Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage (42 page)

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2¼ tsp. (11.25 ml) salt

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) Cure #1

1½ tsp. (7.5 ml) onion granules

1 tsp. (5 ml) paprika

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) white pepper, ground

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) marjoram

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) allspice

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) ginger powder

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) mace or nutmeg

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) sage—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) coriander—packed in the spoon

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) light corn syrup

¼ cup (60 ml) cold tap water

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. 
Grind the liver and the pork butt. Use a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate— the smaller the better. It is best to grind the soft liver first and the harder pork last. (The harder pork cubes will help push the softer liver through the grinder.) Refrigerate the ground meat mixture for about 30 minutes.

2. 
Measure all of the seasonings, water, and powdered milk into a large mixing bowl, and mix thoroughly. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.

3. 
Follow the instructions in
HOW TO EMULSIFY SAUSAGE
near the beginning of this chapter.

4. 
Stuff the emulsified sausage into the prepared fibrous casings. If an electronic thermometer will be used when the sausage is cooked, insert the cable probe into one of the chubs. Close the ends of the chubs with twine. Refrigerate overnight (or for at least a few hours) to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat.

Traditionally, liverwurst is not smoked. Steam cooking is recommended, but it can be poached. Please see Chapter 6 for detailed cooking information.

Mortadella

Bologna and mortadella are often said to be similar, and they are similar in many ways. Both are similarly seasoned, have a large diameter, are Italian in origin, are emulsified, and are made to be eaten cold. But there are differences, too. Mortadella is usually a pork sausage, but bologna is (or should be) a mixture of beef and pork. When bologna is sliced, it is a plain-looking pink sausage, but when mortadella is sliced, chunks of pork fatback and peppercorns are visible. If the mortadella contains olives and pistachios, these ingredients will also be visible in the slices. Mortadella is a mild but attractive sausage. The appeal to the eye competes with the appeal to the palate. In Italy, this sausage is often served as bite-size cubes, but it is also served thinly sliced.

CASINGS

Large casings are used for mortadella—3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm) in diameter, but the 2½-inch (6.4 cm) diameter fibrous casing used for other large sausages in this book will do the job. Three of these casings—each 12 inches (30 cm) long—will be required.

Fibrous casings must be soaked in water for 30 minutes before stuffing. Be sure to fill the casings with warm water.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF MORTADELLA

Prepare 2¼ lbs. (1,020 g) of pork shoulder butt and ¼ lb. (115 g) of pork fat-back. (Instead of pork fatback, medium-hard pork fat from any part of the pig will work.) Cut the pork butt into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes, and cut the fatback into ¼- to ⅝-inch (about 1 cm) cubes.
Keep the fatback cubes in a small bowl, separate from the pork shoulder butt.
Refrigerate these two meats until they are well chilled. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2¼ tsp. (11.25 ml) salt

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) Cure #1

1 tsp. (5 ml) paprika

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) white pepper, ground

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) coriander—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) nutmeg

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) mace

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) garlic granules

⅛ tsp. (0.625 ml) cinnamon

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) good tasting wine—red or white

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) light corn syrup

¼ cup (60 ml) cold tap water

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

1 tsp. (5 ml) whole or cracked black peppercorns

½ cup (120 ml) black olives, pitted and cut in half lengthwise (optional)

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. 
Grind the pork butt with a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate—the smaller the better. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes. (Leave the small cubes of back fat in the refrigerator for the time being.)

2. 
Add the peppercorns (or the cracked peppercorns) to the small bowl containing the cubes of back fat. Cut the pitted black olives in half lengthwise, and put them in the same small bowl with the small cubes of fatback and peppercorns. (The fatback, the olives, and the peppercorns—or cracked peppercorns—will be added to the emulsified sausage paste just before it is stuffed into the casings.)

3. 
Measure the seasoning and other ingredients (except for the meat, black olives, peppercorns, and fatback cubes) into a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Stir until the mixture is uniform; it will be a thin paste. Refrigerate.

4. 
Follow the instructions in
HOW TO EMULSIFY SAUSAGE
near the beginning of this chapter.

5. 
Sprinkle the cut olives, peppercorns, and fatback cubes on the emulsified sausage paste, and knead the mixture until these ingredients are mixed uniformly with the paste. Stuff this emulsified sausage into the prepared fibrous casings. If an electronic thermometer will be used when the sausage is cooked, insert the cable probe into one of the chubs. Close the ends of the chubs with twine. Refrigerate overnight (or at least a few hours) to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use an uncovered container with a paper towel placed over the chubs.
6.
If the mortadella will be smoked, please see Chapter 7. (Cold smoking followed by steaming is recommended.) If it will be cooked without smoking, please see Chapter 6.

Olive Loaf

Olive loaf was once one of the popular luncheon meats, but it is being pushed off the shelf by the fancy, thinly sliced ham, turkey, chicken, and beef lunch-meats. Depending on where you live and where you shop, you may be able to find it. It is a shame that many young people have never tasted it.

The main feature of this lunchmeat is the numerous green olives (stuffed with pimento) embedded in the loaf, so it is an acquired taste. People who do not like the sour-bitter taste of green olives will not like this product, but that unique taste is a treat for those of us who do.

Olive loaf may be processed in a bread loaf pan and steamed—please see
Sausage Loaf (Lunchmeat Loaf)
in Chapter 6. If fibrous casings are preferred, the instructions are given below.

Olive loaf is not smoked.

CASINGS

If the olive loaf will be processed in casings, the 2½-inch (6.4 cm) diameter fibrous casings used for other large sausages in this book will do the job. Three of these casings, each 12 inches (30 cm) long, will be required.

Fibrous casings must be soaked in water for 30 minutes before stuffing. Be sure to fill the casings with warm water.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF OLIVE LOAF

Prepare 1 lb. (450 g) of beef chuck and 1½ lbs. (680 g) of pork shoulder butt. Cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the meat until it is well chilled. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2¼ tsp. (11.25 ml) salt ½ tsp. (2.5 ml) Cure #1 1 tsp. (5 ml) paprika

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) white pepper, ground

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) coriander—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) nutmeg

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) mace

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) garlic granules

⅛ tsp. (0.625) celery seed, ground

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) good tasting white wine

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) light corn syrup

¼ cup (60 ml) cold tap water

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

1 cup (240 ml) green olives, whole, stuffed (see instruction No. 2, below)

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. 
Grind the meat with a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate—the smaller the better. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

2. 
Cut each olive into quarters, place the quarters in a small bowl, and refrigerate. Measure the seasoning and other ingredients (except for the meat and green olives) into a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Stir until the mixture is uniform; it will be a thin paste. Refrigerate until well chilled. (The olives will be added to the emulsified sausage paste just before it is stuffed into the casings or put into the loaf pan.)

3. 
Follow the instructions in
HOW TO EMULSIFY SAUSAGE
near the beginning of this chapter.

4. 
Sprinkle the green olives on the emulsified sausage paste, and knead until they are mixed uniformly. Stuff this emulsified sausage into the prepared fibrous casings. If an electronic thermometer will be used when the sausage is cooked, insert the cable probe into one of the chubs. Close the ends of the chubs with twine. Refrigerate overnight (or at least a few hours) to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use an uncovered container with a paper towel placed over the chubs.

5. 
If the sausage has been stuffed in fibrous casings, poaching or steaming is recommended. Please see Chapter 6.

Pickle and Pimento Loaf

Pickle and pimento loaf was a popular lunchmeat, but it is difficult to find nowadays. It is simple to make if the easy-to-master technique of emulsification has been learned. I am sure you will find that this homemade version is superior to the commercial product.

Pickle and pimento loaf may be processed in a bread loaf pan and steamed— please see
Sausage Loaf (Lunchmeat Loaf)
in Chapter 6. If fibrous casings are preferred, the instructions for using them are given below.

Pickle and pimento loaf is not smoked.

CASINGS

If the pickle and pimento loaf will be processed in a casing, the 2½-inch (6.4 cm) diameter fibrous casing used for other large sausages in this book will do the job. Three of these casings—each 12 inches (30 cm) long—will be required.

Fibrous casings must be soaked in water for 30 minutes before stuffing. Be sure to fill the casings with warm water.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF PICKLE AND PIMENTO LOAF

Prepare 1 lb. (450 g) of pork shoulder butt and 1½ lbs. (680 g) of beef chuck. Cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes, and refrigerate them until they are well chilled. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) Cure #1

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) coriander—packed in the spoon

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) white pepper