Ramen—The Japanese version of Chinese noodles in soup. In the U.S. it is known primarily in its dried, “instant” style and is sold in little cellophane packages with a small packet of powdered broth. If fresh ramen noodles are available (and contain no eggs), a stint in the kitchen producing steaming hot bowls of real ramen would prove quite worth the simple effort.
Renkon—Lotus root. Must be peeled before use. If not used immediately, immerse in water to prevent discoloration resulting from oxidation.
Rice vinegar (Su, O-Su)—A very mild vinegar used to make dressings, pickles, and sauces. Available plain and seasoned with sea salt and a small amount of sugar.
Sake (O-sake)—Wine made from rice. Although the impression that many people have of sake is that it is always drunk hot, sake can be enjoyed either warm or cold. The best sakes, made by microwineries in Japan, are in fact most often enjoyed chilled. There are many varieties with different degrees of sweetness or dryness, as well as flavor. For cooking purposes, there is no need to buy an expensive bottle of sake; Japanese grocery stores carry magnums of perfectly adequate sake for $5 to $6.
Sansho—A slightly spicy Japanese herb, usually found in powdered form and sprinkled on
unagi
(eel).
Sashimi (O-sashimi)—Raw fish served with soy sauce and wasabi. The only vegetarian equivalent would be a high-quality konnyaku (page 25), thinly sliced. Some supermarkets in Japan feature delicately textured white or green konnyaku meant to be served sliced with
wasabi-joyu
(wasabi and soy sauce) in the style of sashimi.
Senbei (O-senbei)—Japanese rice crackers made from glutinous rice. The varieties are endless for this most delicious treat, an excellent snack with green tea. A classic example would be
nori senbei,
a rice cracker glazed in soy sauce and wrapped in nori. They are crunchy, tasty, and usually close to fat-free.
Sesame Oil—See goma-abura, page 24. In choosing sesame oil, always buy the dark toasted variety, not the clear oil made from raw sesame seeds.
Shamoji—A small wooden paddle-like utensil used for serving rice. Before using, a shamoji is dipped in water so that the rice will not stick to it. It is also used for “fluffing up” the rice before serving.
Shichimi-togarashi—A mixture of seven Japanese spicy peppers. It can be sprinkled in dishes to add heat and is often served with soba or udon noodles.
Shiitake—Black mushrooms. Available either fresh or dried. In purchasing shiitake, either fresh or dried, look for mushrooms that have the thickest looking caps. The highest quality, called
donko shiitake,
are far meatier, more flavorful, and silkier in texture than their thinner cousins. Dried donko shiitake will have caps that have deep cracks in them. To reconstitute dried shiitake, soak in cold or tepid water for several hours or overnight. Reconstituting in hot water expedites the process but sacrifices some of the flavor. The water used for soaking forms the base for delicious soups, dashi (stock), and sauces. Leftover reconstituted shiitake and the soaking liquid can be kept refrigerated for about a week.
Shinko (O-shinko)—Japanese pickles made from various vegetables. Served with most meals as an aid to digestion.
Shirataki—White or grayish noodles made from
konnyaku
(page 25). Like konnyaku, shirataki contains no calories and is a boon for dieters. Shirataki absorbs the flavors of the sauce or broth that it is simmered in, and is thus used for
sukiyaki.
Shiso (O-shiso)—Perilla leaves or beefsteak plant leaves. A cousin of our basil,
shiso
is a highly decorative and fragrant herb with a hint of mint. Equally befitting Japanese and Western dishes, the beautiful large leaves can be ground into a shiso pesto sauce or rolled up with avocado and natto to make a delicious sushi. There are numerous recipes here with shiso. Although I lack a green thumb and have not been successful growing much of anything, my mother has found that shiso is very easy to grow. This is a good idea for someone living in an area where it is not available since it is such a delightful and versatile herb.
Shoyu (O-shoyu)—Japanese soy sauce. Japanese soy sauce is traditionally made from soy beans, wheat, and sea salt through a natural fermentation process. Shoyu is the essential seasoning in Japanese cuisine; trying to cook Japanese food without soy sauce would be tantamount to cooking authentic French food without butter. The most widely available, high-quality soy sauce in the U.S. is Kikkoman. In Japan, many varieties exist with a wide range of prices, although most households use Kikkoman or equivalent brands. The Japanese soy sauce most commonly found here is referred to as
koi-kuchi shoyu,
or “dark-taste soy sauce.”
Although it can be universally used for any dish in this book, its cousin,
usu-kuchi shoyu
(light-taste soy sauce, which is paler in color though saltier in taste), is preferable for
suimono
(clear soup) where a dark color is not desirable.
For those with wheat allergies,
tamari-joyu
(tamari) is available in most natural food stores. Tamari is made only from soybeans and has a darker, richer flavor.
Soba (O-soba)—Japanese noodles made with a high percentage of buckwheat flour. Most soba noodles contain wheat as well, since buckwheat lacks the gluten to produce the elasticity desired. Soba made from 100 percent buckwheat flour is called
ju-wari soba;
80% buckwheat noodles are called
hachi-wari soba.
Unless this is written on the package, assume most soba on the market is made with far less buckwheat flour. Soba can be served hot in broth or cold, dipped in sauce. Although fresh soba noodles are sometimes available, they are most readily available dried.
Somen—Japanese vermicelli, white, often with a few colored strands (such as pink) thrown in for aesthetics. Generally slurped up icy cold during the hot summer months.
Sosu (O-sosu or Tonkatsu sosu)—This borrowed term for sauce has taken on new meaning in Japan. “Sauce,” a thick, brown concoction with a flavor resembling Worcestershire sauce, is as ubiquitous in Japan as soy sauce. It is served over
tonkatsu
(deep-fried pork),
kushi-age
(fried skewered foods), and other items that have typically been coated in bread crumbs and deep-fried, as well as
okonomiyaki
(Japanese savory pancakes) and
yaki-soba
(fried noodles). No Japanese kitchen would be complete without it. Available in many brands and, principally, three different viscosities (thin, regular, and thick—their use depending on the flavors desired or type of dish being prepared).
Soy sauce—See shoyu, page 31.
Su (O-su)—Vinegar, typically rice vinegar. Rice vinegar has a low acidity and is thus very mild. Dressings made with rice vinegar require less oil to balance the acidity.
Suimono (O-suimono)—Literally “water dish,” this is the Japanese equivalent of consommé. Often served in place of miso soup.
Su-no-mono—Literally translates as “vinegared dish.” It includes raw vegetables, sea vegetables, and seafood tossed with a vinegar-based dressing and served as an appetizer or side dish.
Suribachi—A Japanese ceramic mortar and wooden pestle. The mortar has grooves which facilitate grinding and smashing seeds and nuts.
Sushi (O-sushi)—Probably the most popular Japanese dish in America! Sweet, vinegared rice formed into small cakes and topped with various types of raw fish, vegetables, or eggs. Vegetarian sushi featuring cucumber, shiitake, avocado, and other vegetables are also popular (see pages 48-51).
Takenoko—Bamboo shoots. Available fresh or canned, although fresh is far superior.
Takuan—Pickled daikon radish, often colored with yellow food coloring. Natural takuan is hard to find, although it is generally superior in flavor.
Teriyaki—A marinade or sauce made from soy sauce, sugar or other sweetener, and mirin. Many types of food can be made teriyaki-style.
Tofu (O-tofu)—Perhaps the most misunderstood food in America, tofu has had a long and reputable history in Japan. It has long been touted as a health food, promoting longevity and aiding in weight loss. Recent studies here have shown tofu to be rich in phytoestrogens that help prevent breast and ovarian cancer. Made in a similar manner to cheese, tofu is the product of pressing the curds that have separated from the whey in coagulated soymilk. Americans might call it bland; the Japanese prefer to think of it as delicate in flavor. Although different consistencies of tofu can be found in the United States ranging from soft to very firm, Japanese tofu is generally what might be labeled “regular” or firm. There are two types of tofu in Japan: momen (cotton) and kinugoshi (silk-strained; silken). They are made in a slightly different manner with different results, the former being the more common “regular” tofu that is usually found fresh in American markets, and the latter, the ultrasmooth, silky type that often comes in aseptic boxes (widely distributed by Mori-Nu). Silken tofu, unlike regular tofu, is not pressed. Unless silken tofu has been specified in a recipe, use regular tofu. Always choose fresh tofu; if it has a sharp smell, it will probably taste sour.
Tonkatsu sauce—See sosu, page 32.
Tororo-konbu—Sea vegetable shavings with a slightly acidic, salty flavor. Can be served as an instant soup by adding hot water and a dash of soy sauce.
Tsukemono (O-Tsukemono)—Japanese pickled vegetables. See
Shinko (O-shinko).
Tsuyu (O-tsuyu)—A soup or broth for noodles or a thin sauce for dipping noodles or other items.
Ten-tsuyu
is a dipping sauce for tempura.
Udon—Fat, white flour noodles made from wheat.
Umeboshi—Salty pickled plums made from a particular variety of Japanese plums (not the sweet variety that typically grows here). Said to kill stomach viruses and aid in digestion, it is often given during illness along with o-kayu (rice gruel). During World War II, an o-bento (lunch box) with rice and a single umeboshi plum in the center represented the Japanese flag and was often all some citizens ate. Try to find some without red food coloring. They are generally paler in color.
Wakame—A dark green, common sea vegetable often served in miso soup or salads. It can be purchased dried or fresh-packed in sea salt. If purchasing dried wakame, look or ask for “cut wakame” or “salad wakame,” which is more tender than the type in long strands. The “cut” or “salad” variety reconstitutes much faster and can be thrown as is into your miso soup, while the type in long strands must first be soaked, cut, and then sometimes simmered if it is especially tough. The cut variety expands about 8 to 10 fold, so watch the portions! If fresh wakame is used, be sure to rinse out the sea salt, then soak and rinse again.
Wasabi—A green Japanese horseradish with a pungent flavor. A big dab will overwhelm all but the staunchest horseradish aficionados! Wasabi is a natural accompaniment to sushi and soy sauce. It is usually sold in a powdered form that is mixed with a small amount of water to form a paste, but can also be found in tubes. Fresh wasabi, however, is incomparable in flavor and fragrance, although it is virtually impossible to come by in the United States.
Wasabi-joyu
is soy sauce with wasabi.
Yaki-do—Grilled tofu. Sold in plastic packages, it is a firm-textured tofu with distinct grill marks on it.
Yama-imo—Mountain yam. Long, tan, hairy tubers that are peeled, then grated or sliced.
Yuba—A soy product made by removing and drying the skin that forms on soymilk when it is heated. Usually sold in a dried form in plastic packages, it is very fragile. It must be reconstituted to form a soft consistency before being used. If available, Chinese yuba is often sold in frozen form and is sturdier.
Yuzu—An aromatic Japanese citrus fruit, used primarily for its fragrant rind. Lemons or limes can be substituted but will give different results.
Rice Dishes
Gohan
G
ohan,
the Japanese word for rice, is also the word for meal. It signifies the importance of this highly revered grain to the Japanese people. The rice eaten by Japanese today is white short grain and slightly sticky, with the best varieties having a sheen to them. It forms the foundation of almost every meal, and most traditional Japanese dishes are designed to be consumed with it. Most Japanese who go too long without Japanese rice (while travelling, for example) grow lonely for it.
U
ntil the Edo period (late 19th century), only the nobility consumed polished white rice. Due to the lack of B vitamins in white rice, noble-men began to fall ill with beri beri. Still, the general populace adopted similar eating habits, and today it is extremely difficult to procure brown rice in Japan. I lived next to a neighborhood rice store where rice was polished and sold everyday, and yet I could not convince the owner to sell me brown rice. In fact, he was incredulous the first time I asked. Many people of my mother’s generation shudder when they recall having to endure the dreariness of brown rice during wartime.
Today, there is a small but growing movement towards more sustainable agriculture and a natural diet in Japan. Cooperatives are springing up everywhere, making the availability of the natural grain greater than ever before.