Read Encyclopedia Gothica Online
Authors: Gary Pullin Liisa Ladouceur
DIGITALIS, RAVEN
American writer, DJ, photographer and Neopagan priest (né Colin Smith, b. July 29, 1983) based in Missoula, Montana. Author of
Goth Craft: The Magickal Side of Dark Culture
, which shed a light on the areas where witchcraft and Goth converge.
DIRGE, ROMAN
American writer and artist (b. April 29, 1972), creator of the comic book series
Lenore: The Cute Little Dead Girl
, based on the
EDGAR ALLAN POE
poem “Lenore.” The heavily
TATTOOED
former magician has also worked in animation and recently developed his first video game,
Vampire Puff Puff
.
DISINTEGRATION
Masterwork album by
THE CURE
, released May 1, 1989, whereupon it quickly became the band’s greatest commercial success — double platinum in the U.S. with hit singles in “Lovesong,” “Lullaby,” “Pictures of You” and “Fascination Street.” This is not why many critics, not to mention
South Park
character Kyle, have declared
Disintegration
“the best album ever!” It was the return to gloom for the band after a string of pop hits that, despite being the product of serious malaise in the life of twenty-nine-going-on-petrified singer
ROBERT SMITH
, balanced deathly solemnity and the sound of loss and longing with lush orchestration and layers of heartfelt loveliness. Everyone who says this epic album is a total bummer with the exception of “Lovesong” clearly doesn’t get the seductive appeal of ache and probably isn’t Goth. Truly, a Desert Island Disc.
DR. MARTENS
Boots of choice for skinheads, punks, grunge rock stars and working class types, affectionately known as Docs. Invented by an actual German doctor, Klaus Märtens. Introduced to the masses by English shoemakers in 1960 with the debut of the eight-hole cherry red model 1460. Docs are known for comfortable soles, bright yellow stitching and association with racist shithead shitkickers. So why would Goths wear ’em? Because some days you can’t bear to put on the five-inch heels. Or you need plain footwear for a job interview that isn’t a gross loafer. Maybe your entire wardrobe is stuck in the ’80s. Sure, they’re not really as “rebellious” as their marketing would like you to believe, but they really do go with anything, which is why there’s probably a pair of black eight-hole Docs in every Goth’s closet in the world. If you really need to
ÜBER
it up, there’s always the eighteen-hole
PVC
model.
DOG COLLAR
Why do some Goths wear an accessory made for dogs around their necks? Well, the punks started it. We adorn ourselves in collars (also called chokers) made of leather, lace,
VELVET
or steel, primarily as a fashion accessory but sometimes, for those in actual
BDSM
relationships, as a symbol of submission. Collars are often decorated with
D-RINGS
, to which a leash can be attached. In 2008 in
ENGLAND
, Goth Tasha Maltby was asked to get off a city bus because her collar/leash was considered some kind of safety hazard; after accusing the bus company of discrimination, she made news headlines worldwide for admitting to being the “human pet” of her fiancé Dani Graves. There was so much media coverage that a Google image search for “Goth” turns up her photo everytime, but certainly, not all Goths wear dog collars.
See also:
Neck corset
DOKTOR AVALANCHE
Drummer for
THE SISTERS OF MERCY
. More accurately, the name given to a series of drum machines used by The Sisters instead of a live drummer, starting with a Boss
DR
55 “Dr. Rhythm” and including an Oberheim DMX (
First and Last and Always
era) and Akai S900 (
Floodland
) and eventually graduating into the digital realm. The good Doktor also answers emails on the Sisters website, although the snarkiness of his advice sure makes him sound a lot like bandleader
ANDREW ELDRICH
.
DOMINION
1. British music magazine launched October 2009 and published monthly as a supplement to metal mag Terrorizer. Editors boast that it’s more than just a Goth zine, and they’re right; it covers the entire dark alternative spectrum, from
INDUSTRIAL
and
EBM
to ye old
DEATH ROCK
and beyond, focusing on interviews and reviews. Essential reading to keep up with the European kids. 2. Song by
THE SISTERS OF MERCY
from the album
Floodland
, released as a single in 1988 and also known as “Dominion/Mother Russia.” A music video filmed in Jordan could be considered the original
GOTHS IN HOT WEATHER
. 3. Sisters of Mercy fan club mailing list. 4. Club night in Dublin, billed as Ireland’s longest-running weekly Goth/Industrial night, featuring DJs, live music and music videos. Currently held in the Cellar of Murray’s Bar. 5. Filipino Gothic metal band formed 1994.
DONOR
A person in the so-called real
VAMPIRE
community who donates blood to a partner/loved one/interested party, who drinks it. About as common in Gothdom as spotting an actual vampire.
See also:
Modern vampires
DOOM COOKIE
A derogatory term for a Goth
POSEUR
, someone who tries hard to look and act Goth but comes off like a walking cliché of overwrought poetry and misguided fashion choices with no understanding of the music or subculture. Why the general word poseur doesn’t suffice here I’m not sure, other than that young Goths do have a way of amping up catty behaviour to the next level.
See also:
Mall Goth
DRAC-IN-A-BOX
British clothing company launched by Carmilla and Dorian in 1999. Designs slant towards the Trad/
ROMANTIGOTH
side, with frilly
VICTORIAN
gowns, black bridal veils and pinstriped top coats, but online shop also stocks some Cyber. High quality, original stuff made by and for Goths. Bravo.
DRACULA
1. Fictional
VAMPIRE
count from Transylvania created by author
BRAM STOKER
in the 1897 novel of the same name. The archetypal
NOSFERATU
— he gave the creatures so many of their attributes: sucking the blood of beautiful girls; hypnotic powers; shapeshifting into
BAT
s, fog, wolves and the like; sleeping in a coffin full of dirt; lack of a reflection in mirrors; etc. etc. Both animalistic and aristocratic, he certainly had his way with the ladies, which may explain his enduring influence on pop culture today: in film, TV, books, games, toys, even breakfast cereal. A list of these adaptations could fill dozens of books and has. May I recommend
A Dracula Handbook
by Elizabeth Miller and
In Search of Dracula
by Raymond T. McNally and Radu Florescu? And may I also recommend that if you’re going to dress up in a
CAPE
and
FANGS
for
HALLOWEEN
(or any other day), you read Stoker’s original novel first? It’s a classic for a reason. 2. Horror film directed by Tod Browning for Universal Studios in 1931, starring
BELA LUGOSI
as the Count, based on a stage play based on the book. Of the myriad versions of the tale, this black-and-white supernatural chiller is the one to watch.
DRACULA’S BALL
VAMPIRE
-themed party, held every three months in Philadelphia since 1999, featuring DJs, live performances, vendors and costumed bloodsucker enthusiasts.
DRAG-U-LA
1. Coffin car prop made for the 1960s TV show
THE MUNSTERS
, in which a casket was tricked out with organ pipes, a tombstone and other gothy accessories to create a vehicle for Grandpa Munster to drag race with. 2. Song by
ROB ZOMBIE
from his 1998 album
Hellbilly Deluxe
.
DRAVEN
1. Eric Draven, fictional protagonist of James O’Barr’s graphic novel
THE CROW
, portrayed by Brandon Lee in the 1994 film. 2. Draven Shoes, cheap sneakers worn by the occasional misguided
MALL GOTH
(likely fooled by the special-edition
MISFITS
high-tops), but best left to
EMO
skateboarders.
DREADS
Dreadlocks, a style of matted hair traditionally worn by Rastafarians and Hindus for spiritual purposes, adopted by Goths as a fashion statement. The
CYBERGOTH
s started it with their synthetic dreads in bright colours and futuristic materials, popularizing the look of actual dreads in the community.
DREAMPOP
Musical subgenre emerging from the U.K. in the mid to late 1980s, defined as “nebulous, distorted guitars with murmured vocals sometimes completely smudged into a wall of noise” by journalist Simon Reynolds in 1991 and as epitomized by
4AD
acts as such as
COCTEAU TWINS
and This Mortal Coil. Essentially, it’s
SHOEGAZER
with more
ETHEREAL
female vocals.
DRESDEN DOLLS
Boston
DARK CABARET
duo of
AMANDA PALMER
(vocals, piano) and Brian Viglione (drums, guitars) formed in 2000 after Brian spotted Amanda performing at a
HALLOWEEN
party. With their theatrical make-up and vaudevillian showmanship, the pair helped kickstart the
DARK CABARET
genre, scoring high-profile gigs with
NINE INCH NAILS
and Lollapalooza. Only two full-length albums so far, 2003’s self-titled debut and 2006’s
Yes, Virginia . . .
, and the band’s future is uncertain but both are continuing to make much music so you won’t run out of places to wear your striped tights anytime soon.
D-RING
Piece of hardware, usually made of metal, in the shape of a D, affixed to an item such as clothing onto which you can attach or tie other items. A pretty universal way to Goth up any wardrobe, most often found on
CORSET
s, wrist cuffs, bracelets and boots as purely decorative but also standard issue for
TRIPP
BONDAGE PANT
to attach extra straps.
DROP DEAD
Festival for underground and independent music, with a focus on
DEATH ROCK
,
BATCAVE
,
PSYCHOBILLY
and other old-school genres. Started in New York City in 2002, migrating to Europe in 2007, where it is now held in a different country each year. A companion magazine emerged from NYC in 2005 for five issues before going digital and, shockingly, embracing new hipster music from outside Gothdom. Meanwhile, the festival remains a sanctuary for thousands of people with
DEATHHAWKS
who still love
SEX GANG CHILDREN
.
EBAY
Online auction site, where one can buy an endless supply of new and used clothing, accessories, music, books, movies and art of the Goth persuasion. Because not everyone has a
HOT TOPIC
at his/her local mall, or sometimes you really need to resell your entire
WAX TRAX!
vinyl collection to some lonely
RIVETHEAD
somewhere far away. Once a place for DIY designers and craftsfolk to start up their indie businesses, has now been usurped by
ETSY
.
EBM
Short for Electronic Body Music, a subgenre of
INDUSTRIAL
music characterized by minimal, repetitive beats, clean production and vocalists who! shout! commands! Phrase coined by Ralf Hütter of German electronic music pioneers Kraftwerk in 1978 and popularized in mid to late 1980s to describe the early recordings of Front 242, DAF and Nitzer Ebb.
EBM
acted as a kind of connective tissue between
GOTHIC ROCK
and industrial clubs and communities, introducing a harder electronic sound (and more army boots) to dance floors in the years between
NEW WAVE
’s demise and the rise of American industrial rock, although some
TRAD GOTH
s found the intrusion unacceptable. The mainstream/cross-over appeal of the originators (now referred to as “old school
EBM
”) faded in the 1990s but a fresh influx of darker
EBM
bands such as Leaether Strip, :wumpscut: et al. found an audience all their own, perfectly timed for the emergence of
CYBERGOTH
.
See also:
Futurepop
ECHO AND THE BUNNYMEN
British
POST-PUNK
band formed in Liverpool in 1978 by singer Ian McCulloch, guitarist Will Sergeant and bassist Les Pattinson; split in 1993 and reformed in 1996, active to present day. A kinder, gentler early Goth group, their songs were filled with melodrama and mystery but less mad bleakness than their contemporaries. Mainstream success came through placement in Hollywood movie soundtracks: “Bring on the Dancing Horses” for
Pretty in Pink
and their cover of The Doors’ “People Are Strange” prominently heard in
THE LOST BOYS
. But it’s their majestic ballad “The Killing Moon,” from 1984’s
Ocean Rain
, which has secured them a spot of honour as a slow dance soundtrack to every Goth wedding ’til the end of time.
EDWARD SCISSORHANDS
Gothic fantasy film (1990), directed by
TIM BURTON
and starring
JOHNNY DEPP
as the titular Edward, a monstrous yet innocent creature with wild
BACKCOMBED
hair,
PALE
face, fetishy outfits and nasty looking scissors for hands. A dark fantasy retelling of
FRANKENSTEIN
(Edward’s inventor is played by
VINCENT PRICE
) mixed with
Beauty and the Beast
(Edward’s love interest is played by Winona Ryder), the film was a critical and box office success, establishing Depp as a modern Goth heartthrob. The Edward Scissorhands look is now iconic Goth Boy. Hence, perhaps second only to
THE CROW
as the one costume you really shouldn’t wear to
HALLOWEEN
parties anymore if you don’t want to show up dressed like twelve other people.
ELDER GOTH
Simply put, an old Goth. More charitably, an older member of the Goth community who continues to dress up, listen to the music and actively participate in the scene to some extent. The term seems to have originated at the turn of the millennium, when the first wave of Goths hit their forties, although at precisely what age one becomes an “elder” varies from thirties through to fifties. While the term is used respectfully, it doesn’t necessarily imply authority or wisdom or
GOTHER THAN THOU
–ness. It’s just a nicer way of saying someone has been around the foggy block a few times. Most Elder Goths have embraced the term and use it without a whiff of irony; the Elder Goth cocktail hour was a popular event at
CONVERGENCE
gatherings.
Compare:
Recovering Goth
ELDRITCH, ANDREW
British singer (né Andrew William Harvey Taylor, b. May 15, 1959) and, as leader of
THE SISTERS OF MERCY
, the Pope of Gothdom. As the old joke goes, when
WAYNE HUSSEY
(ex-Sisters) dies and goes to heaven, he finds Eldritch sitting on a throne and says to the Angel Gabriel, “I didn’t know Andrew was dead,” to which Gabriel replies, “No, that’s God. He only thinks he’s Andrew.” One cannot exaggerate the prominence of Eldritch as figurehead, part of the Trinity of Goth Frontmen alongside
PETER MURPHY
and
ROBERT SMITH
. Or his disgust at the thought of ever, ever, ever being considered a Goth, never mind leader of the pack. (In 1997, he threatened to cancel the Sisters’ first North American appearance in seven years at the Dark Harvest Festival because some of the other acts on the bill were too Goth. The offending acts were removed and the band played on, while some audience members sported homemade “Too Goth for Andrew” buttons.) Still, while maddeningly arrogant, as the voice and brain of the most important band in the
GOTHIC ROCK
genre, he remains an intellectual and creative force. Even if, like some kind of Axl Rose, he keeps promising us new recordings that never come.
ELEGY
French magazine of dark music and culture, published bimonthly since 1998. While heavy on band interviews and reviews, and packaged with a free sampler CD,
Elegy
also stands out for its coverage of the visual arts and photography, with striking covers. In 2006, expanded to a bilingual edition for the Spanish/Portuguese market.
ELVIRA
Horror hostess character created by American actress/comedian Cassandra Peterson (b. September 17, 1951) in 1981 for a late-night TV show called
Movie Macabre
, where she found success screening B-grade horror flicks and cracking sassy, sexy jokes. With her low, low, low cut, cleavage-revealing black dress and high, high, high black beehive hairstyle, Elvira: Mistress of the Dark became the predominant stereotype of a modern-day vampress, as evidenced by the number of pre-packaged Elvira-style costumes for sale at Hallowen. Her empire has grown to include comic books, a pinball machine, dolls, and feature films, plus a 2007 reality TV show,
The Search for the Next Elvira
. Pro: having someone as talented and hilarious as Peterson represent Goth Girls is a Win! Con: having normal people shout “Hey, Elvira!” at every gothy girl whether one looks anything like her or not is an annoying curse.
See also:
Morticia
EMILY THE STRANGE
Fictional character created by American skateboard clothing design company Cosmic Debris in the early 1990s. Emily wears the same black dress everyday, with striped tights and
MARY JANE
shoes and is often accompanied by her black cats. She has an anti-authority attitude exemplified by the motto, “Get Lost!” Fans, mostly tween and teen girls, can now buy a bewildering amount of Emily-branded clothes, backpacks, pencil cases, jewelry, footwear, make-up and much, much more. There’s a series of comic books and young adult novels, and a feature film is in development. Apparently, real girls with black hair and cats find nothing bizarre about wearing a T-shirt of a make-believe girl with black hair and cats, but we can all agree the world is a much stranger place thanks to Emily.
EMO
Not Goth.
ENGLAND
Home of
BAUHAUS
,
THE CURE
and
THE SISTERS OF MERCY
and thus, ground zero for
POST-PUNK
and
GOTHIC ROCK
. Lucky are those who lived in the era to enjoy wearing
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
T-shirts out to the
BATCAVE
in the early days/nights. But from
WHITBY GOTHIC WEEKEND
to
CYBERDOG
and
SLIMELIGHT
and the
HIGHGATE CEMETERY
, there is still much to be discovered there, including the second-largest serious concentration of Goths outside of
GERMANY
. If you’re heading over for a trip, best save up and dress up.
ETHEREAL
Musical subgenre of somewhat dubious origin and definition but generally meant to encompass bands with dreamy atmospherics, most often featuring angelic, soprano female vocals and shimmery, reverb-soaked guitars, as distinct from more aggressive rock or more purely sedate
AMBIENT
or
NEW WAVE
. Applied retroactively to 1980s English
POST-PUNK
groups on the
4AD
label such as the
COCTEAU TWINS
and
DEAD CAN DANCE
during the 1990s when new artists, including Americans
BLACK TAPE FOR A BLUE GIRL
and Faith & Disease embraced the idea, although by this time the term
DARKWAVE
was more commonly used. Somewhat out of style but remains popular with
ROMANTIGOTH
s.
See also:
Darkwave
ETSY
Online marketplace for handmade arts and crafts and a growing community of independent Goth clothing designers, jewellers, doll makers, knitters, visual artists and all-round creative types. At time of typing, more than 45,000 Goth items were listed, from elaborate
STEAMPUNK
brass pendants to plastic skull bunny keychains. The go-to site for unique DIY products. (The misguided ones show on up the hilariously cruel blog Regretsy.)
EVANESCENCE
American hard rock group who sold a gazillion records in 2003 based on the ubiquitous radio single “Bring Me to Life.” The only reason you even know or care is because of singer Amy Lee (b. December 13, 1981), a lovely dark princess with long dyed black hair who often wears tattered,
VICTORIAN
-style ballgowns and tight
CORSET
s with big boots, which helped indoctrinate a new generation of young girls into Gothdom — where they will hopefully discover some better music.
(EVERYDAY IS) HALLOWEEN
Song by American industrial band Ministry, originally released in 1984 as a 12" single on emerging Chicago indie label
WAX TRAX!
, later reissued on the compilation
Twelve Inch Singles
. With its bouncy
SYNTHPOP
rhythms and lyrics all about woe-begotten Goth life, it’s up there with “
BELA LUGOSI’S DEAD
” on the short list of universal Goth anthems, and probably outstrips the former as the single most played song in Goth clubs worldwide, not only at Halloween but, yes, everyday.
EVIL WILLOW
Alter-ego of the
BUFFY THE VAMPIRE SLAYER
character Willow Rosenberg, as seen in the season 6 episodes “Villains,” “Two to Go” and “Grave.” Willow turns to the dark side of magic, overwhelmed with vengeful rage over the death of her girlfriend. In contrast to her usual bookish self, Evil Willow (also known as “Dark Willow”) changes appearance — red hair turns black, eyes darken, creepy veins appear on her face — and transforms into a very, very bad witch indeed. The Evil Willow character remains much beloved for its power and its, well, evilness. There’s even a trilogy of “Wicked Willow” tie-in novels. Combined with the “Vamp Willow” doppelgänger seen in season 3, it has made the character, and actress Alyson Hannigan, an object of affection for Goths of all persuasions. (Not to mention an excellent
HALLOWEEN
costume.)
EXPRESSIONISM
Cultural movement from the early 1890s originating in
GERMANY
that set the angst-filled, melodramatic tone for the kind of poetry, art, philosophy and film Goths love to name-drop, from Nietzsche to
NOSFERATU
.
EYELINER
Essential cosmetic item for both boys and girls — in black of course. From the daintiest cat’s eye to full-blown Cleopatra/
SIOUXSIE
looks, in
KOHL
pencil or liquid paint, the cheapest and easiest way to express one’s commitment to Gothness. Despite the plethora of YouTube tutorials encouraging otherwise, you might want to reconsider painting spiders and elaborate swirls on your cheeks with it after the age of twenty. Also, beware
CROW MAKE-UP
.
See also:
Guyliner
EYE OF HORUS
Ancient Egyptian symbol of protection, as worn by the goddess Wadjet as a personification of the sky god Horus. Essentially a falcon eye crying: how Goth! No wonder it’s a popular
EYELINER
design, even before
THE SISTERS OF MERCY
used it at cover art for their
Vision Thing
album. Note: traditionally the right eye represents the sun, the left eye the moon. So if you’re wearing it for
GOTH POINTS
, choose wisely.