The Silent Country (31 page)

Eddie woke and stretched. ‘Are we there yet?’ He looked out the window. ‘Veronica, why don’t we take a couple of shots of this. If you lose the road, the landscape is just as it was when your group drove through.’

‘Good idea. I’d like to stretch my legs, anyway.’

The turn off to Brolga Springs was well marked and the dirt road, suitable for small tour buses, was quite different from the road Colin had described. The country was rugged with flat-top ochre jump ups and dark green gorges where a hint of a waterfall glinted. They glimpsed heavy-set Brahman cattle among trees to the side of the road and then they spotted the first fence. Soon there was a gate marked by two carved wooden brolgas supporting a tree trunk arch with the words ‘Brolga Springs’ burned into it. Then they passed landscaped trees and bushes, artfully placed boulders and parked by a fence was an ancient bull catcher that looked as though it had been gored and rolled many times over.

‘I bet visitors take their picture in that old thing,’ remarked Eddie.

‘Don’t think it’s driveable anymore, but it’s the real deal,’ said Jamie. ‘Tourists can buy gear at the store, hats, boots, croc-teeth hatbands and belts, souvenirs, if they’re looking for that sort of thing.’

They passed neat wooden signs pointing to the homestead, the bunkhouse, the Sunset Bar and barbecue, toilets and ‘The Springs Dining Room’. Jamie swung past the gravel parking lot filled with dusty four-wheel drives, campervans and a nine-person troop carrier and stopped in front of a log building that was marked ‘Reception and Office’.

‘It’s quite elaborate,’ said Veronica, slightly disappointed. The building like all the others looked new and not like the old-style homestead and cattle station she’d imagined.

Jamie sensed her reaction. ‘There’s more to it than this. Like I said, once you open to tourists you have to cater for them.’

Behind the reception desk they were greeted by an
attractive Aboriginal girl in a black and white uniform with a red insignia of a brolga with ‘Brolga Springs’ printed underneath it. An Aboriginal man in a matching T-shirt and black pants could be seen at a computer in the office behind her.

‘Hello. You must be Miss Anderson. Hi, Jamie. And you’re Eddie Jarman?’

‘That’s right. Are Rick or Vicki Hodge about?’ asked Veronica.

‘They’re out of contact at present. They suggested that you get comfortable in your accommodation and they’ll meet you later at the Sunset Bar for a drink. But if there’s anything you want to do in the meantime, like going to the lagoon, or horseriding.’ She handed them a brochure. ‘This might give you a few ideas.’

‘Where are we staying?’ asked Eddie.

‘We have you in the Castle Cabins or, if you prefer, the Castle Tents are very comfortable. They face the river.’

‘What river is that?’ asked Eddie.

The girl smiled. ‘It’s a creek really, though it can get pretty full in the wet. Comes down from the gorge. Rick has it stocked with fish. There are canoes if you want to go for a paddle and a fish.’

‘Thanks but it’s a bit hot for me right now. Think I’ll wait for it to get cooler before I walk around and get the feel for the place,’ said Veronica.

‘Very well. I’ll have one of the boys drive you over to your cabin and he’ll be happy to take you in the buggy for a look around.’ She pointed to one side where several all-terrain vehicles, like golf buggies with large wheels, were parked.

‘I have a few things to do. Shall we meet round five-thirty in the bar?’ suggested Jamie.

‘Sounds good. Am I taking the car with me?’ asked Eddie.

‘Yes, follow Roly in the buggy. You can park by the cabin and walk or take one of the buggies further afield. There’s a pool, a hot-spring bathing area, picnic place, all kinds of facilities.’

‘They’ve thought of everything,’ said Eddie.

Veronica’s cabin was airy with large push-out shutters, all fly screened, a polished wood floor and a tiny verandah with a view towards a distant lagoon. There was a small shower and toilet, a comfortable bed with a mosquito net above it and a large fan in the middle of the room. It was simply but tastefully furnished with no unnecessary frills. She splashed water on her face, took off her shoes and sat on the bed.

What would Colin make of this she wondered? It sure beat the rough camping Marta and Helen must have endured on their trip here. But how unspoiled it must have been then. She wondered if the original homestead was still standing. All the buildings she’d seen so far looked to be only a few years old.

Roly appeared in the buggy at three pm as she’d arranged and she grabbed her hat, sunglasses and camera, and got in beside him.

‘Okay, give me the tour,’ said Veronica.

The young Aborigine looked confused. ‘We have many tours . . .’

‘No, I meant just drive me around. I’ll take one of the tours tomorrow. Which do you recommend?’

‘Oh, we have the bush tucker tour, the ladies like that one. As well as finding bush foods you can learn how to make dilly bags or baskets and find out about bush medicine. There’s fishing, riding, canoeing, swimming in the springs and hiking up the gorge to see the rock art. The men like to go with the stockmen when they bring in cattle, or get a killer – a beast that they butcher for station meat. A lot to do here.’

‘That certainly sounds like a full schedule. How long have you been here?’ asked Veronica.

‘About nine months. I’m in the training program. There’s a term of twelve weeks and a TAFE instructor comes out here to teach us how to look after the tourists.’

‘Where are you from?’

‘I was in Darwin, but I originally come from Katherine. This is my first job,’ he added proudly.

Roly looked to be around nineteen or twenty. ‘What were you doing before this?’ asked Veronica.

‘Ah, nothing much. Didn’t finish high school and just hung around. Then I met Rick and he talked me and some other blokes into doing this course.’

‘Do you like this? Do you see yourself moving up in hospitality or tourism?’

He shook his head. ‘More money in the mining jobs. Reckon I might head out that way when I can.’

‘Oh, I see,’ said Veronica. ‘I guess its not too exciting driving the buggy around and looking after visitors.’

He shrugged. ‘No, it’s okay. The rules are strict here. No drinking on the station, no cards, y’know, gambling. Got to look clean all the time. And the money is put in the bank for you.’

‘Well, that’s not a bad thing. Will you finish your program here?’

He gave her a huge and disarming smile. ‘Yep. Sure. But you can make a lot more money in mining.’

There were around thirty people in the bar when Veronica went in at sunset after her tour of the complex with Roly. She was surrounded by foreign accents, young backpackers and older retirees. Eddie was at the bar with a couple she assumed to be Rick and Vicki Hodge. Rick was dressed in a blue shirt embroidered with the Brolga Springs logo
and mud-stained moleskin pants. Vicki was in a simple cotton dress but had added sparkly earrings.

Vicki turned to Veronica and with a smile said, ‘Welcome. Great to meet you. I’m Vicki Hodge. Been hearing all about you from Eddie. And we’re big fans of
Our Country
. This is Rick.’

Rick shook her hand with a firm calloused grip and his big smile extended to his warm blue eyes. ‘’Scuse my outfit, still on duty. Been out with a group of visitors at the gorge. Glad you got here. We’re keen to help you any way we can. Now, a drink?’

‘A white wine please. How was your afternoon, Eddie?’

‘Amazing. Two of the trainees took me out to get dinner.’

As everyone laughed, Veronica raised an eyebrow. ‘You took the camera of course?’

‘Of course.’ Eddie downed his beer and pushed it towards the bartender for a refill. The pretty girl, a backpacker, thought Veronica, refilled it quickly.

‘Where’s Jamie?’ she asked.

‘Dunno. Haven’t seen him,’ said Eddie. ‘He’s in one of the tents. Probably crashed.’

‘No, he’s around, he’ll be here soon,’ said Vicki. ‘Now, tell us, how can we help with your show? Eddie says you’re here about the old days but you’re interested in what we’re doing here today. Of course, we’re keen to show that too,’ said Vicki candidly. ‘I mean, we always like publicity but I know your show isn’t into travel fluff stuff. But we’d really like to promote our indigenous program.’

‘No, the second. Indeed. It’s nice to have a positive story,’ said Veronica. ‘Is this the first group to go through the program?’

‘Yes. It’s taken a while to get it up and running. Lots of reasons,’ said Rick. ‘It’s not one of those things you can
just push out there and let it run on its own. Needs constant supervision, guidance, hand holding and adjusting to cultural issues.’

‘And lack of them,’ added Vicki. ‘Many of these kids have never had any serious connection with their culture. Been brought up in the towns, because they lost contact with the land when their families were broken up. Often they find it hard to fit into both worlds, neither of which they know properly.’

‘Listen, I’m going to go and clean up. We thought we’d throw some steaks on the barbie at our joint as we’re slightly away from all this. We have two little kids. Suit you guys?’ said Rick.

‘Wonderful,’ sighed Veronica who could see a country and western band setting up in the outdoor area.

‘Have another drink on the house and I’ll get one of the lads to fetch you,’ said Vicki.

Veronica watched the two of them stop and chat to a customer, speak quietly to a staff member, talk to the chef putting food on the buffet, check the bar and make a quiet exit.

Eddie had watched them leave also. ‘Reckon this’d be a twenty-four seven job for those guys.’

‘Yeah. This isn’t quite what I expected.’

Eddie took a swig of his beer, eyeing the blonde backpacker at the end of the bar. ‘Been fifty-plus years, Vee. ‘’Course it’s going to change.’

The use of her pet family nickname unsettled her for a moment. ‘God, what I’d give to talk to Topov, to all of them, about their time here, brief as it was. Anyway, I hope Jamie comes soon. I want to work out what we do tomorrow. So what’d you shoot this afternoon?’

Eddie chuckled. ‘Two trainees. Reckon they’d be more at home in a video games parlour. But there was an old fella, a local elder, who knew the ropes, trying to
get them to hunt down a steer. The trainees were scared stiff. They had rifles but I was more worried about them shooting each other, or us, rather than the bloody beast. The old man finally brought it down. Bloody magnificent. They strung it up from a tree branch and he showed them how to butcher it. The boys were better with a knife than a gun.’

‘That’s not our dinner is it?’ said Veronica.

‘Nope. Meat needs to be hung a bit longer than that.’

One of the backpackers came up and parked herself beside Eddie and introduced herself with a smile. ‘I am Joseline. I like very much your country.’

Veronica tapped Eddie on the shoulder. ‘We’re expected for dinner.’

‘Hey, one drink and I’ll be over. Get one of the kids to take you. I’ll be there in twenty minutes.’

Veronica stared at Eddie, a hundred flashbacks buzzing through her mind. ‘Eddie, we are working. I want you over at Rick’s place. Make whatever arrangements you want for after dinner, but you will be there, understood?’ She turned to the pretty blonde and lifted her finger. ‘He is working and he will walk out of here now. Okay?’

The girl lifted her shoulders. ‘I do not care. Whatever he wishes.’

‘No. It’s not what he wishes. It’s what I am telling him. I am his boss.’ Veronica turned on her heel and walked out of the bar as the blonde girl pretended to quiver.

‘She is scary boss.’

‘Yeah. She is.’ Eddie finished his beer. ‘See you back here at closing time.’

‘Maybe,’ said the blonde.

‘Whatever,’ sighed Eddie, hurrying after Veronica.

Rick and Vicki’s house was lit with soft lights and candles. The low hum of the generator powering the station houses could be heard on the night air. It was a
comfortable family home with a pile of shoes and boots at the door, along with jackets and hats on a rack. A country music CD was playing and a small girl was rolling on a sofa with a puppy. A boy, about seven, got up and came to greet them.

‘Hello. I’m Toby. Mum said to come out to the patio.’

Rick, Vicki, Jamie and another young woman were gathered at the barbecue. Vicki handed Veronica a glass of white wine and gave Eddie a beer.

‘This is Sandra, she’s working with us as a nanny and cook for a year. A change from life in Sydney.’

Sandra smiled. ‘I sometimes think Toby and Natalie look after me. Nice to meet you.’

‘We’re teaching her to ride,’ explained Toby.

‘I’d like to learn properly too, one day. There must be some fantastic places to ride around here,’ said Veronica.

‘There certainly are,’ said Rick. ‘You could go out early in the morning. There’s a quiet old stockhorse you could use.’

‘Oh. I’m not sure,’ said Veronica. ‘What about you, Eddie? We’d need to take the camera.’

‘I’m happy to go with you,’ said Jamie. ‘Eddie could meet us at the gorge pool. Roly can drive you up, Eddie. I’ll take Veronica a different way by horse. You’ll both get a good feel for the place. Then I thought you might like to see the original homestead,’ he said. ‘Up to you, I’m sure you both have ideas.’