Near a Thousand Tables (49 page)

116
“as an art”:
Gowers,
Loaded Table,
p. 51.

116
fragment of Alexis:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 122.

116
“got me there”:
Antiphanes, quoted in ibid., p. 113; translation modified.

117
improving foie gras:
L. Bolens,
Agronomes andalous du moyen age
(Geneva, 1981).

117
“than my thumb”:
Brillat-Savarin,
Philosopher in the Kitchen,
pp. 54-55.

118
dumb barbarian:
Steingarten,
Man Who Ate Everything,
p. 231.

118
his resentment:
F. Gómez de Oroxco, in M. de Carcer y Disdier,
Apuntes para la historia de la transculturación indoespañola
(Mexico, 1995), pp. x-xi.

118
“founded upon elegance”:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 58.

121
“rose red”:
M. Leibenstein, “Beyond Old Cookbooks: Four Travellers' Accounts,” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 224-29.

121
scented with sandalwood:
Wright,
Homes of Other Days,
pp. 360-61.

121
grape must:
Bober,
Art, Culture and Cuisine,
p. 154.

121
the Middle Ages:
J. Goody,
Food and Love: A Cultural History of East and West
(London, 1998), p. 131.

122
“Cicero of the potato”:
Bonnet, “Culinary System,” pp. 146-47.

122
assuaged without them:
See also Goody,
Food and Love,
p. 130.

122
Catherine de Medici ill:
Peterson,
Acquired Tastes,
pp. 109-10.

123
behind barriers:
J.-R. Pitte,
Gastronomie française: histoire et géographie d'une passion
(Paris, 1991), pp. 127-28.

123
were in print:
Ibid., p. 129.

123
“had no heart”:
Wright,
Homes of Other Days,
p. 167.

124
“at the beginning”:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 25.

124
“life and death”:
A. Beardsworth and T. Keil,
Sociology on the Menu
(London, 1997), p. 87.

124
aside for alms:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 86.

124
“gets the straw”:
Camporesi,
Magic Harvest,
p. 95.

124
“refined people”:
Ibid., p. 119.

124
honey wine in Ethiopia:
Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class,
p. 101.

124
cooked in champagne:
J.-P. Aron, “The Art of Using Leftovers: Paris, 1850-1900,” in Forster and Ranum,
Food and Drink in History,
pp. 98-108, at pp. 99, 102.

125
“the fodder of man”:
Camporesi,
Magic Harvest,
pp. 80-81, 106.

125
sumptuary laws:
Peterson,
Acquired Tastes,
p. 92.

125
“soaked in water”:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 64.

125
“clandestine delights”:
Camporesi,
Magic Harvest,
p. 90.

126
barley bread:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 31.

126
“White bread and often!”:
Ibid., p. 51.

126
to lose caste:
Forster and Ranum,
Food and Drink in History,
p. x.

126
grains selected:
Prakash,
Food and Drinks,
p. 100.

126
seventeenth-century France:
Peterson,
Acquired Tastes,
pp. 84-88.

126
“roast chicken”:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 57.

127
patriotic preference:
J. Revel, “Capital's Privileges: Food Supply in Early-Modern Rome,” in Forster and Ranum,
Food and Drink in History,
pp. 37-49, at pp. 39-40.

127
mechanical press:
Montanari,
Culture of Food,
p. 143.

127
“has no scales”:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 200.

127
“twice a week”:
John Byng, quoted in J. P. Alcock, “God Sends Meat, but the Devil Sends Cooks, Or, a Solitary Pleasure: The travels of the Hon. John Byng Through England and Wales in the Late XVIIIth Century,” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 14-31, at p. 22.

127
“personnes aisées”:
M. Bloch, “Les aliments de l'ancienne France,” in J. J. Hemardinquer, ed.,
Pour une histoire de l'alimentation
(Paris, 1970), pp. 231-35.

127
sixty cents:
Remedi,
Los secretos de la olla,
p. 81.

128
any of them:
B. Díaz del Castillo,
Historia verdadera de la conquista de la Nueva España,
ed. J. Ramírez Cabañas, 2 vols. (Mexico, 1968), i, 271.

128
lords'feasts:
T. de Benavente o Motolinia,
Memoriales,
ed. E. O'Gorman (Mexico, 1971), p. 342.

128
tomatoes and squashes:
F. Berdan,
The Aztecs of Central Mexico: An Imperial Society
(New York, 1982), p. 39.

128
“relatives and friends”:
Sahagún,
Historia,
pp. 503-12.

129
“China brier”:
P. P. Bober, “William Bartran's Travels in Lands of Amerindian Tobacco and Caffeine: Foodways of Seminoles, Creeks and Cherokees,” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 44-51, at p. 47.

129
“south of the Sahara”:
Goody,
Food and Love,
p. 2.

130
nuts or leaves:
Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class,
pp. 40-78.

132
“consumer conservatism”:
M. Douglas, ed.,
Food in the Social Order: Studies of Food and Festivities in Three American Communities
(New York, 1984), p. 4.

133
“horseman's weight”:
Quoted in Goody,
Food and Love,
p. 134.

133
“bad meat eatable”:
R. Warner,
Antiquitates Culinariae
[1791], quoted in Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine and Class,
p. 146.

134
the dishes were identical:
Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
p. 45.

134
White House kitchen:
Ibid., p. 140.

134
“no schmier”:
Liebling,
Between Meals,
pp. 8, 16, 131.

135
versus unsweet:
R. Barthes, “Towards a Psychology of Contemporary Food Consumption,” in Forster and Ranum,
Food and Drink in History,
pp. 166-73.

135
limit waste:
M. L. De Vault,
Feeding the Family: The Social Organization of Caring As Gendered Work
(Chicago, 1991).

135
“seldom horse”:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 21.

135
“bits you can't eat”:
Menander, quoted in ibid., p. 21.

136
“eating anything”:
Archestratus, quoted in ibid., p. 159.

136
to be repatriated:
Jansen,
Food and Nutrition in Fiji,
ii, 191-208.

136
to them repulsive:
Levenstein,
Revolution at the Table,
p. vii.

136
“sight of bread”:
Quoted in Coe,
America's First Cuisine,
p. 28.

136
“such a thing”:
Ibid., p. 126.

136
“eating our food”:
F. Fernández-Armesto,
The Empire of Philip II: A Decade at the Edge
(London, 1998).

138
fried chicken:
S. Zubaida, “National, Communal and Global Dimensions in Middle Eastern Food Cultures,” in Zubaida and Tapper,
Culinary Cultures of the Middle East,
pp. 33-48, at p. 41.

139
“make with olive oil”:
A. de Bernáldez,
Memorias del reinado de los Reyes Católicos,
ed. A. Gómez-Moreno and J. M. Carriazo (Madrid, 1962), pp. 96-98.

140
recipe books:
A. E. Algar,
Classical Turkish Cooking
(New York, 1991), pp. 57-58.

141
rose to 1,370:
Ibid., p. 28.

144
classic bredie:
Van der Post,
African Cooking,
pp. 131-51.

145
baboons and monkeys:
Darwin,
Variation of Animals and Plants,
i, 309.

145
“very excellent”:
Elisha Kane, medical officer in Franklin relief expedition, 1850, quoted in Levenstein,
Paradox of Plenty,
p. 228.

146
boiled snake and black rice:
A. Lamb,
The Mandarin Road to Old Hue
(London, 1970), p. 45.

147
“methods of preparation”:
G. West and D. West,
By Bus to the Sahara
(London, 1995), pp. 79, 97-100, 149.

147
“economic exile”:
Goody,
Food and Love,
p. 162.

147
nineteenth-century North America:
Cheng,
Musings of a Chinese Gourmet,
p. 24.

148
the “stranger effect”:
F. Fernández-Armesto, “The Stranger-Effect in Early-Modern Asia,”
Itinerario,
xxiv (2000), 8-123.

149
wheat for baking:
Hermippus, quoted in Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 105.

149
“by its products”:
Brillat-Savarin,
Philosopher in the Kitchen,
p. 275.

151
“traded there”:
H. A. R. Gibb and C. F. Beckingham, eds.,
The Travels of Ibn Battuta,
A.D.
1325-1354,
4 vols. (London, 1994) iv, 946-47.

152
agent for Portugal in Amsterdam:
J. Israel,
The Dutch Republic and the Hispanic World
(Oxford, 1982), pp. 25, 45, 92, 123-24, 136, 203, 214, 288-89.

152
without this inducement:
M. Herrero Sánchez,
El acercamiento hispano-neerlandes, 1648-78
(Madrid, 2000), pp. 110-25.

154
easily gulled:
F. Fernández-Armesto,
Columbus
(London, 1996), p. 87.

154
“meat, fruits”:
E. Naville,
The Temple of Deir el Bahari
(London, 1894), pp. 21-25; Fernández-Armesto,
Civilizations,
pp. 224-26.

154
“extraordinary character”:
Agatharchides of Cnidus on the Erythraean Sea,
ed. S. M. Burstein (London, 1989), p. 162.

155
India and Ceylon:
L. Casson, “Cinnamon and Cassia in the Ancient World,” in
Ancient Trade and Society
(Detroit, 1984), pp. 224-41; J. I. Miller,
The Spice Trade of the Roman Empire
(Oxford, 1969), p. 21.

155
outside the empire:
Miller,
Spice Trade,
pp. 34-118; Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 137.

155
poet put it:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 137.

157
fifteenth century:
C. Verlinden,
Les Origines de la civilisation atlantique
(Paris, 1966), p. 167-70.

157
a remote age:
F. Fernández-Armesto,
Before Columbus
(Philadelphia, 1987), p. 198.

157
“we do of sugar”:
J.-B. Buyerin,
De re cibaria
(Lyon, 1560), p. 2.

161
Western expense:
A. Reid,
South-east Asia in the Age of Commerce,
2. vols. (New Haven, 1988-93), i, 277-303; F. Fernández-Armesto,
Millennium
(London, 1999), pp. 303-9.

163
“tired of”:
A. Davidson, ed.,
The Oxford Companion to Food
(Oxford, 1998), s.v.

164
“the only god is love”:
Philibert Commerson in 1769, quoted in R. H. Grove,
Ecological Imperialism: Colonial Expansion, Tropical Island Edens and the Origins of Environmentalism, 1600-1860
(Cambridge, 1996), p. 238.

164
abundance was spectacular:
E. K. Fisk, “Motivation and Modernization,”
Pacific Perspective,
i (1972), 21.

165
preserved in vinegar:
Dalby,
Siren Feasts,
p. 140.

165
plant in antiquity:
Ibid., p. 87.

165
introduction to Britain:
C. A. Dery, “Food and the Roman Army: Travel, Transport and Transmission (with Particular Reference to the Province of Britain),” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 84-96, at p. 91.

166
lived off them:
McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun,
p. 210.

167
“on the environment”:
Grove,
Ecological Imperialism,
p. 93.

167
meaning testicle:
Coe,
America's First Cuisines,
p. 28.

168
to Montezuma's zoo:
Ibid., p. 96.

168
the Irish:
C. T. Sen, “The Portuguese Influence on Bengali Cuisine,” in Walker,
Food on the Move,
pp. 288-98.

169
Red Sea origin:
McNeil,
Something New Under the Sun,
p. 173; F. D. Por, “Lessepsian Migration: An Appraisal and New Data,”
Bulletin de l'Institut Océanique de Monaco,
no. spéc. 7 (1990), pp. 1-7.