Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage (23 page)

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) light corn syrup

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) cold water

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) finely powdered milk 2 Tbsp. (30 ml) red wine

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Except for the ground duck and ground bacon, measure the seasoning and other ingredients into a large mixing bowl, and mix well. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.

2. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Chill this sausage paste while the sausage stuffer and casings are being prepared.

3. Stuff the sausage paste into the casings, and twist into links. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

4. Sausages that will not be eaten within two days should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

It is suggested that the links be sautéed in a small amount of vegetable oil or grilled. Please see Chapter 6 for detailed cooking instructions.

Duck Soup

It takes only a little work to make a very delicious and unique soup using the bones left after carving the meat from them.

INGREDIENTS

duck bones

1 each: duck heart, gizzard, and neck

1½ quarts (1½ liters) water

4 green onions, roughly chopped

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) sherry or 
shao hsing
 (optional) ¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) ginger powder (optional) 5 bouillon cubes, chicken flavor

1. 
 Put all the ingredients in a pot, and simmer about one hour.

2. 
 Strain the soup into another pot. (There will be scum on the sides of the first pot.) If froth or scum is on the surface, skim it off. Save the heart, gizzard, and neck to use as a snack—or mince this meat and add it to the strained broth. Discard the bones and the green onions.

3. 
 Add 1 cup (240 ml) of very thinly sliced celery to the broth, and simmer a few minutes until the celery is barely tender. If desired, the soup may be thickened with 1 tablespoon of cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons of water; add the cornstarch and water mixture to the soup slowly while stirring. Boil gently for one minute. Check the seasoning. Serve.

English Bangers

This sausage is stuffed in hog casings, and it is very popular in the United Kingdom. The special feature of this sausage is the use of breadcrumbs as one of the main ingredients. The breadcrumbs retain moisture, and they cause a significant amount of steam to be generated in the sausage when it is cooked. The pressure generated by the steam is often enough to make the sausages rupture or explode; they are called bangers for this reason.

You may use the prepared, unseasoned breadcrumbs available in all grocery stores in the United States, the coarse Japanese-style breadcrumbs available in Asian food stores and even in common grocery stores (known as 
panko
), or you may make your own breadcrumbs by raking dried bread with the tines of a fork. I prefer 
panko
, the Japanese-style breadcrumbs. Depending on the kind and amount of breadcrumbs you use, you may have to adjust the moisture content of the stuffing mixture.

Powdered skim milk is not used in this formula. It is not required because the breadcrumbs function to retain moisture and plump the sausage links. Pork broth is often used in bangers. However, I find that chicken consommé powder mixed with water is more convenient, and it tastes just as good.

THE CASINGS

Prepare 8 feet (240 cm) of hog casings. Rinse the casings, and soak them in water overnight. Rinse them again, and soak in warm water for a few minutes before using.

MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of pork shoulder butt that contains about 20 percent fat. Cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the meat, and chill the meat grinder and the sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

OTHER INGREDIENTS AND SEASONINGS

1½ tsp. (7.5 ml) chicken consommé powder

1 tsp. (5 ml) salt

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) black pepper, finely ground

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) sage—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) ginger powder

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) mace

1 egg

¾ cup (180 ml) dry breadcrumbs, 
not
 packed in the cup

½ cup (120 ml) cold water

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the well-chilled pork with a medium or coarse plate. A coarse plate will give the sausage a country-style bite texture. Refrigerate the ground meat for about 30 minutes.

2. In a large mixing bowl, blend the breadcrumbs, chicken consommé powder, water, and egg. Mix well, and set aside one minute. Add the seasoning ingredients and mix again. Place in the freezer to cool rapidly.

3. Add the chilled ground meat to the egg-and-seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Chill this sausage paste while the sausage stuffer and casings are being prepared.

4. Stuff the sausage paste into the casings, and twist into 5-inch (13 cm) links. Because the high water content of the sausage will create internal steam pressure, it is best to stuff the casings a little more loosely than normal. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

5. Sausages that will not be eaten within one day should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

Sauté or grill the links. Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

French Country Sausage

The French use a blend of four spices to season various dishes. It is even used in some sausage formulations. They call it 
quatre épices
, and it is used in this French Country Sausage. Quatre épices can be purchased, but it is very easy to blend it in your own kitchen; please see Appendix 1 for blending instructions and additional information.

THE CASING

Patties or natural casings are the best for French Country Sausage. If 24 to 26 mm (1 in. to 1
¹
⁄16 in.) sheep casing is to be used, prepare about 14 feet (420 cm) of casing. If small-diameter hog casing will be used, prepare 7 feet (210 cm). Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again, and soak in warm water a few minutes before using.

MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of pork shoulder butt that contains about 20 percent fat, or use 2 lbs. (910 g) of lean pork and ½ lb. (225 g) of back fat; cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the meat, and put the meat grinder in the refrigerator. If the sausage stuffer will be used, refrigerate it, as well.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

2 tsp. (10 ml) parsley, dried

1 tsp. (5 ml) black pepper ½ tsp. (2.5 ml) thyme

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) quatre épices (see Appendix 1)—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) nutmeg

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) white wine

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the pork with a medium plate, and refrigerate it for 30 minutes.

2. Except for the ground pork, mix the seasoning and other ingredients in a 5-quart (5 liter) mixing bowl. Refrigerate this seasoning mixture for about 15 minutes.

3. Blend the meat and the seasoning well by kneading for about three minutes. Make patties, or stuff the sausage into sheep or hog casings.

4. Refrigerate the sausage that will be eaten within the next two days, and freeze the remainder.

Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

French Garlic Sausage

Garlic and black pepper are the predominant seasonings in this sausage, but other seasonings—including the brandy or sherry—make a decided contribution to the flavor.

THE CASING

Small natural casings are the best for French Garlic Sausage. If 24 to 26 mm (1 in. to 1
¹
⁄16 in.) sheep casing is to be used, prepare about 14 feet (420 cm) of casing. If small-diameter hog casing will be used, prepare 7 feet (210 cm). Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again, and soak in warm water a few minutes before using.

MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of pork shoulder butt that contains about 20 percent fat, or use 2 lbs. (910 g) of lean pork and ½ lb. (225 g) of back fat; cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the meat, and put the meat grinder in the refrigerator. If the sausage stuffer will be used, refrigerate it, as well.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) black pepper, coarse grind

2 tsp. (10 ml) garlic, minced

1 tsp. (5 ml) nutmeg ¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) thyme

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) ginger powder ¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) allspice

2 eggs, large

3 Tbsp. (45 ml) brandy or sherry

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the pork with a medium plate, and refrigerate it for 30 minutes.

2.
 
Except for the ground pork, mix the seasoning and other ingredients in a 5-quart (5 liter) mixing bowl. Refrigerate this seasoning mixture for about 15 minutes.

3. Blend the meat and the seasoning well by kneading for about three minutes. Stuff the sausage into sheep or hog casings.

4. Refrigerate the sausage that will be eaten within the next two days, and freeze the remainder.

Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

Fresh Bratwurst

Bratwurst is one of the most popular sausages in North America, and it is available in almost all grocery stores. In the German language, 
brat
 means 
roast
 or 
bake,
 but this sausage is most often grilled or sautéed. Serve it between two halves of a roll—exactly like a hotdog. Garnish it with horseradish mustard, chopped onions, and dill pickle sticks. Served with cold beer, this will be an unforgettable meal.

CASINGS

Rinse 7 feet (210 cm) of small-diameter hog casing, and refrigerate it, in water, overnight. Rinse again in warm water before using.

THE MEAT FOR 2
¹
⁄2 LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare the meats listed below; cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes and refrigerate. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

• 1½ lbs. (680 g) of lean pork and 
¹
⁄
2
 lb. (225 g) of back fat—or 2 lbs. (910 g) of fatty pork shoulder.

¹
⁄ 
2
 lb. (225 g) of lean veal (beef, chicken thighs, or turkey thighs may be substituted).

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

1 tsp. (5 ml) white pepper

1 tsp. (5 ml) ground mustard—packed in the spoon

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) ground nutmeg

¹
⁄
2
 tsp. (2.5 ml) garlic granules

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) sage—packed in the spoon

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

¼ cup (60 ml) water

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) light corn syrup

2 eggs

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the meats together with a 
³
⁄16-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate. Refrigerate the ground meat for about 30 minutes.

2. Mix the seasoning and all other ingredients except for the ground meat in a large mixing bowl. Refrigerate this seasoning mixture for about 15 minutes.

3. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Chill this meat and seasoning mixture again while the sausage stuffer and hog casings are being prepared.

4. Stuff the sausage paste into the hog casings, and twist into 6-inch (15 cm) links. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

5. Sausages that will not be eaten within two days should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

Goosewurst

In the past, domesticated goose was the traditional Christmas dinner fare in many households, but turkey and ham have replaced it. Goose, however, remains a popular wildfowl for hunting in Canada and the United States.

This recipe can be used for either domesticated or wild goose. However, domesticated geese sold at grocery stores are commonly pumped with a salt solution before freezing. If such geese are used to make this sausage, the sausage will be too salty. You might have to search for a goose that has not been pumped.

THE CASING

I always make patties with this sausage, but it can be stuffed in casings. If 24 to 26 mm (1 in. to 1
¹
⁄16 in.) sheep casing is to be used, prepare about 14 feet (420 cm) of casing. If small-diameter hog casing will be used, prepare 7 feet (210 cm). Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again, and soak in warm water a few minutes before using.

MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of goose that contains about 20 percent fat. The skin may be used. Cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the meat, and put the meat grinder in the refrigerator. If the sausage stuffer will be used, refrigerate it as well.