Why Italians Love to Talk About Food (67 page)

In carpione.
Roasted, then marinated in vinegar.

In cereghin.
Milanese name for egg with butter.

In civet.
Boiled in red wine with onion, and seasoned with a marinade of the blood in which the meat was left to rest before cooking.

In salmì.
Marinated for two days, in pieces, then braised in wine with spices.

Aglio-olio-peperoncino
. Boiling olive oil, garlic, hot red pepper, salt.

Alla brava
. Onion, shrimp, cream, thyme, marjoram.

Alla caprese
. Cherry tomatoes,
mozzarella di bufala
, capers.

Alla carbonara
. Pancetta, egg, grated Parmesan.

Alla ciociara
. Anchovies,
mozzarella di bufala
, garlic, tomatoes, whole black pepper-corns, sugar.

Alla contadina
. Tomatoes, olive oil, oregano, cheese.

Alla Gaeta
. Meat sauce of wild boar piglets.

Alla marinara
. Tomato purée, olive oil, garlic.

All'amatriciana
. Smoked
guanciale
(pork cheek) cut into cubes, tomatoes, onion, pecorino.

Alla napoletana
. Ricotta, mozzarella, egg, prosciutto.

Alla Norma
. Eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta, garlic.

Alla papalina
. Egg,
prosciutto crudo
, Parmesan, onion, cream.

Alla pizzaiola
. Tomatoes, oil, oregano, garlic.

Alla potentina
. White wine, egg, Scamorza, olive oil, all sprinkled with bread crumbs.

Alla puttanesca
. Anchovies, black olives, capers, tomatoes, garlic, hot red pepper, oil.

Alla romana
. Smoked
guanciale
(pork cheek) cut into cubes, peas, onion, egg, pepper, pecorino.

All'arrabbiata
. Tomatoes, pancetta or salt pork, garlic, onion, raisins, olives, red pepper, white wine, pecorino.

Alla sarda
. Oil, sage, myrtle, white wine, broth, olives, basil.

Alla siracusana
. Broccoli, soaked raisins, garlic, two types of Caciocavallo cheese, fresh and aged.

Alla trasteverina
. Salted anchovies, tuna, porcini mushrooms, tomato.

Alle vongole
. Heated oil, garlic, parsley, fresh tomatoes, clams.

All'ortolana
. Onion, garlic, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, parsley.

Al pepe e cacio
. Grated red pepper, sometimes Parmesan.

Al pomodoro e basilico
. Fresh tomatoes, warm oil, basil, salt.

Con le sarde
. Sardines, raisins, almonds, onion, saffron, pine nuts.

Del buongustaio
. Minced meat,
prosciutto cotto
, tomatoes, garlic, parsley, olive oil, basil, grated cheese.

Pesto genovese
. Basil, garlic, pine nuts, Sardinian pecorino, olive oil.

Pesto siciliano
. Tomatoes, basil, sharp Ragusan cheese, red pepper, garlic, olive oil.

Pesto trapanese
. Basil, garlic, tomatoes, almonds, olive oil (this recipe does not call for cheese).

Agnolotti
(ø 50 mm, round or rectangular ravioli with bread crumbs, meat, vegetables, cheese). With potatoes (Friuli); with three meats—pork, rabbit, and salami paste—and cabbage (Trentino and Alto Adige); with truffle sauce (Piedmont); with meat sauce and Parmesan (Emilia Romagna); with spinach, ricotta, Parmesan, egg, nutmeg, and sage (Marches).

Amorini
(ø 5 mm, length 50 mm, hollow spirals). With walnuts, marjoram, cream, and grated cheese (Abruzzo).

Anelli
(ø 8 mm). With walnut sauce (Liguria).

Anolini
(ø 4 mm, round ravioli). In broth or braised beef sauce in the regions of Parma and Piacenza (Emilia Romagna).

Avemarie
(ø 20 mm, length 20 mm, cylinders). In broth (everywhere); in saffron sauce (Sicily and Lombardy).

Ballerine
(twisted into cornets). With anchovy sauce (everywhere).

Bavette
(width 1.8 mm, long and flat). With fish (Livorno, Tuscan coast); with mushrooms (Puglia);
alla trasteverina
: with salted anchovies, tuna, porcini mushrooms, and tomatoes (Lazio); Lipari-style: with tuna, olives, capers, and oregano (Aeolian Islands, Sicily).

Bigoli
(ø 3 mm, long, round and filled). With duck (Veneto); with puree of sardines (Veneto).

Bombolotti
(ø 20–30 mm).
Allo sparaceddo
: with broccoli, sausage, garlic, Parmesan, milk, and nutmeg (Naples, Campania).

Bucati
(ø 4–5 mm, long, round and hollow).
All'amatriciana
: smoked
guanciale
(pork cheek) cut into cubes, tomatoes, onion, and pecorino (Lazio).

Bucatini
(ø 2.9 mm, length 300 mm or more, long, round and hollow).
Garganello
: with wild duck (Trentino); with mushrooms (Emilia Romagna);
all'amatriciana
(Lazio);
alla romana
: smoked
guanciale
(pork cheek) cut into cubes, peas, onion, eggs, pepper, and pecorino (Lazio);
alla Gaeta
: with meat sauce of wild boar piglets (Campania);
alla Norma
: with eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta, and garlic (Sicily); with sardines (Palermo, Sicily);
alla brava
: with onion, shrimp, cream, thyme, and marjoram (everywhere).

Busa
or
busiati
(flat pasta made by hand, rolled on a knitting needle, the
busa
(20 x 100 mm). With porcini mushroom sauce (Tuscany); with pork
ragù
(Sicily).
Canederli
(from the German
Knödeln
, gnocchi, ø 40 mm). Dumplings of bread,
speck
(ham), milk, flour, and egg, served in a concentrated broth (Trentino and Alto Adige).

Cannelloni
(ø 30 mm, length 100–150 mm).
Agliata
: with garlic (Piedmont); filled with egg, chicken livers, and gizzards with garlic, prosciutto, and parsley, with a sauce of chicken giblets, onion, broth, grated Parmesan, nutmeg, and white wine (Rome, Lazio);
alla partenopea
(Parthenopean-style): ricotta, mozzarella, egg, and
prosciutto cotto
(Naples, Campania); with broccoli (Sicily); with pine nuts, raisins, ricotta, and peppers (Sicily).

Capelli d'angelo
(angel hair pasta, ø 1.5–2 mm). With light sauces, broths, or simply mixed with olive oil and boiled vegetables (everywhere).

Capellini
(ø 1.2–1.4 mm, length 300 mm or more). With capers and olives (everywhere).

Cappellacci
(ø 40 mm). A type of pumpkin ravioli (Emilia Romagna).

Cappelletti
(ø 30 mm). Ravioli with cheese, prosciutto, and three kinds of meat: veal, beef, and pork; they are served in broth and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese (Emilia Romagna); with
ragù
sauce and dried mushrooms (Emilia Romagna).

Capunti
(fresh egg pasta, 20–25 mm in length). Fresh pasta dumplings with shrimp and
bottarga
(roe) (Sardinia).

Casarecce
(strips folded in two and curled like a scroll, 40 mm long). Ricotta sauce (Basilicata).

Casoncelli
(ø 50–70 mm). Ravioli with pancetta, parsley, bread crumbs, and salami paste (Brescia, Lombardy).

Cavatelli
(fresh egg pasta, 20 mm long, shaped like orange segments with a deep cleft). With tuna and tomato (everywhere); with mushrooms (Molise); with beans and mussels (Puglia).

Cavatellucci
(smaller than
cavatelli
, shaped like orange segments with a deep cleft, ø 15 mm). With broccoli, cooked in fish broth and served with pieces of skate (Lazio).

Cavatieddi
(round gnocchi with a cleft). With pork sauce (Basilicata, Puglia, and Sicily, especially the province of Caltanissetta).

Chifferi lisci
, smooth (from the German
Kiefer
, jaws, ø 20 mm). Egg sauce with green pepper (everywhere).

Chifferi rigati
, ribbed (ø 25–30 mm). With olives and anchovies (everywhere).

Cialzons
(square ravioli with an upturned corner, ø 50 mm). Filled with spinach, topped with melted butter, ricotta, and grated cheese (Friuli Venezia Giulia).

Conchiglie
(shells, length 35 mm). Sauce of Brussels sprouts (Friuli Venezia Giulia).

Conchiglie rigate
(ribbed shells, 35–40 mm in length). With celery, potatoes, and zucchini (Molise).

Corzetti
(from
croce
, cross [see
croxette
]; fresh pasta in sheets 40 mm long, twisted into the shape of a figure eight). With fresh salmon, onion, and walnuts (Ligurian Riviera and in particular Val Polcevera).

Creoli
(ø 3 mm, length 300 mm or more, in square sections, passed through a bronze wire mesh). With pancetta, pepper, and cheese (Molise).

Crespelle
(large and square, sometimes folded into a pocket). With mozzarella (Sicily).

Creste di gallo
(cock's combs, hollow semicircles with crimped edges). With pork, fat-back, and onion (Emilia Romagna).

Croxette
(from
croce
, cross [see
corzetti
]; printed in wooden molds, in the shape of coins with escutcheons or crosses; legend dates them back to the Crusades). With walnut sauce (Liguria).

Culurzones
(rye flour dumplings with egg). With cheese, saffron, and spinach (Sardinia).

Ditalini
(ø 4 mm, hollow). In soups or pasta salads, with beef for example (everywhere).

Eliche
(propellers, ø 4 mm, corkscrew-shaped). With red pepper (Calabria).

Elicoidali
(helixes, ø 6 mm, straight, hollow little tubes, with curved ribs on the surface).
Alla creola
(Creole-style): with mayonnaise, corn, spinach, pancetta, and olive oil (everywhere).

Farfalle
(butterflies, length 35 mm). With smoked salmon (Lombardy); with
prosciutto cotto
, béchamel, whipped cream, and red radicchio of Treviso (Veneto); with peas,
prosciutto cotto
, butter, chives, and Parmesan (everywhere); with chicken and shrimp, onion, white wine, and cream (everywhere).

Fenescecchie
(ø 6 mm, length 40 mm, rolled around a knitting needle). With meat sauce and tomato or fish and tomato (Puglia).

Fettuccelle
(fresh egg pasta, ø 6–7.3 mm, length 300 mm or more). With truffles (Piedmont).

Fettuccine
(fresh egg pasta, ø 8–10 mm, length 300 mm or more; long, flat noodles, wider than linguini, but can substitute for them in all recipes). With thick sauces: especially good with a sauce of cream and walnuts (Piedmont); with Bolognese
ragù
: chopped meat, dried mushrooms, flour, carrots, pancetta, parsley, butter or lard, white wine, sugar, nutmeg, and pepper (Emilia Romagna); sautéed with bread crumbs and basil (Umbria); with pan drippings from a roast (Molise);
alla papalina
: with
prosciutto crudo
, egg, Parmesan, onion, and cream (Lazio).

Fresine
(ø 6–7 mm).
Del buongustaio
: with
prosciutto cotto
, chopped beef, tomatoes, garlic, parsley, olive oil, basil, and grated cheese (everywhere).

Fusilli
(ø 5 mm; the classic length is 40 mm; there are different types depending on the manufacturer: short and fat, short and thin, long and thin). With fontina cheese, cream, and
lardo d'Arnad
(Valle d'Aosta); with asparagus, milk, cream, and nutmeg (Lombardy),
alla beneventana
(Benevento-style): with olive oil, onion, garlic, beef, white wine, mint, parsley, celery, tomatoes, and Parmesan (Campania); with salami paste, garlic, and vegetables (Campania);
alla partenopea
: with ricotta (Campania);
alla vesuviana
(Vesuvian-style): with clams, mussels, squid, and shrimp (Campania);
alla sorrentina
(Sorrento-style): with eggplant and basil (Campania); cold with shrimp and lemon (Calabria); with lemon, olive oil, tomato, basil, and parsley (Calabria); with hot red pepper (Basilicata).

Garganelli
(disks ø 40 mm, rolled into a tube). With white sauce: raisins, pine nuts, carrots, celery, and onion (Emilia Romagna); with porcini mushrooms (Tuscany).

Gemelli
(twins; rolled double ropes). With endive, porcini mushrooms, pine nuts, garlic, and cheese (Valle d'Aosta); with ricotta and Gorgonzola cheese (Piedmont); with Sicilian pesto (Sicily).

Gnocchetti
(length 20 mm). With fava beans, pancetta, garlic, and parsley (Veneto).

Gnocchetti sardi
(little Sardinian gnocchi, also called
malloreddus
, which in Sardinian means “young bulls”; fresh pasta 10–20 mm in length, often with saffron). With peas, garlic, and parsley (Sardinia); with lamb sauce (Sardinia).

Gnocchi
(length 30 mm).
Alla veronese
(Verona-style): with chicken gizzards, dried mushrooms, and cheese (Veneto);
all'ortolana
(areas of Bergamo and Sondrio, Lombardy).

Gnocchi alla romana
(of semolina, Parmesan cheese, butter, milk, egg). With melted butter (Rome, Lazio).

Gobbetti
(short, hollow “hunchbacks”).
Alla caprese
: with
mozzarella di bufala
, cherry tomatoes, capers (Campania);
al limone
: with lemon, a kosher dish of Jewish cuisine (Tuscany).

Gomiti rigati
(ribbed elbows).
Ai tre formaggi
(with three cheeses): fontina, mozzarella, Parmesan (Valle d'Aosta).

Lagane
(wide lasagna noodles). With lentils (Puglia); with milk (Calabria).

Lancette
(little spears: flat, folded into cornets 45–60 mm long). In broth and with cheese sauce (Valle d'Aosta).

Lasagne
(long and very wide; their edges may be smooth or rippled). Baked in the oven with Bolognese
ragù
sauce (Emilia Romagna); with veal,
prosciutto crudo
, celery, and butter (Emilia Romagna); with nettle (Liguria); with pesto Genovese (Liguria);
incassettate
, that is, barely scalded, then baked in a mold in the oven (Marches).