Authors: Andrew Hicks
âYou're right,' said Chuck, âbut governments do desperate things. The Philippine government's been exporting women for years as domestic servants. They're open to abuse, but remittances by overseas workers are the country's biggest foreign exchange earner. Money talks, man, so forget the abuse!'
âHey guys, this has got a wee bit serious,' said Stewart. âHow about some more Sang Som?
âYes, I need to release my seriousness a bit,' said Ben stretching his legs. But relaxed as he felt, there was still one more thing he wanted to talk about.
âSo what about the environment?' he said to nobody in particular. âKoh Chang's a National Park, but it's one big building site. With the new road down the west, resorts are going up everywhere.'
âOnly the jungle's protected,' said Maca. âOld coconut and rubber plantations can be developed, so if you want to throw up some huts there's nothing to stop you ⦠at least that's what Odin told me. What d'you think, Dutch?'
âIt's Thailand's big problem ⦠like tourism in Spain in the sixties. No controls on development means oversupply, cheap prices and environmental damage. Tourism's booming at the moment, but busts always follow, especially when the place goes out of fashion.'
âThe government's got some big scheme to turn Koh Chang into a high-class resort area with loads of new infrastructure,' added Maca. âOkay maybe if they restrict informal development, but I'll believe that when I see it.' He subsided into a pessimistic silence.
âI met a girl who went to the floating market near Bangkok. Thought it disgusting ⦠hundreds of tour buses crowded into one village and no traditional life anywhere, just a few boats selling the usual tacky handicrafts,' said Chuck. âIf you ask me, the Thais are really going to have to look out. There's more and more competition from Lao and Cambodia and just wait till tourism really takes off in Burma. Thailand's still a great place but we won't keep coming if they ruin it.'
The next day after an early start and a tedious bus ride back to Ban Phe, Ben waited for a ferry to Na Dan, the fishing village on Koh Samet. They told him it would leave as soon as there were twenty people ready to go, so tired, hot and hungry he did not dare order any food in case a flush of people arrived and he had no time to eat it. The only other person waiting for the boat was a grim-faced American with impenetrable shades and a granite jaw. Restlessly pacing up and down, chewing gum, he insisted on telling Ben about all the best beaches he should visit in Thailand.
âHow do you know Thailand so well?' asked Ben.
âBin coming here twice a year last ten years.'
âOn holiday?' asked Ben, sensing a sex tourist.
âNo, on business.'
âWhat business are you in?'
âOrchids,' he said, chewing hard.
An hour later after landing at Na Dan and sharing a pick-up along the dusty track with the American, Ben checked into a hut at the Hat Yao Resort. His first thought was how to get Odin's message delivered to Fon so they could meet at sundown. The best idea was one of the vendors who walk the coast path and within minutes a sarong seller was on his way to Ao Sapporot clutching the note for Fon in his hand.
Relieved this was done, Ben went back to his hut and collapsed onto his bed and slept. When he woke, the sun was already low in the sky behind the island. He put on trousers as protection against mosquitoes and started off along the coast path. The walk was not as long as he remembered and he soon got to Ao Hin Kong, a quiet beach with a wooden jetty jutting out into the sea. By the jetty stood a wild mango tree, a magnificent specimen, its gnarled trunk wrapped in lengths of fabric, at its foot a shrine to the many spirits that dwelt in its branches.
He walked to the far end of the jetty from where he could see the full length of the beach and sat and studied the crazy assortment of palm trunks driven into the sand and the narrow walkway of irregular planks. It was the perfect place to wait for the sunset and for Fon. Somehow he felt sure that this time nothing could go wrong.
It was almost dark by the time he saw a small figure appear at the end of the bay. He watched her as she reached the tree, stopping for a moment, before walking at a measured pace towards the jetty. Half way along it, she broke into a run, the boards rattling and bouncing under her feet. She did not slow down but hurled herself at him, her small body hitting him with all its force. Ben held tightly onto her as she clung to him, her feet clear of the ground, joking and laughing and nuzzling her face into his neck. It was far more than he had dared hope for.
They sat together on the jetty in the gathering darkness facing out to sea, Fon between his knees lying back against him, he wrapping his arms around her in undisputed possession determined never to let go of her again. He felt an overwhelming joy as deep as his despair had been when she told him she could not see him again. There were many things he wanted her to explain to him but somehow the setbacks became unimportant as they were with each other now, bonded together by closeness and touch. They did not need to talk much, and talking's not easy when mouths are so engrossed.
For Ben the moment was a sensuous experience to rival even Odin's curries; the waves hissing restlessly up the beach a few feet beneath them, the blackness of the night punctuated by the lights of the fishing boats and pricked by the stars, the salty tang of the sea, the warm scent of Fon's body and the taste of tongues on white ivory.
But then after only a few minutes together, Fon suddenly sat up. âMust go back,' she said.
âWhy? So soon? Fon, I've only just got here.'
âCannot stay. Joy miss me.'
âWhen'll I see you again?' he begged her.
âTomorrow.'
âBut when? I'll die if I have to sit around waiting for you.'
âNo Ben, you not die.'
And then she was gone, walking away fast along the jetty, leaving him gazing after her as she disappeared into the darkness.
Back at Hat Yao that night, Ben sat alone on the beach, relieved and overjoyed but tantalised. As he ate, an old man in black pyjamas hobbled up to his table.
âYou no have lady tonight?' he asked Ben.
âNot here, no.'
â Sorry ⦠I hope you no sad.'
âI'm okay, I think,' said Ben.
âYou like, I sing for you,' said the old man, taking a bamboo flute from his pocket. He played a lilting tune and then sang.
When he had finished, he slowly explained the song.
âThis very sad story ⦠love story. Beautiful girl, she have boyfriend in village where she born. Then she go work Bangkok, meet new boyfriend. Boyfriend have money, have motorbike ⦠so she marry him. Then she go back village, New Year. She see old boyfriend, tell him she marry already. He very sorry ⦠he very sad. This song very beautiful ⦠same life. Life sometime sad, sometime beautiful. You think so?'
Ben silently nodded his head in agreement.
31
There was a storm in the night and through pleasant dreams Ben was aware of the rain beating on the roof of his hut. He woke early and lay listening to the shriek of the insects, the croaking of the bullfrogs and the more distant sound of the breakers coming ashore onto the beach.
He took a shower and started to sort out the mess from emptying his rucksack the night before. His sarong was damp and smelly so he decided to hang it over the plastic chair on the veranda to air. As he went outside in his boxer shorts his eyes fell on the pool of rain water on the seat of the chair, the moment somehow frozen in time by the impact of what happened next. For there on the steps glimpsed out of the corner of his eye was a slim figure in a blue tie-die shirt, her hair piled up on top, silent and still, watching in amusement as she caught him in a very domestic moment.
Fon launched herself at him, a gust of femininity and fragrance, smelling freshly-washed of shampoo and soap and glowing a little from the walk along the shore. She flung her arms round his neck and kissed him on the cheek, radiant and happy. They retreated into the hut, where she hardly resisted when he dragged her down onto the bed. Cuddled up together, their limbs intertwined, they lay and talked.
âNo idea you'd be here so early, Fon. Thought I was in for another awful wait,' said Ben.
âGet up five o'clock, cook food for the monks,' she said, showing him the saffron-coloured string tied around her wrist as a mark of merit.
âSo now another day of massage?'
âFon, always work. And you Ben, where you go?'
âNowhere ⦠just waiting here for you.' He planted a lingering kiss on her lips.
âSo Koh Chang funny?' she asked when he released her.
âYou mean fun? Yes, it was brilliant.'
âYou have girlfriend, Koh Chang?' she demanded bluntly.
âYes, I did,' he said. âYou of course!'
âPak waan.
You sweet mouth, Ben.'
There was more kissing, but Fon had something important to say.
âBen, I thinking strong. Last night, see you short time then go back. Now you wait while I work all day. No good for you ⦠maybe find you with rope round your head!' With a shriek, she passed her hand across her throat to suggest suicide by a despairing lover.
âNo, I won't kill myself ⦠not if you still like me, Fon.'
âLove you little bit more each time ⦠now maybe forty percent!'
There was laughter as Ben wrestled her onto the mattress again and stopped her talking, but she broke away from him and sat up.
âBen, I thinking ⦠this my life. Sometime they speak me no good, but no problem.'
âWhat d'you mean, Fon?'
âI mean, better you come Ao Sapporot, then can see me every day.'
Ben could hardly believe what he was hearing.
âMe stay at Ao Sapporot? But what'll people say?'
âIf people speak me no good, if they fight me ⦠I fight back!'
âBut this is a big thing for you isn't it, you being seen with me?' he asked anxiously.
âWhat can I do? If my heart strong, have to follow my heart.'
The impact of what she was saying was hardly sinking in when she jumped up from the bed and dragged Ben to his feet.
âHiu khao â¦
very hungry. We go eat,' she said.
âOkay. Well, I'm too gobsmacked to feel hungry, but yes, why not.'
Sitting in the restaurant overlooking the beach, they watched the workers raking up the leaves and flotsam that the storm had brought in, Ben turning things over in his mind. This seemed to be another huge leap forward. He was no longer a pariah to be kept hidden from sight at a distant beach. It meant that Fon was prepared to let her relationship with him be openly recognised. It was a public declaration, a decision of significance for her and perhaps for him too.
They ordered breakfast from a sleepy girl who gave them curious glances.
âShe think I stay with you last night,' said Fon.
âI wish,' replied Ben dreamily.
âThink I stay with you ⦠sell sex.'
After breakfast they went back to the hut to be alone together for a few moments. It was eight thirty when Fon finally looked at her watch and said she must go; she would be missed if she was not on the beach starting work at the usual time. Ben thought of checking out of his hut immediately and walking to Ao Sapporot with her but decided to follow on later in the morning as if he had just arrived on the island.
He stood on the veranda and watched as Fon walked briskly away through the trees with a bounce in her step, her hair now loose and flowing. Just at the last moment before disappearing from view behind a hut, she turned, saw him gazing after her and blew him a kiss with both hands. Like the moment earlier when he first caught sight of her on the veranda steps, the distant kiss became fixed in his memory with photographic clarity. The bad moments in his Thai love affair had been terrible but the good ones made up for them a million times over.
That afternoon, Ben found himself back at Ao Sapporot staying in the same place he had been with Emma a few weeks earlier. There were many local people who recognised him and gave him a welcome, sometimes perhaps with a knowing look; he could not be sure.