How to Cook Like a Man (25 page)

Audrey's face brightens, and she says one of those amazing things kids often say. She says, “Will you make that for us, Dada?”

Knowing she's got me, and that my life has finally come full circle, I say, “Absolutely, kiddo. I'd love to make my old surferdude burritos again, just for you.”

Like everything blessed in our lives, such moments are gone almost before we've noticed them. Hannah, for example, soon begins the nightly negotiation over whether or not she's eaten enough to get dessert. But just for once, I tell the girls not to sweat it, we're all going out for ice cream, no matter what.

My agent, Sam Stoloff, played a critical role in shaping the idea for this book. Kathy Belden, my editor at Bloomsbury USA, was consistently kind, patient, and supportive, throughout the writing process. Certain portions of this book depended upon the generous support of magazine editors. At
Men's Journal
, these have included Will Dana, Jason Fine, Brad Wieners, Terry Noland, and Will Cockrell; at
Bon Appetit
, Hugh Garvey and Christine Muhlke; at
Food & Wine
, Dana Cowin, Pamela Kaufman, Michelle Shih, and Michael Endelman; at the
New York Times Magazine
, Ilena Silverman. At
Sierra
, Reed McManus and Steve Hawk. More than a few chefs have helped me along the way. These have included Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, Fergus Henderson, Chris Cosentino, Staffan Terje, Anne Walker, Sam Mogannam, and Daniel Patterson. My mother, Katharine Duane, not only cooked me countless loving meals over the years, but encouraged me to play that role for my own family. My wife's parents, Doug and Judy Weil, introduced me to the pleasures of fine dining, at more great restaurants than I can count. Ignazio Moresco, Joe Hefta, Brad Melekian, Bill Gifford, Michael Romano, and Kiernan Warble were all kind enough to read early versions of this book and promise that I
wasn't making a complete fool of myself. My wife, Liz Weil, read pretty much every version and, together with my daughters, Audrey and Hannah, gave me a reason to cook in the first place.

Barnes, Julian.
The Pedant in the Kitchen
. London: Atlantic Books, 2003.

Bertolli, Paul, and Alice Waters.
Chez Panisse Cooking
. New York: Random House, 1988.

Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme.
The Physiology of Taste; or, Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy
. Trans. M. F. K. Fisher. Berkeley: Counterpoint, 2000.

Chamberlain, Samuel.
Clementine in the Kitchen
. New York: Modern Library, 2001.

Colicchio, Tom.
Think Like a Chef
. New York: Clarkson Potter, 2000.

Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh.
The River Cottage Meat Book
. New York: Ten Speed Press, 2007.

Harrison, Jim.
The Raw and the Cooked: Adventures of a Roaming Gourmand
. New York: Grove Press, 2002.

Henderson, Fergus.
The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating
. New York: Ecco, 2004.

Kamman, Madeleine.
When French Women Cook: A Gastronomic Memoir
. New York: Ten Speed Press, 2002.

Kamp, David.
The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation
. New York: Clarkson Potter, 2006.

Keller, Thomas.
Ad Hoc At Home
. New York: Artisan, 2006.

———.
Bouchon
. New York: Artisan, 2004.

_______.
The French Laundry Cookbook
. New York: Artisan, 1999.

Liebling, A. J.
Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris
. New York: Random House, 1995.

Montanari, Massimo.
Food Is Culture
. New York: Columbia University Press, 2006.

Olney, Richard.
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. New York: Ten Speed Press, 2002.

_______.
Simple French Food
. New York: Wiley, 1992.

_______.
Lulu's Provençal Table
. New York: HarperCollins, 1994.

Pellegrini, Angelo M.
The Unprejudiced Palate
. New York: Macmillan, 1948.

Ripert, Eric, and Maguy Le Coze.
Le Bernardin Cookbook: Four-Star Simplicity
. New York: Clarkson Potter, 1998.

Rouff, Marcel.
The Passionate Epicure
. New York: Modern Library, 2002.

Ruhlman, Michael.
The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America
. New York: Holt Paperbacks, 1999.

________.
The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection
. New York: Penguin, 2001.

Shere, Lindsey Remolif.
Chez Panisse Desserts
. New York: Random House, 1985.

Tower, Jeremiah.
California Dish: What I Saw (and Cooked) at the American Culinary Revolution
. New York: Free Press, 2003.

Trillin, Calvin.
The Tummy Trilogy
. New York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1994.

Waters, Alice.
Chez Panisse Café Cookbook
. New York: William Morrow Cookbooks, 1999.

________.
Chez Panisse Fruit
. New York: William Morrow Cookbooks, 2002.

_______.
Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook
. New York: Random House, 1982.

_______.
Chez Panisse Vegetables
. New York: William Morrow Cookbooks, 1996.

Wrangham, Richard.
Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human
. New York: Basic Books, 2009.

Ziegelman, Jane.
97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement
. New York: HarperCollins, 2010.

Daniel Duane is the author of the surf memoir
Caught Inside
and the recipient of a 2011 National Magazine Award for “Five Meals Every Man Should Master,” an article about cooking with chef Thomas Keller. Duane's food writing has been nominated for a James Beard Award and anthologized in
Best Food Writing 2011
. He collaborated with Alice Waters on the book
Edible Education: A Universal Idea
. His journalism has appeared in
Food & Wine
,
Bon Appétit
, the
New York Times Magazine
,
Esquire
, and
GQ
, and he is a contributing editor for
Men's Journal
. Duane lives in San Francisco with his wife, the writer Elizabeth Weil, and their two daughters, Audrey and Hannah.

Nonfiction
Lighting Out: A Vision of California and the Mountains
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
El Capitan: Historic Feats and Radical Routes

Fiction
Looking for Mo
A Mouth Like Yours

Copyright © 2012 by Daniel Duane

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

For information address Bloomsbury USA, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010.

Electronic edition published in May 2012

Parts of this book appeared first, in substantially different form, in
Men's
Journal
, the
New York Times Magazine, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit
, and
Sierra
.

Published by Bloomsbury USA, New York

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA HAS BEEN APPLIED FOR.

ISBN: 978-1-60819-415-5 (e-book)

www.bloomsburyusa.com