The Baking Answer Book (5 page)

Q
Will it make a difference if I substitute skim milk for whole milk or nonfat sour cream for full-fat sour cream in a recipe?

A
Dairy products containing fat contribute to a cake’s or cookie’s tenderness and moisture. In some cases, substituting a lower-fat version won’t be disastrous. Low-fat (1% or 2%) milk contains enough fat to adequately moisten a cake batter, although skim milk, which contains no fat, won’t work as well. In the case of sour cream or cream cheese, it is essential to use full-fat when specified, because baked goods rely on these ingredients for their fat content.

Q
My family drinks skim milk exclusively, although I buy half-and-half for my coffee. To avoid buying whole milk just for a baking recipe, can I add a splash of half-and-half to my skim milk?

A
It’s all about the percentages, and you can certainly mix the two to approximate whole milk. Skim milk has no fat at all. Whole milk is about 3.5% butterfat. Half-and-half
is about 10% butterfat. Heavy cream is about 35% butterfat. So you can substitute 3 or so tablespoons of half-and-half for 3 tablespoons of skim milk in every cup, or 1 tablespoon of heavy cream for 1 tablespoon of skim milk. If your mind boggles at the math then, yes, just add a splash of half-and-half or cream to your skim milk and you will likely have added sufficient fat to enrich your batter or dough.

Q
What is buttermilk? Why is it so popular with bakers?

A
Buttermilk is a cultured dairy product, like yogurt. Harmless bacteria are added to milk and then the milk is heated, in the process converting some of the milk’s sugars into acids. The acids give buttermilk its characteristic zing, valued by bakers because it adds a pleasantly tangy flavor to everything from pancakes and biscuits to chocolate cakes. If you don’t have buttermilk on hand or doubt that you will use a quart of it when the recipe you are following requires only a cup, you can sour regular milk by stirring 1 tablespoon of white vinegar or lemon juice into 1 cup of milk. Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before adding it to your recipe.

SEE ALSO:
Buttermilk in pastry dough,
page 98
; buttermilk in scones,
page 147
.

Q
Can soymilk be substituted for regular milk in baking?

A
Many people prefer soymilk for health reasons: Richer in protein and higher in fiber than cow’s milk, it also contains isoflavones, chemical compounds that have been linked to the prevention of cancer, heart disease, and other serious illnesses. People who are lactose intolerant or allergic to cow’s milk can drink soymilk without ill effects. Although soymilk doesn’t naturally contain calcium, many brands are enriched with enough calcium to make it milk’s nutritional equal. Soymilk, which is made by soaking, grinding, cooking, and then squeezing dried soybeans, can be substituted for milk in most baking recipes, where its flavor, which differs significantly from milk, won’t be noticeable. Soymilk isn’t recommended in recipes such as pudding or custard, where milk is a primary ingredient.

Q
What are some basic rules for handling eggs safely?

A
A very small number of eggs may contain salmonella bacteria, which when consumed raw may cause serious illness, especially among the elderly, the very young, pregnant women, and anyone with a compromised immune system.

Egg Safety

Buy only uncracked eggs
that have been properly stored in a refrigerated case, because bacteria proliferate quickly if the shells are cracked, and especially at higher temperatures.

Don’t wash your eggs.
During processing they have been sanitized and sprayed with a natural mineral oil to protect them from contamination. Washing them will leave them more vulnerable to bacteria.

Refrigerate eggs immediately
, in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Don’t store your eggs on the door shelf, which can be warmer than the interior. Use them within 3 to 5 weeks. Refrigerate unused shelled eggs and use within 2 days.

Use warm, soapy water
to wash hands, utensils, and work surfaces that have come in contact with raw eggs.

Most important, eggs should never be consumed raw
, although the possibility of contracting salmonella this way is remote. Because bacteria are destroyed when eggs are cooked to a temperature of 160°F (71°C), salmonella is usually a nonissue for bakers as virtually all baked goods reach or exceed this temperature in the oven. After pies are topped with meringue, they should be baked for at least 15 minutes in a 350°F (180°C) oven to reach a safe temperature. Use an instant-read thermometer to check the temperature of custard fillings and sauces, which should also be cooked to a safe temperature of 160°F (71°C).

Q
Why do recipes often specify “large” eggs?

A
Successful baking requires precise measuring, so good recipes specify egg size to ensure consistent results. Eggs are packaged according to weight. If you know the weights of different size eggs, you can make substitutions. A medium egg weighs 1¾ ounces, a large egg weighs 2 ounces, an extra-large egg weighs 2¼ ounces, and a jumbo egg weighs 2½ ounces. So, for example, you can substitute 4 jumbo eggs for 5 large eggs.

Q
What is meringue powder? Is it the same as powdered egg whites? How do I substitute either one for fresh egg whites?

A
Both powdered egg whites and meringue powder are made with egg whites that have been pasteurized, and thus are safe to consume when uncooked. Bakers use the two products when they’d rather not use raw eggs — in cake frostings and cookie icings that will be consumed at an event where the crowds may include the elderly, children, or pregnant women, for whom salmonella bacteria can be particularly dangerous.

Powdered egg whites are just that — dehydrated egg whites pulverized into a powder. Whisk 2 teaspoons of powdered egg whites plus 2 tablespoons of warm water to make the equivalent of 1 fresh egg white. Powdered egg whites can be found in the baking aisle of the grocery store.

Meringue powder is a combination of dried egg whites, sugar, and gum. It will add more shine and stability to your frostings and icings than powdered egg whites will, but is more difficult to locate. You’ll probably have to go to a baking supply store or purchase it online (see Resources). Otherwise, simply substitute powdered egg whites. There is no need to add more sugar if using plain egg whites.

Q
What is the difference between baking soda and baking powder?

A
Baking soda is a chemical leavener. When it comes in contact with acids, the reaction produces carbon dioxide, a bubbly gas that causes baked goods to rise. Baking soda works with an acidic ingredient such as lemon juice, sour cream, or buttermilk to prompt this reaction, but many baked goods don’t contain acidic ingredients. To get a similar rise in these cases, bakers use baking powder, which is baking soda combined with a little acid and some cornstarch to keep the two ingredients dry and nonreactive until moistened.

Q
Why do some recipes call for baking powder
and
baking soda?

A
Using both baking powder and baking soda is extra insurance that your baked goods will rise. Baking powder is a very reliable leavener, containing a perfectly balanced
mixture of bicarbonate of soda and acid. The bubbles it produces won’t dissipate as quickly as the bubbles produced by baking soda. So sometimes, even if a recipe contains an acidic ingredient like buttermilk, it will call for baking powder and a little bit of baking soda. The baking soda neutralizes the acids in the batter or dough, allowing the baking powder to do the work of leavening.

MAKING YOUR OWN BAKING POWDER

Some bakers complain of a slight off-flavor that commercial baking powder supposedly gives to baked goods, although I have not experienced this in my own baking. Perhaps it is the sodium aluminum sulphate, one of the acids added to baking soda to create baking powder, that imparts a hint of metal. If this is a problem for you, or if you find yourself out of baking powder at an inconvenient moment, you can make your own baking powder by combining ¼ teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon cornstarch, and ½ teaspoon cream of tartar (an acid) for every teaspoon of baking powder called for. Don’t try to mix large quantities to keep in the pantry. Remember that because homemade baking powder is not “double-acting,” it will begin to release its carbon dioxide when it comes in contact with liquid, so if you are mixing a dough or batter with it, get your cookies or cake in the oven as soon as you are through with mixing.