Field Guide to Candy: How to Identify and Make Virtually Every Candy Imaginable (2 page)

Food coloring.
Food coloring comes in liquid or paste form. It is easiest to add liquid coloring to liquid candy mixtures and solid paste coloring to solid candy mixtures. Food coloring paste is much more concentrated than liquid food coloring: A small dab is usually sufficient to color an entire batch of candy.

Flavoring extracts and oils.
Flavoring extracts and oils give candies a variety of flavors, such as lemon, peppermint, and almond. Flavoring oils are more concentrated and stronger than flavoring extracts; they are often preferred by professional candy makers.

Flour.
Store all flour in a cool, dry place away from light and heat.

Milk.
Whole milk is generally best for candy making. A lower fat content can affect the candy’s flavor.

Nuts.
With distinctive flavors and crunch, nuts play an integral role in many candies. Nuts can go rancid quickly, so take care to choose fresh nuts and store them properly. When sealed, nuts can keep in the refrigerator for a couple of months or in the freezer for up to one year.

Sugar.
Granulated sugar is the most common sweetener for candies. Store it in a cool, dry place; if it has hardened into chunks, break them up before measuring.
See also
Notes on Working with Sugar
.

Vanilla
is one of the classic flavorings for candies. Be sure to use pure vanilla extract; imitation vanilla extract has a chemical flavor and is a poor substitute for the real thing.

White chocolate.
White chocolate is made of cocoa butter, milk solids, sugar, and flavorings. It does not contain any cacao, so technically it is not chocolate. Some countries have regulations on what can be called “white chocolate.” Good-quality white chocolate is made with a high percentage of cocoa butter instead of vegetable fats.

NOTES ON WORKING WITH CHOCOLATE

Melting chocolate.
Chocolate is a surprisingly delicate ingredient. The best way to melt it is over the gentle, indirect heat of hot water on the stove. You can use a double boiler, which is meant specifically for this purpose, or simply a metal bowl placed over a pot of simmering water.
The water should simmer but not boil, and the bottom of the bowl holding the chocolate should not touch the water. Chop chocolate into small pieces so they will melt quickly and evenly. Gently stir with a rubber spatula to prevent burning. Remove the chocolate from heat when it looks almost fully melted; stirring will melt any small remaining bits.

Melting chocolate in the microwave.
Put finely chopped chocolate in a heat-proof bowl. Microwave it on 50 percent of maximum power in 10-second increments, stirring thoroughly after each interval.

Prevent melting chocolate from seizing.
If a few drops of liquid get into melting chocolate, the cocoa particles in the chocolate clump around the liquid, turning the mixture into a grainy, chunky mass. So make sure your tools are dry. One common source of moisture is steam from the simmering water, so use a bowl that fits tightly into your pot. Do not cover melting chocolate; condensation may form on the underside of the lid and drip into the chocolate.

Saving
seized chocolate.
You can rescue seized chocolate by adding more liquid: Add 1 tablespoon of vegetable shortening or warmed cream for every 6 ounces of chocolate, and stir over medium heat. It will slowly turn back to a smooth consistency. Seized chocolate that has been rescued can no longer be tempered, but you can still use it in recipes that call for melted chocolate, such as
ganache fillings
or
chocolate fondue
.

Tempering chocolate.
Tempered chocolate has a shiny, flawless appearance. It feels firm and breaks off with a snap when you bite into it and it melts smoothly in your mouth, allowing you to fully enjoy the flavor.
Slowly heating and cooling melted chocolate while stirring puts it into temper. If chocolate is not tempered properly, the cocoa butter crystallization is uncontrolled and uneven, which results in an unattractive chocolate that is dull or has white streaks running through it. Untempered chocolate may feel rough or tacky and have a cakey, almost chewy texture. And it is more susceptible to heat and humidity, melting more easily and spoiling more quickly. Some simple candy recipes do not require tempered chocolate. However, candies such as truffles, dipped chocolates, and chocolate bars require tempering to achieve their signature appearance, taste, and texture.

How To Temper Chocolate

Keeping chocolate in temper.
Once melted chocolate has been tempered, it must be used before it cools and sets. If it cools to about 84°F to 86°F and is still fairly liquid, it can be reheated to a liquid consistency. If it has completely cooled and solidified, it should be re-tempered. Heat it for 5 to 10 seconds at a time, stirring and checking the temperature before re-heating. For dark chocolate, reheat to 88°F to 91°F. For milk and white chocolate, reheat to 87°F to 88°F. If you keep your chocolate within these temperature ranges, it will stay in temper and be liquid enough to use.