Read Japanese Cooking - Contemporary & Traditional Online

Authors: Miyoko Nishimoto Schinner

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Japanese Cooking - Contemporary & Traditional (16 page)

¼ cup mirin
Grated fresh ginger and/or daikon (optional)
 
This famous and wonderful Japanese dish, like sushi, is so highly regarded by the Japanese that people rarely make it at home, leaving it to highly skilled chefs at tempura restaurants. Very good tempura can be expensive, too, but so delicate, light, and tasty that one finds it difficult to believe that it is just vegetables with batter. In no way does it taste like onion rings.
 
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
The three important points to remember are:
1. Mix the batter ever so lightly;
2. Have the oil at the proper temperature;
3. Never crowd the fryer.
 
Have all your ingredients ready before you begin frying so that you can dip, fry, and drain quickly and systematically. For deep-frying, refined oil usually work best. Never reuse frying oil as it not only imparts an unpleasant flavor but is not good for one’s health.
 
Tempura is a perfect balance of vegetables coated with just the right amount of batter and deep-fried to a light, crispy perfection. It is then dipped in a soy-based sauce and eaten together with rice. Altogether, it can be a heavenly experience. On the other hand, bad tempura will usually have more batter than the star ingredient inside and be oily and soggy. It is all in the technique of preparation and cooking, and can be duplicated at home once a few tricks are mastered.
 
Wash and drain or dry the vegetables and cut them into sizes that can be eaten in 2 to 3 bites. Onions and carrots are usually combined with the last of the batter and fried in clumps, so save them for last. Have all the vegetables ready for dipping and frying.
Start heating the oil to around 350°F Mix the flour, cornstarch, baking soda, and water gently, leaving in some of the lumps and making sure that you do not over mix it. Test the oil for frying—a small bit of batter dropped in the oil should sink and rise to the surface fairly quickly. If the batter sinks and does not rise, or rises very slowly, the oil is not hot enough. If it hardly sinks before sizzling at the surface, the oil is too hot. Dip the vegetables in the batter one piece at a time, and fry immediately. Do not fry any more vegetables at one time than will cover half the surface of the oil or the temperature of the oil may drop, and you will end up with soggy pieces of tempura. Fry until golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and drain and continue with the remaining vegetables, mixing up more batter if necessary. Onion slices and thin carrot sticks can be combined with the last of the batter and be fried in clumps.
 
While the vegetables are frying, combine the stock, soy sauce, and mirin, and heat until boiling. Turn down the heat and simmer gently for 2 or 3 minutes.
 
To serve, pour about a third of a cup of the tempura sauce in individual bowls. A little grated ginger or daikon may be added at this time if desired—remove excess water first by wringing with your hands. Dip the tempura vegetables in the sauce and enjoy with rice.
“Fishy” Tempura Tempeh
 
8 ounces tempeh
cup soy sauce
2 sheets nori
Tempura batter
Oil for frying
 
Cut the tempeh into ¼-inch strips and marinate in the soy sauce for at least 20 minutes. Cut the nori into pieces as long as the tempeh strips and wide enough to wrap around them completely with a little extra for overlap. Wrap each tempeh strip in the nori, using a dab or two of the tempura batter to “glue” the nori in place. Dip each piece of nori-wrapped tempeh in the tempura batter and deep fry in oil at 375°F until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
 
Here is an idea for tempura that adds substance, texture, and variety to a platter of vegetable tempura. Tempeh strips are wrapped in nori, dipped in tempura batter, and fried until crispy. The result is a meaty substance with flavors of the sea

a great vegan addition to tempura veggies. If you tell someone from Japan what you’re eating, however, they will be baffled, since tempeh is not found in Japan.
 
Yield: 3 to 4 servings
Tempura of Julienne Vegetables
 
Kaki-Age
 
1 cup thinly sliced onions
1 cup julienne (slivered) carrots
About 2 cups more vegetables, cut julienne or slivered (zucchini, broccoli stalks, asparagus, sweet potato, shiitake mushrooms, etc.)
Slivered nori or shiso leaves (optional)
Pinch baking soda
1¼ cups all-purpose or cake flour
1¼ cups ice water
Oil for frying
 
Prepare the vegetables, cutting them as thinly as possible into slivers or julienne. Combine in a bowl. In another bowl, mix the baking soda into the flour, and make a well in the center. Pour in the ice water, and combine rapidly to mix; do not worry about lumps. Pour over the vegetable mixture, and mix gently and quickly. Do not over mix.
Heat the oil in a wok fryer to 375°F, or until a piece of vegetable floats steadily but immediately to the top. Depending on the size of the frying utensil, drop in the mixture by the half-cupful or so, making sure that no more than half of the surface is covered. With a pair of chopsticks, quickly spread out the mixture slightly and gently in the oil, so that it does not make too thick of a cake. Fry to a golden brown, turning once. Drain well. Serve with
Ten-Tsuyu
(Tempura Sauce), pages 90-92.
 
A medley of thinly slivered vegetables, primarily root vegetables, are held together by tempura batter and deep-fried into little cakes. This allows the cook to vary the medley with different vegetable combinations, as well as “season” it by adding ingredients such as slivered shiso leaves, nori, or sesame seeds. Although here I describe more of a method rather than an exact recipe, the important point is not to use too much batter or to overmix. Over-bandling will yield a heavy cake with lots of doughy batter. Be light-banded with both the amount of tempura batter you mix in and how you combine it with the vegetables.
 
Crispy Fried Tempeh
 
Kara-Age Tempeh
 
8 ounces tempeh or “chicken-flavored” seitan
cup soy sauce

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