French Classics Made Easy (14 page)

3 tablespoons butter

3 shallots, chopped

1 pound chicken livers

½ teaspoon fresh or dried thyme leaves

½ teaspoon salt (omit if using salted butter)

⅛ to ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, to taste

¼ cup Madeira

2 teaspoons Meat Glaze (optional;
page 309
)

2 teaspoons Cognac

1.
In a 10-inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Sauté the shallots quickly until they are softened but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes.

2.
Add the livers, increase the heat, and sauté just until all sides have been colored lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with the thyme, salt, and pepper. Transfer the livers to a food processor or blender.

3.
Add the Madeira and meat glaze (if using) to the skillet and reduce by half over high heat, about 45 seconds. Set aside.

4.
Purée the livers and the remaining 2 sticks butter until smooth. Mix in the reduced pan liquid and Cognac. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

5.
Pour the mousse into a porcelain mold or individual molds for serving and cover the surface with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. Serve with toast or crackers.

H
OW TO
E
ASILY AND
S
IMPLY
D
ECORATE A
M
OUSSE

For an impressive finishing touch that’s worth the effort, you can layer the top of your molded
mousse de foie de volaille
with aspic. To make an aspic, add 4 packages of unflavored gelatin to either the Chicken Consommé (
page 17
) or Beef Consommé (
page 18
). Cool the aspic to room temperature and pour a thin layer over the mousse. Place the mousse in the refrigerator to set the aspic. The unused portion of the aspic can either be reheated and served as a hot consommé or poured into a shallow baking dish or roasting pan, chilled until set, and then chopped and served with the mousse. If you would like to decorate the mousse further (see below), save some of the aspic for the final decorations.

Move the moistened decoration to the chilled mousse with the point of a knife.

For simple decorations, use tomato skin, hard-cooked egg white, and leek, scallion, parsley, or tarragon leaves. (The leaves should be blanched in boiling water for 5 to 10 seconds and refreshed under cold running water to set their color.) Plan the design and cut everything into the desired shapes before placing on the mousse.

When you are ready to decorate, moisten the decoration by spooning some liquid aspic over it. With the point of a knife, move the decoration to the chilled aspic-coated surface (the decorations can also be placed directly on top of a mousse that hasn’t yet been coated with aspic). Refrigerate the mousse until the aspic on the decorations has set, about 15 minutes. Cover with another thin layer of liquid aspic and chill for at least 1 hour.

A decorated mousse.

CREPES

Crêpes are one of those specialties that go in and out of fashion. At one time there were American restaurants that served nothing but crêpes, but these days they are often overlooked. If they appear at all, they are probably served as dessert.

In France, crêpes can be served throughout the meal, beginning with the first course—folded around a savory filling, coated with a sauce, and baked.

Crêpes freeze exceptionally well, and if you prepare some to have on hand, making stuff ed crêpes can be easy. When I make crêpes to freeze for future use, I do not put waxed paper between each crêpe as most cookbooks instruct. I generally freeze the crêpes in a stack, in the quantity that I am most likely to need (assuming two to three crêpes per person). When I’m ready to use them, I put the whole stack to warm in the oven, making them pliable and easy to use.

SAVORY CREPES

[CRÊPES SALÉES]

The batter for these basic crêpes can be used for all savory crêpes. In addition to the salt and pepper, you can add seasoning to the batter based on what the filling will be. A touch of freshly grated nutmeg for a spinach filling, or a little curry powder for creamed chicken or seafood, are just two examples of spices that can be added. I often add chopped chives or a few thinly sliced scallions, which add both color and flavor to the crêpe.

The number of crêpes that you can make from this recipe will depend on how thin the batter is and how thin you make the crêpes. If you let the batter rest after making it, the flour swells, making the batter smoother and thicker. If you find your first crêpe too thick, add a little more milk to the batter. When cooking the crêpes, once the pan is coated with the batter, any excess should be poured out to keep the crêpes thin.

I use a nonstick crêpe pan or a nonstick omelet pan with a 6- to 7-inch surface instead of the classic steel pans, and recommend that you do also. Even with a nonstick pan, you should lubricate it with a touch of oil or butter for the first few crêpes, or whenever needed, if you want to be able to flip the crêpes (which is especially fun for children) as instructed in step 4. Otherwise, the crêpe batter will stick to the pan as it cooks, and you won’t be able to shake the crêpe loose to flip it. It is, however, an easy matter to loosen and turn the crêpe with a silicone spatula.

Once made, the stacked crêpes can be set aside to cool, then tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, or frozen for several months. To use them, simply reheat in a 250°F oven until warm, about 15 to 20 minutes. When warm, the crêpes will be pliable and will separate easily.

MAKES 16 TO 24 SIX-INCH CRÊPES

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (150g) all-purpose flour (see Note)

3 eggs

1½ cups milk

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil, plus extra for the pan

1.
In a bowl, stir the flour, eggs, ½ cup of the milk, and the salt and pepper with a whisk until you have a smooth batter. Add the remaining 1 cup milk and stir well. If time permits, allow the batter to rest for 30 minutes. (As the batter rests, the granules of flour absorb the milk and swell, creating a smoother batter and a slightly stronger crêpe than if used right away.)

2.
Just before using, whisk in the melted butter.

3.
Heat a 6-inch crêpe pan over medium-high heat. The pan is ready when a drop of water dances on the hot surface of the pan. (Lightly coat the pan with butter or oil if needed.) Hold the pan in one hand, tilting it slightly. Using a small ladle or coffee measurer, pour about
2 tablespoons of batter into the pan where the sides and bottom meet. Now turn the pan in a circular motion to spread the batter evenly. The amount of batter used should just coat the bottom of the pan. Any excess should be poured back into the batter bowl.

4.
Cook the crêpe until the edge begins to brown. Turn the crêpe, carefully lifting it with a spatula, or flip it. To flip, first make sure that the crêpe can slide in the pan by shaking it vigorously if necessary. Flip with a forward and upward motion of your hand, keeping your eye on the crêpe. Although your first few may land on the floor, you will soon be catching them as they turn over. Cook the second side for only 10 to 15 seconds and slide the crêpe onto a plate.

5.
Repeat until all the crêpes are made, stacking them one on top of the other and allowing them to cool. The top surface of the crêpe should be medium brown in color, and the underneath pale yellow. If after making two crêpes you find the color either too dark or too light, adjust your heat accordingly. At the same point, if you find the crêpe is too thick, add a little more milk to thin the batter.

NOTE

I’ve included gram measurements here, because this is in effect a pastry recipe. See Appendix A (
page 360
) for more on the metric system in pastry making.

IN ADDITION

The batter can also be made in a blender. Place all ingredients in the container of the blender, cover, and turn the blender on and then off again. Scrape down the flour that has stuck to the sides of the blender and blend again until smooth.

HAM AND MUSHROOM CREPES
WITH
M
ORNAY
S
AUCE

[CRÊPES AU JAMBON SAUCE MORNAY]

I find it difficult to give set recipes for stuff ed crêpes, because to me they are perfectly designed for using leftovers and are an inspiration of the moment, not something for which you should go shopping. Easy to make and elegant to serve, they are ideal for the leftover lamb, turkey, or ham in your refrigerator. They can be eaten on the spot, of course, but you can also stuff, sauce, and store them for up to 2 days in the refrigerator or for a month, well wrapped, in the freezer.

But if you are seeking a recipe, this is one of my favorites. It can be made totally in advance and reheated just before serving. Using a processor to chop all the ingredients makes this very easy.

SERVES 8

S
TUFFED
C
REPES
:
Crêpes Farcies

A
crêpe farcie
can be a wonderfully elegant creation, with the crêpe batter, filling, and sauce all designed to go with one another and seasoned accordingly. Or crêpes can dress up leftovers for a simple family meal. The possible combinations of ingredients for stuffing crêpes is limited only by your imagination, but there are some guidelines for a stuffing mixture that to me has the proper consistency and will hold together, and there are some combinations of stuffings and sauces that are also typically French.

BASIC STUFFING FORMULA
: For each 6-inch crêpe, use 3 tablespoons of diced or chopped cooked ingredients (such as meat, fish, shellfish, poultry, vegetables, cheese, or combinations) bound together with 1 tablespoon or so of the sauce you will be using to cover the crêpes.

SUGGESTED COMBINATIONS
:

Diced chicken and mushrooms with a velouté flavored with tarragon.