box extra-firm silken tofu or ½ carton soft tofu
2 teaspoons roasted peanut oil
¼ cup chopped scallions, including half of the greens
½ pound fresh mushrooms, brown, white, or shiitake, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 heaping tablespoons minced ginger
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
½ teaspoon ground Szechuan peppercorns
1 tablespoon soy sauce
¼ cup chopped cilantro, plus cilantro sprigs for garnish
15 egg roll wrappers
2 cups peanut oil, for frying
1.
Quarter the cabbage lengthwise, then slice it crosswise into thin strips. Measure 5 cups, place in a colander, and sprinkle lightly with salt. Toss and set aside.
Quarter the cabbage lengthwise, then slice it crosswise into thin strips. Measure 5 cups, place in a colander, and sprinkle lightly with salt. Toss and set aside.
2.
Boil several cups of water. Pour half over the deep-fried tofu, if using, to rid it of the extra oil. Pour just enough to cover the dried mushrooms and let steep for 15 minutes. Squeeze them dry, remove and discard the stems, and thinly slice the caps.
Boil several cups of water. Pour half over the deep-fried tofu, if using, to rid it of the extra oil. Pour just enough to cover the dried mushrooms and let steep for 15 minutes. Squeeze them dry, remove and discard the stems, and thinly slice the caps.
3.
Cut the fried tofu into slivers and the fresh tofu into tiny cubes. Bring 1 quart water to a boil in a 10 to 12 inch skillet, add 1 teaspoon salt, then lower the heat to a simmer. Carefully add the fresh tofu and cook for 2 minutes. Remove and set on a cloth towel to drain.
Cut the fried tofu into slivers and the fresh tofu into tiny cubes. Bring 1 quart water to a boil in a 10 to 12 inch skillet, add 1 teaspoon salt, then lower the heat to a simmer. Carefully add the fresh tofu and cook for 2 minutes. Remove and set on a cloth towel to drain.
4.
Heat the oil in a wok or nonstick skillet. When hot, add the scallions and fresh and dried mushrooms. Sauté quickly over brisk heat for 1 minute, then scrape the mixture into a bowl. Squeeze the moisture out of the cabbage and add it to the scallion mixture along with the remaining ingredients. Taste, adjust salt, add pepper, and make sure the seasonings are bright and lively.
Heat the oil in a wok or nonstick skillet. When hot, add the scallions and fresh and dried mushrooms. Sauté quickly over brisk heat for 1 minute, then scrape the mixture into a bowl. Squeeze the moisture out of the cabbage and add it to the scallion mixture along with the remaining ingredients. Taste, adjust salt, add pepper, and make sure the seasonings are bright and lively.
5.
Lay an egg roll wrapper on the counter facing you on the diagonal. Place about 3 tablespoons filling in the center. Brush a strip of water around the edges, then fold the bottom up, the sides over, and roll. Repeat until all the filling is used.
Lay an egg roll wrapper on the counter facing you on the diagonal. Place about 3 tablespoons filling in the center. Brush a strip of water around the edges, then fold the bottom up, the sides over, and roll. Repeat until all the filling is used.
6.
Heat 2 cups peanut oil in a wok or skillet. When hot enough to sizzle a corner of a wrapper, add a roll and fry, turning once, until golden and crisp. Remove to drain on a paper towel and repeat until all are done. Cut them in half on the diagonal, arrange on a platter, and garnish with long sprigs of cilantro. Serve with hot mustard for dipping.
Napa Cabbage Rolls with Gingered Tofu and Peanut MinceHeat 2 cups peanut oil in a wok or skillet. When hot enough to sizzle a corner of a wrapper, add a roll and fry, turning once, until golden and crisp. Remove to drain on a paper towel and repeat until all are done. Cut them in half on the diagonal, arrange on a platter, and garnish with long sprigs of cilantro. Serve with hot mustard for dipping.
MAKES ABOUT 25 PACKETS
Pale and pretty napa cabbage leaves are rolled around peanut-studded, gingered tofu and served as appetizers. Vietnamese rice papers could also be used as wrappers. Serve with a peanut sauce, either a commercial sauce or
this recipe
, diluted with a little water to dipping consistency
.
this recipe
, diluted with a little water to dipping consistency
.
1.
Prepare the gingered tofu and peanut mince and let it cool.
Prepare the gingered tofu and peanut mince and let it cool.
2.
Remove the tough stem ends from the napa cabbage by cutting out a “V” shape. Dip the leaves, a few at a time, into boiling water for 30 seconds, then spread them on a clean kitchen towel to dry.
Remove the tough stem ends from the napa cabbage by cutting out a “V” shape. Dip the leaves, a few at a time, into boiling water for 30 seconds, then spread them on a clean kitchen towel to dry.
3.
Mound 1 tablespoon of the filling at the broadest part of each leaf, then fold over the sides and roll, tucking in the sides as you go. Arrange on a serving plate, seam side down, with bowls of peanut sauce for dipping.
Mound 1 tablespoon of the filling at the broadest part of each leaf, then fold over the sides and roll, tucking in the sides as you go. Arrange on a serving plate, seam side down, with bowls of peanut sauce for dipping.
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