Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage (22 page)

4. Refrigerate the sausage that will be eaten within the next two days, and freeze the remainder.

Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

Cumberland Sausage

The Cumberland sausage is one of the oldest and most popular in England. As with all famous sausages, there is no definitive recipe; each of the butchers and sausage makers has his/her own secret recipe. But no matter which recipe is used, there are certain things that they have in common. For example, breadcrumbs are mixed with the meat, and the sausage is always stuffed in hog casings. The British claim that there are several good reasons for using breadcrumbs in sausage: When the sausage is cooking and the juices are being squeezed out of the shrinking meat, the breadcrumbs absorb and retain these juices inside the casing; and, because the juices are retained in the casing, the link does not shrink or change its shape.

All the recipes I have seen call for nutmeg and black pepper, and most call for mace, as well. Many of the recipes have belly bacon (the common bacon in the United States) in the list of ingredients, and insist that the pork must be coarsely ground. In some of the recipes, small amounts of marjoram and/or sage are used.

The sausage mixture is traditionally stuffed into pork casings as long as 20 inches (50 cm), and is coiled and roasted in an oven. In modern times, however, the sausage rope is often twisted into shorter links and sautéed.

The traditional and common way to cook a Cumberland sausage coil is to roast it in a 300˚ F (150˚ C) oven for about 30 minutes (longer for medium- to large-diameter hog casings), basting from time to time. The cooked coil is cut into serving lengths, placed on a bed of mashed potatoes, and smothered with onion gravy. This makes a great stick-to-your-ribs meal, British style. Onion gravy mix is available in many United States grocery stores, but you may have to search a little.

CASINGS

Rinse 7 feet (210 cm) of small-diameter hog casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again before using.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare the meats listed below and refrigerate them. While these meats are being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

• 2 lbs. (910 g) of lean pork and 

¹
⁄4 lb. (115 g) of back fat—or 
2
¼ lbs. (1020 g) of fatty pork shoulder. Cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes.

¹
⁄4 lb. (115 g) of common belly bacon. Chop roughly.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

1 tsp. (5 ml) black pepper

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) ground nutmeg

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) mace

1 oz. (30 g) plain breadcrumbs, dry—about 6 Tbsp. (90 ml)

6 Tbsp. (90 ml) boiling water

¼ cup cold water

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. If fatty pork is being used, separate the fat from the pork to the extent possible—complete and perfect separation is not possible and not required. Grind the lean pork with a coarse plate, and grind the well-chilled—or partially frozen—fat and bacon with a fine plate. Refrigerate the ground meat for about 30 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs with the boiling water. Stir well and let set one minute. Add the cold water, stir again, and place in the freezer.

3. Mix the seasoning in a large mixing bowl. Remove the wet breadcrumbs from the freezer and add to the seasoning mixture. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes.

4. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Chill this meat and seasoning mixture again while the sausage stuffer and hog casings are being prepared.

5. Stuff the sausage into the hog casings, and twist into four very long links— each about 20 inches (50 cm) long. Form each of these links into a coil. Or, if you want to sauté or grill the sausage instead of baking it, twist the rope into whatever sized links you desire. Refrigerate the coils and/or links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

6. Sausages that will not be eaten within one day should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

Curry Flavored Sausage

Most sausages have a cultural base, but Curry Flavored Sausage does not. Someone conceived the idea of seasoning sausage with curry powder and made the sausage. Several versions appeared, and this is one of the simple ones.

The tablespoon of curry powder in this recipe gives the sausage a mild and pleasant curry flavor. Even people who are not particularly fond of curry are likely to enjoy this sausage. Curry aficionados will want to increase the amount of curry powder and add some more heat in the form of pepper or cayenne.

CASINGS

If 24 to 26 mm (1 in. to 1
¹
⁄16 in.) sheep casing is to be used, prepare about 14 feet (420 cm) of casing. If small-diameter hog casing will be used, prepare 7 feet (210 cm). Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again, and soak in warm water 30 minutes before using.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of pork shoulder. Cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

***************************************************

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) curry powder, mild

1 tsp. (5 ml) white pepper

¼ cup (60 ml) cold milk

½ cup (120 ml) powdered skim milk

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the well-chilled pork with a medium or fine plate. Refrigerate the ground meat for about 30 minutes.

2. Mix the seasoning, powdered skim milk, and milk in a 5-quart (5 liter) mixing bowl. Refrigerate this seasoning mixture for about 15 minutes.

3. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed. This will require about three minutes. Chill this sausage paste while the sausage stuffer and casings are being prepared.

4. Stuff the sausage paste into the casings, and twist into links. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

5. Sausages that will not be eaten within two days should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

Any cooking method described in Chapter 6 may be used for these links.

Currywurst Sauce

Since World War II, currywurst has gradually become the most popular fast food item in Germany. The sausage for currywurst is grilled or sautéed, cut into bite-sized pieces about 
inch (1 cm) thick, and topped with a curry flavored tomato sauce; it is usually served with French fries and a roll. The sausage used for this fast food item is usually the common uncured

bratwurst, but any kind of stuffed sausage may be used—even cured Polish sausage.

Consequently, instructions for making currywurst are 
not
 instructions for making a unique sausage; they are directions for making the curry flavored tomato sauce that is splashed on top of any kind of sausage link.

Each of the currywurst vendors usually has his or her secret recipe for the currywurst sauce, but many amateur recipes are available. Most of the amateur recipes are very simple and use tomato ketchup as a base. The sauce below is a little more sophisticated, and it is similar to the sauce served by the professionals; yet, it is easy to make. This sauce will serve six to eight people.

While the sauce is being prepared, sauté, roast, or grill bratwurst, or your favorite sausage. If you wish to serve it in the authentic German fast-food style, you should also prepare French fries and hot rolls. Instead of the German fast-food style, my wife and I like to eat it with steamed medium-grain rice and a salad.

If onion granules and garlic granules are used in place of the fresh items, the preparation time for this sauce is much faster.

INGREDIENTS

2 cans (15 oz./425 g size cans) of tomato sauce

1 onion, medium, chopped—or 2 tsp. (10 ml) onion granules

3 Tbsp. (45 ml) honey

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) white pepper, finely ground

2 cloves garlic, sliced—or ¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) garlic granules 1 Tbsp. (15 ml) paprika

1 to 3 tsp. (5 to 15 ml) chili sauce (season to taste)

1 to 3 Tbsp. (15 to 45 ml) mild curry powder (season to taste)

SAUCE PREPARATION

1. Pour the tomato sauce in a medium-size saucepan. (Because tomato sauce is somewhat acidic, a stainless steel or enameled saucepan is best.) Add all other ingredients except the chili sauce and curry powder. Bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes if the sauce was made with fresh onion and garlic. Simmer for 5 minutes if onion and garlic granules are being used.

2. Strain the sauce, and discard the chopped onions and sliced garlic. Return the sauce to the pan.

3. Slowly add the chili sauce to taste, and then add the curry powder to taste. Simmer about five minutes more to bring out the flavor of the curry powder.

4. Slice the sautéed, roasted, or grilled sausage, and place the slices on the individual plates with the French fries and roll. The slices should be about 
inch (1 cm) thick. (If hog casings were used for the links, the casings may be removed before the links are sliced.)

5. Let each person drench the sausage in the desired amount of sauce.

Duck Sausage

This sausage has a variety of seasonings and spices that are commonly used for sausage, but the main ingredient—duck—makes this an exotic sausage. Domesticated duck works as well as wild duck. However, if domesticated duck is used, be sure to use duck that has not been pumped with brine (salt water).

Save the duck carcass. At the end of this sausage recipe, there are easy-to-follow instructions on how to use the carcass to make delicious duck soup.

If you happen to have a lot of duck meat on your hands, you might wish to try the cured duck sausage, 
Duckwurst
, in the next chapter.

CASINGS

If 24 to 26 mm (1 in. to 1
¹
⁄16 in.) sheep casing is to be used, prepare about 14 feet (420 cm) of casing. If small-diameter hog casing will be used, prepare 7 feet (210 cm). Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again, and soak in warm water a few minutes before using.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2 lbs. (910 g) of duck meat; the skin and fat should not exceed about 20 percent of the total meat. Cube the duck. Prepare ½ lb. (250g) of bacon; cut into squares. Refrigerate these meats for at least 30 minutes. While the meats are being prepared, chill the meat grinder and stuffer in the refrigerator.

Mince the meats with the smallest plate available. It would be best to mince the meats two times; mincing twice provides a finely textured sausage. Chill the meat between each grinding. After the grinding is finished, chill the meat again for about 30 minutes.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2¼ tsp. (11.25 ml) salt

1½ tsp. (7.5 ml) black pepper

1 tsp. (5 ml) paprika

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) cayenne

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) coriander seed, ground—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) thyme

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) garlic granules

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) celery seed, ground

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) sage, rubbed—packed in the spoon

¹
⁄8 tsp. (0.625 ml) summer savory

¹
⁄8 tsp. (0.625 ml) allspice