French Classics Made Easy (53 page)

3.
Using the flat of the spatula, turn the top layer over, cut side up, onto the cake rack.

APRICOT JAM ROLL

[BISCUIT ROULÉ À L’ABRICOT]

The classic jelly roll is made with a
biscuit,
or French sponge cake batter, similar to a génoise but made without butter and with egg yolks and egg whites beaten separately. The resulting batter is quite stiff. I have found that for jelly rolls the batter does not have to be as thick as tradition has dictated. So, I simplify the recipe by using a butterless génoise, modifying the génoise recipe slightly by adding 2 tablespoons of liquid, which both lightens and moistens the resulting sponge cake.

SERVES 6

4 eggs

Butter and all-purpose flour, for jelly-roll pan

½ cup (110g) granulated sugar

2 tablespoons orange juice

Grated zest of 1 small orange

⅔ cup (100g) all-purpose flour

1 jar (8 ounces) apricot jam (see Note)

¼ cup (25g) sliced almonds, toasted

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)

1.
Place the unbroken eggs in a large bowl filled with hot tap water.

2.
Preheat the oven to 350°F with the oven rack in the middle position. Lightly butter the bottom of a 17 x 11 x 1-inch jelly-roll pan and line with waxed paper. Butter and lightly flour the waxed paper and the sides of the pan.

3.
Remove the eggs from the bowl, pour out the water, and dry the bowl. Crack the eggs into the bowl and beat with the granulated sugar, orange juice, and orange zest until tripled in volume, 5 to 8 minutes. The batter should be very thick. It will fall slowly from the beaters and stand on the surface.

4.
Sift the flour, one-third at a time, onto the surface of the batter. Using a rubber/silicone spatula, gently fold the flour in until smooth.

5.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan, spreading to fill the pan evenly. Tap the filled pan firmly on a counter several times to make sure no large air bubbles are trapped in the batter.

6.
Place the pan in the oven and bake until the cake begins to come away from the sides of the pan and is golden brown and springy to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes.

7.
Run a knife around the sides of the pan, making sure that the cake is not sticking. Unmold the cake onto a clean kitchen towel lined with waxed paper. The waxed paper that had lined the pan will be attached to the surface of the cake. Remove this paper, then replace it loosely on the surface of the cake. Roll the cake up in the towel between the layers of waxed paper and allow to cool. You may roll the cake in whichever direction you prefer to produce either a long, thin cake or a short, thick one. (The cake can be made to this point 1 day in advance and refrigerated as is.)

8.
A few hours before serving, warm the jam in a saucepan on the stove (or in a bowl in the microwave) until it is thin enough to spread easily.

9.
Unroll the cake and remove the top layer of waxed paper. Spread a thin layer of jam evenly over the surface of the cake. Reroll the cake, peeling away the waxed paper as you go. Trim the ends, and transfer to a serving platter. Coat the outside of the cake with a thin layer of jam. Sprinkle the almonds over the sides and top of the cake and dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

NOTE

Buy lightly sweetened preserves, or make your own Apricot Jam (
page 356
) for jelly rolls so that the end results will be full of the fruit flavor and not overly sweet. This is an easy dessert to make and is popular with children and adults alike.

VARIATIONS

The apricot jam can be replaced by 2 cups of flavored whipped cream or buttercream.

The recipe can also be used to make a 10-inch round cake.

ALMOND CAKE
WITH A RASPBERRY PUREE

[PAIN DE GÊNES SUR COULIS DE FRAMBOISE]

Pain de gênes is an almond cake that is traditionally served with tea in France. When I first tasted it I found the cake dry, but enjoyed its rich almond flavor. Classically made with three eggs, I found myself short an egg one day, but made the cake anyway. The result was a moist and delicious cake that became an instant hit.

Although good by itself, this simple cake turns into an elegant dessert when served surrounded with raspberry coulis (purée).

SERVES 6 TO 8

1 tablespoon kirsch, framboise, or Cointreau (optional)

Raspberry Coulis (
page 345
)

1 tablespoon melted butter and all-purpose flour, for cake pan

⅔ cup (100g) whole blanched almonds or ¾ cup (100g) slivered almonds

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (125g) granulated sugar

¼ cup (40g) all-purpose flour

8 tablespoons (1 stick; 115g) unsalted butter

2 eggs

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 tablespoons dark rum

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1.
Add the kirsch, framboise, or Cointreau to the raspberry coulis. (The coulis can be made a day in advance and refrigerated until used.)

2.
Preheat the oven to 350°F with the oven rack in the middle position. Cut a round of waxed paper to fit the bottom of an 8- or 9-inch cake pan. Brush the bottom of the pan with the melted butter and place the paper in it. Butter and lightly flour the waxed paper and the sides of the pan.

3.
Combine the almonds with half the granulated sugar in a food processor and grind to a fine powder. Add the flour to this mixture and set aside.

4.
In a food processor, cream the 8 tablespoons of butter and the remaining granulated sugar. When smooth, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Blend in the vanilla and rum. Add the almond-flour mixture and process quickly just until smooth.

5.
Pour the batter into the cake pan. (It will fill only about one fourth of the pan.) Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown in color and comes slightly away from the edge of the pan. Unmold onto a wire rack, remove and discard the waxed paper, and allow to cool.

6.
To serve: Dust with confectioners’ sugar to coat the surface of the cake. Cut into 8 wedges. Pour about 3 tablespoons of raspberry coulis onto each serving plate. Tilt the plates so the sauce coats them evenly, then place a slice of cake in the center of each plate.

A
LMOND
C
AKE WITH
S
ORBET AND
F
RUIT:
Pain de Gênes au Sorbet et aux Fruits

In summertime, with sorbet in the freezer and fresh fruit readily available, I make an extra-special presentation of this dessert. For example, I simply add a scoop of Pineapple Sorbet (
page 288
) on one side of the cake and several tablespoons of blueberries on the other. The raspberry coulis complements all, and you’ll have a dessert that any fine French restaurant would be proud to serve. This cake goes nicely with other fruit purées. Try strawberry, blueberry, or peach.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE CAKE

[GÂTEAU MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT]

This light and luscious mousse cake combines both baked and unbaked chocolate mousse. All flavor variations that work for the mousse recipe can be used for this cake. It can be made a day or two in advance and can be frozen for later use, if desired.

SERVES 8

Butter, for cake pan

Double recipe of Chocolate Mousse (
page 275
)

Unsweetened cocoa powder and whipped cream for decoration (optional; see Note)

1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F with the oven rack in the middle position. Butter a 9-inch cake pan.

2.
Pour three-fourths of the chocolate mousse mixture into the pan. (Refrigerate the remainder until ready to use.) Bake for 30 to 35 minutes. The cake will rise at first; when it falls back, it is done.

3.
Unmold onto a wire rack to cool. When cooled, the cake will have a concave center. Transfer the cake, with the aid of a long metal spatula, to a serving platter and fill the center with the remaining mousse mixture. Refrigerate until the mousse sets, about 1 hour.

NOTE

If desired, decorate the cake before serving by dusting the mousse center with cocoa powder and piping whipped cream around the outer edge.

RUM-SOAKED SAVARIN

[SAVARIN AURHUM]

The yeast dough that is used to make this delicious rum-soaked cake is the same that is used for
baba au rhum.
Babas are baked in small metal cups or baba molds, while a savarin is baked in a ring-shaped savarin mold. Once risen, baked, and unmolded, babas or savarins are soaked with rum and a hot sugar syrup. Finally, they are glazed with hot apricot jam and decorated with sliced almonds and candied fruits.

Those who have tasted a savarin will find my recipe far less sweet. The light sugar syrup is one-quarter as sugary as the usual French syrup.

SERVES 16

2 tablespoons butter, melted, for mold

2 packages active dry yeast or 1 ounce fresh yeast

¼ cup (50g) sugar

6 tablespoons warm (90°F to 115°F) water

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (300g) all-purpose flour

4 eggs

7 tablespoons (100g) unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

4 cups Light Sugar Syrup (
page 359
)

¾ cup dark rum

Apricot Glaze (
page 354
)

¼ cup sliced almonds and/or candied fruit and violets, for decoration

1.
Completely coat the inside of a 9½-inch savarin mold with the 2 tablespoons melted butter.

2.
Dissolve the yeast and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in the warm water. Let sit for 2 to 5 minutes, or until foamy and showing signs of life. If the yeast does not foam, discard and start again with new yeast.

3.
In a food processor, combine the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar, the flour, eggs, 7 tablespoons melted butter, vanilla, and yeast mixture and process until a smooth, sticky batter forms, about 1 minute.

4.
Preheat the oven to 400°F with the oven rack in the lowest position.

5.
Drop the batter, 1 tablespoon at a time, into the mold, taking care not to drip batter on the sides of the mold. The mold should be filled halfway. Place a towel on the counter and bang the filled mold several times firmly on the towel to level the batter and to bring any air bubbles to the surface. Cover the mold with a large inverted bowl or pot and let rise until the batter reaches to within ⅛ inch of the top, about 30 minutes.

6.
Place the mold in the oven and immediately lower the temperature to 350°F. Bake until the cake has risen and is dark brown on top and golden brown on the bottom and sides, 40 to 45 minutes. Unmold the savarin onto a wire rack and let cool, 20 to 30 minutes.

7.
Place the light sugar syrup in a small saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil.

8.
Place the savarin, on its wire rack, over a large bowl or deep pan. (A roasting pan or sauté pan works well.) Spoon or slowly pour the boiling sugar syrup over the savarin and repeat until most of the syrup has been absorbed, 8 to 10 applications. As the syrup cools, reheat it.

9.
When there is only about ½ cup of syrup remaining, stop and slowly spoon the rum over the savarin. Follow the rum with the remaining syrup. (Save any syrup that drips into the bowl or pan under the rack.)

10.
In a small saucepan, bring the apricot glaze to a boil over medium heat. Using a pastry brush, coat the entire savarin with a layer of the glaze. Decorate as desired.

11.
Using two long metal spatulas, transfer the savarin to a large rimmed serving platter. Pour any remaining syrup around the savarin.

S
AVARIN
M
OLD