“They have a nice buffet, with omelets made the way you prefer, or you can order from the menu.”
“The buffet will be fine.”
“For me, as well.”
When the waiter came to take their drink orders, Lynn ordered hot tea. He told her there were tea bags on the buffet next to the hot water.
“You
’ll want to try Coca tea once we get to Cusco. It will give you energy at the much higher altitude,” Alex suggested.
“
I read that Cusco sits at 11,000 feet. Should we be having Coca tea now, before we leave the coastal area?”
“It isn’t necessary
. Coca tea helps those who stay in Cusco for several days. The altitude usually affects them at night. Lying flat makes it harder to breathe and to get blood to the brain.”
“I’ll have to remember to use several pillows!”
They went to the buffet. Lynn was surprised to find vegetables as well as fruits there, plus sweet breads, and a chef waiting to take orders for omelets. That’s what she wanted. She asked him for ham, cheese, peppers, and tomatoes. While the omelet was cooking, she remembered a warning in her guide book about not eating fresh fruit and vegetables in Peru unless they were peeled and properly cleaned. This was a really nice hotel, so she didn’t worry about her omelet being anything but safe to eat.
While the omelet cooked, she selected a cup, filled it with hot water,
then added a tea bag. In Cusco, she’d definitely try the Coca tea.
Her omelet was ready.
Alex had filled his plate with vegetables and fruits and added a sweet roll. They went back to their table. While they exchanged information and thoughts about Caral and what they’d see there this morning, he glanced at his cell phone several times.
The third time, he said,
“Will you excuse me, please? I have to make sure the hotel has everyone checked out.”
“I’ll be finished in a minute.”
Lynn watched him leave the restaurant. He was dressed simply, in jeans and a black sweatshirt. His white hat lay on his back, the cord around his neck, revealing black, curly hair. He was quite handsome. When she turned back, she saw the others smiling at her.
“Did you
have coffee or tea?” she asked them.
“Tea!”
“Coffee!”
They held up their cups
. Sharon lifted hers as a salute, which made Lynn blush again. She had to stop blushing! There was absolutely nothing to blush about!
<><><><>
Lynn insisted on getting on the bus without help when they boarded for Caral. Alex’s smile included some amusement this time. He was obviously pleased that she was feeling more rested and eager to explore the Caral ruins. In sunshine!
They went miles and miles within Lima
. Lynn was used to driving in big cities, but she’d never driven in one this big—and never would! More than eight million people lived in the Lima Province.
T
hey were still under cloud cover and engulfed in fog, with the temperature in the low 60s, just as it had been yesterday. They passed hundreds of small, poorly constructed houses on the hillsides that looked as if a strong wind would send them sliding down to the road. Most had sheets of cloth covering the windows. Crumbling roofs and walls often went unrepaired. On some roofs, clotheslines had been strung with clothes hanging there to dry, collecting the dirt and exhaust that covered everything in the city. Stray dogs wandered everywhere, but very few people were evident. Lynn assumed most of the people were at work, and the children in school. How crowded would all these houses be after work hours? She could see from remnants of paint that the buildings had once been painted bright colors, but it was obvious the paint had worn really thin in the foggy winter climate.
After an hour and a half, t
he bus stopped for a restroom break. The restrooms weren’t in a business, though. They were in a low, worn building of their own, with a man standing guard over the entrances. Alex paid the man so they could use the facilities. Lynn had read that tourists should bring tissue with them because the bathrooms might not have any.
Back on the bus, Lynn whispered to Sharon, “That’s the first time I’ve seen toilets without
seats!”
“Me, too.
Remind me to re-stock my purse with tissue!”
As they got closer to Caral, they began to see patches of green that looked like moss.
Lynn took a deep breath and realized what a relief it was to see something other than brown. Vegetation increased the farther they traveled from the city. Eventually, they were driving past cultivated fields in valleys, surrounded by desert-like terrain. A river ran down the center of the valley, providing water for crops, but only for a short distance into the dry land beyond. They also passed chicken farms with adobe fences, then barreled up a road that was so rough they bounced in their seats! It was impossible to take pictures through the windows because of the speed of the bus and the bouncing they did over the ruts in the dirt roads. But a miracle had occurred! They’d climbed out of the fog. Sunshine at last!
Chapter 7
C
loser to Caral, Lynn saw a man walking in a field that seemed to be planted with two different crops. There were cows on one side of the dividing line, but not on the other side. The man had a long stick in his hand, which he waved at any of the cows that turned as though intending to cross the line. She wondered if he walked back and forth all day long, keeping the cows out of the other crop? They passed so quickly, she didn’t have time to ask Alex, who was talking about something else on the other side of the bus.
Lynn realized she’d “woken up”
from her slump and actually felt like smiling again, without having to encourage herself to do it. The bus parked near some buildings that looked like a long, curved market, but there were almost no vendors. Only a few people had opened their shops for tourists today, and they got the full attention of the group.
Sharon bought a canvas vest with a Caral logo patch on one side.
Vicki, Sheila, and the others looked at t-shirts, jewelry, and other souvenirs. Lynn wasn’t interested in buying anything here. She wanted to save her money for Cusco and Machu Picchu. Right now, she just wanted to see the pyramids.
Within ten minutes, Alex was waving to everyone to
gather so the tour could begin.
Alex escorted them through the ruins, pointing out each of the eight pyramids and
describing what archaeologists had determined was most likely their function in the city. There were three round, sunken plazas where Lynn pictured vendors and buyers gathered. Three thousand years ago, the city of Caral had been home to thousands of people. Being there was a heady experience.
Lynn basked in the strong sunshine, turning slowly, trying to imagine what it had been like to live in Caral when the pyramids were being built.
The majestic peaks of the Andes gave the city a majesty she could feel
The pyramids of Caral had been dated to 3000 BCE.
Some of the Caral pyramids had crumbled while others still remained fairly intact. According to Alex, the largest pyramid covered an area the size of four American football fields! It stood today as a sentinel for the great city. Surrounded by mountains, Lynn realized it must have felt like living in heaven.
She closed her eyes, picturing people among the pyramids, laughing, talking,
loving their home. When she opened her eyes, Alex stood nearby, watching her.
“What are you thinking?” he asked.
“How wonderful it must have been to live here.”
He nodded.
“I have thought the same thing, many times. These pyramids had special meaning for the people who lived here. They were built as part of their religion. What better place to honor the Great Spirit than on a wide mesa surrounded by mountains?”
She had to agree.
After completing the tour, they headed for the bus. Lynn had chosen a blue knit top with a scooped neckline this morning. The back of her neck felt hot.
Sharon came up behind her.
“Don’t scratch! You got your wish today! You’ve gotten some sun and it’s glowing bright red on your pale skin!”
Lynn hadn’t scratched—just rubbed her neck—but the stinging pain of sunburn
was unmistakable.
“Who would’ve thought, after all that fog, that I’d end up with
a sunburn today?” She thought about it a few seconds. “I love it!”
Back on the bus, Lynn settled into the seat with a sigh of contentment.
She couldn’t wait to describe to her students what it had meant to her to be at Caral. She realized, looking between the seats, that Alex was smiling at her again. This time, his smile conveyed contentment as well as happiness. He’d succeeded by taking her to a place she loved—exactly what an excellent guide was hired to do. She’d have to tell him at lunch how much she appreciated his knowledge of Peru’s special places, and his willingness to devote his life to sharing that knowledge with others.
Alex had an announcement that seemed to make him really happy. “We have reservations at a special restaurant on the coast for lunch today. They won a contest for the best
ceviche
!”
Lynn saw how excited Alex was about getting to have “the best
ceviche
.” He really loved this national dish!
<><><><>
They arrived at the restaurant at 2:00. The sign out front displayed the boast along with the name of the owner—Fernando Davila.
Jota Resobar
Barranca
was right on the beach of the Pacific Ocean, and socked in with 100% cloud cover, like Lima.
Inside, they sat
at a long wooden table with wooden chairs. A television mounted in the corner of the room hung out from the wall, almost over one end of the table. A television spot featuring the restaurant and its designation of “best
ceviche
” played over and over in an endless loop. Lynn wished the volume could be turned down, but Fernando Davila came out to greet them—and turned up the volume. To make sure they watched the part where he was featured, he pointed at the screen, nodding and mumbling something about what an honor it had been to win the contest.
Lynn sat near the
far end of the table on the side next to the wall so she could see the ocean through the front windows. The menu, as before at the Larco Restaurant, listed foods that had been approved for the tour.
Ceviche
was first in the list, of course, and it was no surprise when Alex ordered it. Lynn chose the fried seafood. They also had Coca Cola, Sprite, beer, and, of course, Pisco Sours. Lynn ordered a Coke with ice. That was another thing she’d learned from the guide book. Soft drinks were served cold, but not with ice unless the customer requested it. Several others asked for Coke or Sprite—with ice.
The food was delicious—and plentiful!
Alex’s plate was piled high with
ceviche
, just as Lynn’s plate was filled with seafood—shrimp, fish, and oysters—and fried sweet potatoes. Incredible! Once again, Alex had chosen the chair adjacent to Lynn’s. They tried to talk about Caral while they ate, but the television drowned all attempts at conversation. When Fernando went back into the kitchen, Alex turned the volume down so they wouldn’t have to talk over it.
After lunch, they walked on the beach for a few minutes before boarding the bus again.
Alex strolled close to Lynn. When his hand brushed hers, she stepped closer to him so it would happen again. The next time, he took her hand and didn’t let go.
On the way back to the hotel, t
hey got stuck in traffic for an extra hour. People had swarmed into the city by the thousands for the festival planned for Saturday. It seemed the celebration had already begun. By the time they finally reached the hotel, they were ready for some rest before a late dinner at the hotel restaurant, on their own.
After collapsing on their beds for half an hour, Lynn and Sharon went down to the restaurant and sat with Cathi, Barb, Vicki, Dorothy, BJ and Sheila, who were already there,
looking at menus.
<><><><>
Alex had seen the ladies come out of the elevator and go into the restaurant, followed soon after by Lynn and Sharon. He started to get up to join them.
The driver’s
quiet laughter caught his attention. “It would seem that you like one of the
turistas
more than the others.”
“Why would you say that?”
He only smiled and went to the bar to order another drink.
The remark bothered him until he realized
it was true. Alex had to be more careful to pay attention to each of the lovely ladies in the group, and not only to Lynn. He didn’t want to be accused of favoritism again, by anyone. He headed for the elevator and went up to his room.
<><><><>
They were up early again the next morning for breakfast, then went straight to the airport for their flight to Cusco. It took more than an hour to get there because of the traffic.
They checked in
with Peruvian Airlines this time. The procedure was easy, thanks to Alex’s tour documentation, with all their names and flight reservations. They had to provide their passports again, just as they had at customs the first night, then at the hotel in Lima. No one ever asked to see a driver’s license, which made sense. Passports were the primary identification for tourists. Per the guide book’s recommendation, Lynn and Sharon had copied the pages of their passports and carried those copies in a separate place from their passports, just in case that valuable piece of ID should be lost.
The flight took an hour and a half.
Since they were flying above the clouds, and since Lynn sat by a window, she was able to glimpse the grandeur of the Andes through the clouds from time to time. She had seen beautiful mountains in the US, but the Andes were grand in a completely different way. They weren’t as rugged, at least for the most part, and the huge mountains in the range seemed smoother and more uniform in shape and size than the Rockies. They also seemed to soar straight up from the valleys below instead of spreading out at the bottom into foothills, as the Rockies did.
About halfway through the flight, Sharon got up to go to the restroom.
As soon as she’d left, Alex moved into her seat next to Lynn.
“They’re beautiful, aren’t they?” he asked, leaning closer to her to see the mountains out the window.
“Incredible.”
Without looking
directly at her, Alex picked up Lynn’s hand and laced his fingers with hers. “It is an honor to share my beautiful country with you, Sunshine.”
She gave him a puzzled look.
“It is a perfect name for you. Your hair, your eyes, your personality all shine like the sun. Thank you for coming to Peru.” He kissed her hand.
She
still didn’t know what to say.
Sharon got back about then.
Alex stood and stepped back to make room for her to sit down. “I can’t stop being a guide for even one flight.” He went back to his seat.
Lynn could tell
from Sharon’s smile that she’d seen them holding hands, but she didn’t say anything. Lynn was glad. She gazed out the window again, and could still feel Alex’s hand holding hers.
<><><><>
In Cusco, they left the airport and stepped into brilliant sunshine among buildings painted in a rainbow of colors, with people everywhere, dressed in colorful clothing and costumes. With the festival only a few days away, everyone had gotten totally into the spirit of celebration, with music, laughter, and happiness evident everywhere they looked.
Lynn breathed a sigh of relief.
This was the Peru she’d come to see! Everything about Cusco matched the photographs she’d seen, and her impressions of what being in Peru really meant.
Alex welcomed them to
Cusco—his home. “You’ll notice that every building has a red tile roof. There is a law that requires all the roofs in Cusco to be red tile, because it enhances the beauty of the city.”
The bus they’d be using in Cusco was much larger and more comfortable than the one in Lima.
There was no need for anyone to sit next to anyone else. They all sat next to the windows to give them an excellent view.
One of the first things Lynn noticed was the traffic.
It wasn’t nearly as congested or frantic as Lima’s traffic had been. Thank goodness! They had a new driver who smiled more than the one in Lima. Alex introduced him as Rudolfo. He seemed a lot more relaxed than the driver they’d had in Lima, and that was completely understandable.
<><><><>
After lunch, they wandered through the crowd, looking into shop windows the best they could with hundreds of people gathered for the celebration.
Lynn stopped suddenly.
“Oh! I almost stepped on him!” An old dark brown dog, gray around the muzzle, obviously well-fed, lay sprawled on the ground. His eyes opened, then fluttered closed again after hearing Lynn’s exclamation. “Who does he belong to?”
Alex pushed his way to where she was standing.
“He belongs to everyone. He’s a stray, without a family, so everyone becomes his family and takes care of him.”
“That’s wonderful!”
She wanted to pet the dog but thought better of it. He was sleeping peacefully, even in the midst of the chaos of music and happy people laughing and chattering. He clearly wasn’t disturbed by the crowd noise.
“If you’d gone with us to the top of the pyramid at
Pachacamac, you would’ve seen dogs there, too. They live at the top, where there is no food or water for them. But those who work at the site take food and water to them, and put sweaters on them to keep them warm in the winter. Peruvians love their dogs.”
“Do they have names?”
“Yes. They all have the same name—
Perro.”
Everyone laughed.
Lynn gave Alex a happy smile, and he returned it. She noticed, though, that his smile vanished when he turned away to look for something else he could point out to the group.
So it had come to that.
Sharon had told her everyone knew about their attraction to each other, but Alex didn’t know that they knew. That was probably best.