Romancing the Roads (21 page)

Arizona

Phoenix and Scottsdale

Taking I-8
from San Diego to I-10 (as I did), and then into Phoenix/Scottsdale, is quite direct, but it still takes about seven long hours. It’s not a bad drive, and there are several places to stop and get gas—I emphasize that there are not many but several. It’s a landscape of heat, dust, and rocks—which in their own way can be very attractive. The temperature will change drastically along the way. When I left San Diego, it was 71 degrees; by the time I reached Yuma, 180 miles away, the temperature was a very hot and dry 118 degrees. This drive requires a full gas tank (top it off whenever there’s an opportunity), water (of course), a charged cell phone, and cream for your face. Yes, the sun will find your face through the windshield.

Yuma (Population Approximately 60,000)

This is
possibly the hottest, driest town in the United States, though those in
Gila Bend
may beg to differ. Yuma is a real town, where you can stretch, eat, get gas, and possibly feel hotter than you have ever felt in your life. I did find a strip mall with one of those “you might find anything here” stores, which I call “gypsy stores” because they are liable to have moved by the time you read this.

Dateland

Between Yuma
and Gila Bend there is really a whole lot of nothing. Dateland is just a spot on the map, but it is an authentic place to stop. I recommend that you do. There is a mini market with gas, postcards, restrooms, trinkets, and telephones, as well as a restaurant, gift shop, and bus stop. The restaurant is spotless, and everyone is friendly. Appropriately, a lot of dates are grown in the area. The specialty is the fact that they grow “the world’s finest Medjool dates.” At the restaurant, you can get dates of all varieties (except the two-legged kind), like date milk shakes and cream pies. I would suggest being very careful about eating too many dates, as delicious as they are, before returning to your drive in the heat. When traveling (especially in high heat), I like to keep my stomach rather empty, but from all reports, I hear that the date milk shakes are excellent.

Date Data:
Many consider dates nature’s candy. They are low in fat and sodium, contain no cholesterol, are high in fiber and magnesium, contain more potassium than bananas, and are rich in iron.

Note:
In the 1940s, Gen. George Patton had two desert training camps here, and in 1942 three airstrips were built for training B-25 bombers. Most of this is gone, although due to the hot desert heat, the military still uses the Dateland area for training troops going to Iraq.

Gila Bend

On entering
the town, you’ll see a sign reading,

Gila Bend

Welcomes You

Home of 1700 Friendly People

And 5 Old Crabs Ele. 737

The name Gila Bend comes from the fact that the
Gila River
makes a 90-degree “bend” to the north here. Gila Bend is about fifty miles southwest of Phoenix; a shortcut to the metropolis is to take Route 85 at Gila Bend north to I-10. I have done this several times, and Route 85 is a good road, though without the services of an interstate.

About forty miles outside of Phoenix, there is one of the largest prisons imaginable, including a large juvenile correctional center, where a road sign reads, “Do Not Stop for Hitchhikers.” Hmmm.

Phoenix and Scottsdale

Phoenix and
Scottsdale are so close together that they practically lie on top of one another. A thriving oasis in the middle of the dessert, Phoenix is not difficult to navigate. The key is to become familiar with the main thoroughfares and keep an eye on “the Camel,” imposing
Mount Camelback
, as a point of reference.

Whether a camel or a camelette . . . at first it might be hard to discern. The camel is “seated” on all fours. Focus and you will soon see it. It’s an excellent landmark.

The Phoenix/Scottsdale area is a veritable heaven on earth for women, with its spas, restaurants, golf courses, pools, and shopping. Here are my recommendations, based on my several visits to this fabulous desert oasis.

Hotels

Royal Palms Hotel

5200 E. Camelback Rd.

800-672-6011

www.royalpalmshotel.com

What a fabulous oasis it is! From the second you see this gem, you know it is special. Immediately you get a feeling of intimacy and quiet delight. As you drive the small, circular cobblestone driveway and park your car, attired attendants greet you with a smile, even in 110-degree heat.

When you enter, you feel like you are walking into a private home—no, a mansion—which the Royal Palms once was. Its history from home to hotel is interesting:

In the early 1920s, New York financier Delos Cooke pursued his dream to build a winter home in Phoenix and commissioned the building of a mansion in the grand Spanish colonial style. A world traveler, Delos and his wife, Florence, filled their mansion with wondrous treasures from their travels around the world.

After Cooke’s untimely death in 1931, the home was sold to a series of private parties, who added various rooms, including an in-house chapel. After World War II, a group of investors purchased the Cooke property with the intention of developing a first-class resort. A new era for the estate began.

Named for the regal, towering trees lining each side of the entryway, the Royal Palms Inn opened to guests in the winter of 1948. It became a destination of choice for discriminating travelers from around the world, including celebrities such as Groucho Marx and Helena Rubenstein.

In 1995, local Arizona businessman Fred Unger purchased the landmark property and went about the task of restoring Royal Palms to its original charm and elegance. Today, after a multi-million-dollar restoration, the preservation of this historic property has been assured.

There are rooms, suites, casitas, deluxe casitas, a camelback villa, and a honeymoon villa. I was traveling in the summer and was upgraded to a magnificent deluxe casita. The room was absolutely charming and cozy with its wrought iron bed frame, fireplace, private patio, and custom-designed furniture. Though wonderful, it needed a bit of fine tuning: The oversize stuffed chairs could have used an ottoman between them; the switch on the bed lamps was not an easy reach; the door on the TV entertainment center didn’t fold back all the way. These little things could easily be corrected.

A Female Tidbit:
If you have a private patio, you can rinse out your items and hang them discreetly on a patio chair, where they will dry almost instantly. Don’t leave them out at night, because that’s when the sprinklers go on.

Everyone at the Royal Palms was extremely friendly, capable, and knowledgeable. The courtyard and all the inside areas and gardens are beautiful.

The heavenly
Alvadora Spa
is what I call a boutique spa—small, intimate, and serene. You definitely do not feel like a number lost among pseudo smiles. The technician who gave me an “Orange Blossom Body Buff” was skilled and professional and generally seemed to care about what she was doing and how I was feeling. I recommend this treatment without a doubt. In the spa world, there are many kinds of treatments applied by technicians whose experience varies, from the perfunctory body rub with smelly oil and several minutes of gonging sounds to oils carefully applied until you are comfortably in la-la land. The Alvadora was definitely in the latter category; providing one of the best spa treatments I’ve received. Prices can range from $30 to $400 for a four-hour spa package. (An 18 percent gratuity is automatically added to your bill.) There are many different options, so study the (then) difficult-to-read brochure carefully. You have nothing to think about except you and your experience. Alvadora proves that size doesn’t matter when it comes to a first-rate experience.

The Royal Palms’s principal restaurant,
T. Cook’s
, features not just a maître d’ but a “director of romance.” Even if romance is not on the evening’s agenda, the director oversees everything with enthusiasm and his restaurant gamesmanship. My dining experience at T. Cook’s was exceptional. I enjoyed soft-shell crab with sweet pepper relish and warm bacon dressing; toasted beet and chèvre salad with watercress, mâche, and walnut vinaigrette; spit-roasted chicken with baby green beans, creminis, and beurre rouge. Ice cream was my dessert, and it was served on appropriately chilled plates. Hot plates, cold plates, large plates, small plates, decorated plates—it was truly a delicious dinner delight, and the presentations were perfect. Prices are sensible. T. Cook’s is very popular, so reservations are recommended.

T. Cook’s also has outdoor patio dining—perhaps not a great idea in midsummer, though the area is cooled by a misting system. This makes alfresco dining bearable with a fun twist. Forget your hair! The bar at T. Cook’s is in the courtyard. There is bar seating for about thirteen, in addition to several overstuffed leather chairs and a 1930s-style sofa. Music from the baby grand piano fills the air. The
Cigar Room
is located at the bar and seats approximately twelve people in plush chairs and sofas over a red leather floor. I did not see any “men only” signs, so ladies too can enjoy.

Royal Palms offers cold bottled water on departure—a classy gesture befitting a classy place.

The Phoenician

6000 E. Camelback Rd.

480-941-8200

www.thephoenician.com

You hear about some places over and over again until they develop a sort of legendary status in your mind. The Phoenician lives up to its reputation and more.

Though huge, slick, and glamorous, the Phoenician is not intimidating. The complex is well run, pleasant, and inviting, even though it sprawls over 250 acres, contains 654 rooms, and boasts 27 holes of championship golf, 12 tennis courts, 9 heated pools, and a 165-foot waterslide (which this mother thoroughly enjoyed after several moments of hesitation).

Note:
Foot protection is vital by the pools due to the heat of the walkways.

The Phoenician is indeed big but not gaudy. The art is tasteful, and the decor is well designed. It is not hard to find your way around once you get your bearings, but the staff is most helpful if you get lost. I stayed in the
Canyon Building
, which is kind of a resort within the resort. Just a few steps outside my room was the pool for the building, where I enjoyed a delightful late-night swim under the stars. Conveniently, the Canyon Building also has its own self-park garage downstairs.

The first night I had drinks at the
Thirsty Camel Lounge
with then director of public relations Debora Bridges, who gave me an outstanding verbal tour of the property. (She definitely knows her profession.) The Thirsty Camel is the perfect spot to wind down, with its spectacular views and relaxing classical music in the background.

Dinner was at
Mar
y Elaine’s
, located on the top level of the main building. The views are magnificent, and the attention to detail was to the max. Then women would receive a “perch” on which to place their purses.

During dinner I met Greg Tresner, the master sommelier, who succinctly and interestingly explained the wines being served.

FYI:
There are only forty-two master sommeliers in the United States and ninety-seven worldwide, as noted in
Arizona Food & Lifestyle
.

Update:
After nearly twenty years,
J&G Steakhouse
(480-214-8000) has replaced Mary Elaine’s, but not a morsel of excellence has been diminished. The sommelier is still present, but the pocketbook perch is gone. From what I have learned, this is a most special eating experience. It is a Jean-George Vongerichten creation.

Il Terrazo
(480-423-2530), featuring American Italian cuisine, is another dining area serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and an excellent Sunday brunch. Casual dining can be found at the
Relish Burger Bistro
, overlooking the championship golf course.

I had an excellent facial at the
spa
(800-843-2392), and there are numerous choices. The space is big, gracious, and appealing.

My experience at the Phoenician was very memorable. You will feel at home and comfortable in spite of its size. You will enjoy.

Arizona Biltmore and Spa

2400 E. Missouri Ave.

602-955-6600 or 800-950-0086

www
.arizonabiltmore.com

Designed by consulting architect Frank Lloyd Wright and opened in 1929, the Arizona Biltmore was later bought by William Wrigley Jr. For the next forty-four years, the Wrigley family owned and operated this unique property. In 1973 it was sold to Talley Industries. There have been several expansions and renovations to the Arizona Biltmore, but it has always retained its special style. In spite of its size, you will not feel overwhelmed here, though more signage would definitely help to keep you from getting lost in the maze of corridors. The
spa
(602-381-7632) is most pleasant, and one of the unique features of the resort is a giant chessboard cut into the lawn. The resort has three restaurants: the
Café
for casual, healthy eating;
Frank & Alberts
; and
Wright’s
(602-381-7632), the resort’s signature restaurant, where I found the food and ambiance exceptional.

This property, known as the “Jewel of the Desert,” has 738 guest rooms, eight swimming pools, seven tennis courts, six restaurants and lounges, and a full spa, salon, and fitness center. There are two eighteen-hole championship golf courses, the
Links
and the
Adobe
, and an eighteen-hole putting course. Everything you could possibly want can be found at this magnificent resort, though it is anything but glitzy. The Wright-influenced design is subdued but attractive, and the landscaping is superb. The resort was recently added to the Waldorf-Astoria Collection in the Hilton Hotel system.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Irving Berlin composed “White Christmas” sitting poolside at the Arizona Biltmore.