Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation (65 page)

Roussel, Philippe, and Hubert Chiron.
Les pains Français: evolution, qualité, production.
Vesoul: Mae-Erti,
2002.

Thorne, John.
Outlaw Cook.
New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1992. See the section “The Baker’s
Apprentice.”

Wing, Daniel, and Alan Scott.
The
Bread Builders: Hearth Loaves and Masonry Ovens.
White River Junction, VT:
Chelsea Green, 1999. Contains an excellent discussion of sourdough microbiology as well
as an interview with Chad Robertson done when he was baking in Point Reyes.

Wood, Ed.
Classic Sourdoughs.
Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2001.

Cordain, Loren. “Cereal Grains:
Humanity’s Double-Edged Sword.”
World Review of Nutrition and
Dietetics.
Vol. 84. Basel, Switzerland: Karger (1999): 19–73.

Czapp, Katherine. “Against the
Grain.” Published on the Web site of The Weston A. Price Foundation, July 16,
2006.
http://www.westonaprice.org/digestive-disorders/against-the-grain
.

Di Cagno, Raffaella, et al.
“Sourdough Bread Made from Wheat and Nontoxic Flours and Started with Selected
Lactobacilli Is Tolerated in Celiac Sprue Patients.”
Applied and Environmental
Microbiology
(February 2004): 1088–96. This study suggests that a long
sourdough fermentation may render wheat less toxic to people with celiac disease.

Jacobs, David R., Jr., and Lyn M.
Steffen. “Nutrients, Foods, and Dietary Patterns as Exposures in Research: A
Framework for Food Synergy.”
American Journal of Clinical Nutrition
78
(suppl) (2003): 508S–13S.

———, et al. “Food Synergy: An
Operational Concept for Understanding Nutrition.”
American Journal of Clinical
Nutrition
89 (suppl) (2009): 1543S–8S.

———, and Linda C. Tapsell.
“Food, Not Nutrients, Is the Fundamental Unit in Nutrition.”
Nutrition
Reviews
Vol. 65, No. 10 (2007): 439–50.

———, and Daniel D. Gallaher.
“Whole Grain Intake and Cardiovascular Disease: A Review.”
Current
Atherosclerosis Reports
6 (2004): 415–23.

Lindeberg, Staffan.
Food and
Western Disease: Health and Nutrition from an Evolutionary Perspective
. Oxford:
Wiley-Blackwell, 2010.

Price, Weston A.
Nutrition and
Physical Degeneration
(7th edition). La Mesa, CA: Price-Pottenger Nutrition
Foundation, 2006.

Rizzello, Carlo G., et al.
“Highly Efficient Gluten Degradation by Lactobacilli and Fungal Proteases During
Food Processing: New Perspectives for Celiac Disease.”
Applied and
Environmental Microbiology
(July 2007): 4499–507.

Spiller, Gene, and Monica Spiller.
What’s with Fiber?
Laguna Beach, CA: Basic Health Publications,
2005.

Taubes, Gary.
Good Calories, Bad
Calories
. New York: Knopf, 2007.

Van den Broeck, Hetty C., et al.
“Presence of Celiac Disease Epitopes in Modern and Old Hexaploid Wheat Varieties:
Wheat Breeding May Have Contributed to Increased Prevalence of Celiac Disease.”
Theoretical and Applied Genetics
121 (2010): 1527–39.

Bamforth, Charles.
Food,
Fermentation and Micro-organisms
. Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell, 2005.

Buehler, Emily.
Bread Science: The
Chemistry and Craft of Making Bread
. Hillsborough, NC: Two Blue Books,
2006.

Ganzle, Michael G., et al.
“Carbohydrate, Peptide and Lipid Metabolism of Lactic Acid Bacteria in
Sourdough.”
Food Microbiology
24 (2007): 128–38.

Kitahara, M., et al.
“Biodiversity of
Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis
Strains Isolated from
Five Sourdoughs.”
Letters in Applied Microbiology
40 (2005): 353–57. An
early study using DNA sequencing to identify the bacterial species in a sourdough
culture.

Kulp, Karel, and Klaus Lorenz.
Handbook of Dough Fermentations
. New York: Marcel Dekker, 2003. Excellent
anthology of scientific articles on the microbiology of sourdough bread.

MacGuire, James. “Pain au
Levain: The Best Flavor, Acidity, and Texture and Where They Come From.”
Art
of Eating
, No. 83 (Winter 2009).

Scheirlinck, I., et al.
“Molecular Source Tracking of Predominant Lactic Acid Bacteria in Traditional
Sourdoughs and Their Production Environments.”
Journal of Applied
Microbiology
106 (2009): 1081–92. This study found that
L.
sanfranciscensis
, once thought to be native to the San Francisco Bay Area, is
common in European sourdough cultures.

Sugihara, T. F., L. Kline, and M. W.
Miller. “Microorganisms of the San Francisco Sour Dough Bread Process.”
Applied Microbiology
21, 3: 456–58.

Thiele, C., et al. “Contribution
of Sourdough Lactobacilli, Yeast and Cereal Enzymes to the Generation of Amino Acids in
Dough Relevant for Bread Flavor.”
Cereal Chemistry
79, 1: 45–51.

Weckx, Stefan, et al. “Community
Dynamics of Bacteria in Sourdough Fermentations as Revealed by Their
Metatranscriptome.”
Applied and Environmental Microbiology
(August 2010):
5402–8. This study found that the ecosystem in a sourdough culture tended to stabilize
over time.

Aftel, Mandy, and Daniel Patterson.
Aroma: The Magic of Essential Oils in Food & Fragrance.
New York:
Artisan, 2004.

Fincks, Henry T. “The
Gastronomic Value of Odours” in
Contemporary Review.
Vol. L
(July–December 1886). Early study of the relationship of taste and smell and their
combined effect in producing flavor. May be the first published description of
retronasal olfaction, which he calls “our second way of smelling.”

Gilbert, Avery.
What the Nose
Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday Life.
New York: Crown, 2008.

Rozin, Paul. “Taste-Smell
Confusions and the Duality of the Olfactory Sense.”
Perception and
Psychophysics
31, 4 (1982): 397–401. One of the first analyses of retronasal
olfaction and its role in detecting and cataloguing flavor.

Shepherd, Gordon M.
Neurogastronomy: How the Brain Creates Flavor and Why It Matters.
New York:
Columbia University, 2012. The latest science of retronasal olfaction.

Albala, Ken. “Bacterial
Fermentation and the Missing
Terroir
Factor in Historic Cookery.” In
Cured, Fermented and Smoked Foods: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food
and Cookery 2010
. Devon, England: Prospect Books, 2011.

Bilger, Burkhard.
“Nature’s Spoils.”
New Yorker
, November 22, 2010. An
excellent profile of Sandor Katz and the underground food movement.

Jacobsen, Rowan.
American
Terroir:
Savoring the Flavors of Our Woods, Waters, and Fields
. New York:
Bloomsbury, 2010. Especially the chapters on cheese and wine.

Katz, Sandor Ellix.
The Art of
Fermentation
. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green, 2012. With a foreword by
Michael Pollan. Sandor Katz’s magnum opus and indispensable to anyone interested
in fermented foods.

———. “Fermentation as a
Coevolutionary Force.” In
Cured, Fermented and Smoked Foods: Proceedings of
the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2010
. Devon, England: Prospect Books,
2011.

———.
Wild Fermentation: The
Flavor, Nutrition and Craft of Live-Culture Food
. White River Junction, VT:
Chelsea Green, 2003. An exhilarating if somewhat rough-edged manifesto for
fermentos.

Lewin, Alex.
Real Food
Fermentation: Preserving Whole Fresh Food with Live Cultures in Your Home
Kitchen.
Minneapolis: Quarry Books, 2012.

Margulis, Lynn, and Dorion Sagan.
Dazzle Gradually: Reflections on the Nature of Nature
. White River
Junction, VT: Chelsea Green, 2007.

———.
Microcosmos: Four Billion
Years of Evolution from Our Microbial Ancestors
. New York: Summit Books,
1986.

Mintz, Sidney W. “The Absent
Third: The Place of Fermentation in a Thinkable World Food System.” In
Cured,
Fermented and Smoked Foods: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery
2010
. Devon, England: Prospect Books, 2011.

Steinkraus, K.H. “Fermentation
in World Food Processing.” In
Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food
Safety
, Vol. 1 (2002). Published by the Institute of Food Technologists. A
comprehensive survey of fermented foods and beverages from around the world.

Trubek, Amy B.
The Taste of Place:
A Cultural Journey into
Terroir. Berkeley: University of California, 2008.

Andoh, Elizabeth.
Kansha:
Celebrating Japan’s Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions
. Berkeley: Ten Speed
Press, 2010. See especially the chapter on tsukémono, Japan’s extraordinary
pickling tradition.

Fallon, Sally, with Mary Enig.
Nourishing Traditions: The Cookbook That Challenges Politically Correct
Nutrition and the Diet Dictocrats
. Washington, DC: New Trends Publishing,
2001.

Haekyung, Chung.
Korean Cuisine: A
Cultural Journey
. Seoul: Korea Foundation, 2009.

Lee, Chun Ja.
The Book of
Kimchi
. Seoul: J=Korea Information Service, 1999.

Madison, Deborah.
Preserving Food
Without Freezing or Canning: The Gardeners and Farmers of Terre Vivante
. White
River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green, 2007.

Pederson, Carl. S., and Margaret N.
Albury.
The Sauerkraut Fermentation.
Geneva, NY: New York Agricultural
Experiment Station, Bulletin 824, December 1969.

Plengvidhya, V., F. Breidt, Z. Lu, and
H. P. Fleming. “DNA Fingerprinting of Lactic Acid Bacteria in Sauerkraut
Fermentations.”
Applied and Environmental Microbiology
73, 23 (2007):
7697–702.

Yoon, Sook-ja.
Good Morning,
Kimchi!: Forty Different Kinds of Traditional and Fusion Kimchi Recipes
.
Elizabeth, NJ: Hollym, 2005.

Start with the National Institutes of
Health’s Web site for the human microbiome project:
http://www.hmpdacc.org
/. It has links to many
academic articles on the subject. The articles below I found particularly helpful:

Ainsworth, Claire. “I Am Legion:
Myriad Microbes Living in Your Gut Make You Who You Are.”
New Scientist,
May 14, 2011.

Bengmark, D. “Ecological Control
of the Gastrointestinal Tract: The Role of Probiotic Flora.”
Gut
42
(1998): 2–7.

Benson, Alicia, et al. “Gut
Commensal Bacteria Direct a Protective Immune Response Against
Toxoplasma
gondii
.”
Cell Host & Microbe
6, 2 (2009): 187–96.

Blaser, Martin J. “Who Are We?
Indigenous Microbes and the Ecology of Human Disease.”
European Molecular
Biology Organization
, Vol. 7, No. 10, 2006.

Bravo, Javier A., et al.
“Ingestion of Lactobacillus Strain Regulates Emotional Behavior and Central GABA
Receptor Expression in a Mouse Via the Vagus Nerve.”
www.pnas.org/cgi/doi/10.1073/pnas.1102999108
.

Desiere, Frank, et al.
“Bioinformatics and Data Knowledge: The New Frontiers for Nutrition and
Food.”
Trends in Food Science & Technology
12 (2002): 215–29.

Douwes, J., et al. “Farm
Exposure in Utero May Protect Against Asthma.”
European Respiratory
Journal
32 (2008): 603–11.

Ege, M.J., et al. Parsifal study team.
“Prenatal Farm Exposure Is Related to the Expression of Receptors of the Innate
Immunity and to Atopic Sensitization in School-Age Children.”
Journal of
Allergy Clinical Immunology
117 (2006): 817–23.

Flöistrup, H., et al. “Allergic
Disease and Sensitization in Steiner School Children.”
Journal of Allergy and
Clinical Immunology
117 (2006): 59–66.

Gershon, Michael D.
The Second
Brain: Your Gut Has a Mind of Its Own.
New York: Quill, 1998.

Greer, Julie B., and Stephen John
O’Keefe. “Microbial Induction of Immunity, Inflammation, and Cancer.”
Frontiers in Physiology
, Vol. 1, article 168 (January 2011).

Hehemann, Jan-Hendrik, et al.
“Transfer of Carbohydrate-Active Enzymes from Marine Bacteria to Japanese Gut
Microbiota.”
Nature
. Vol. 464 (April 8, 2010). This is the study that
found that genes from a marine bacterium had been taken up by gut bacteria among the
Japanese, allowing them to digest carbohydrates in seaweed.

Jung, Ji Young, et al.
“Metagenomic Analysis of Kimchi, a Traditional Korean Fermented Food.”
Applied and Environmental Microbiology
(April 2011): 2264–74.

Kaplan, Jess L., et al. “The
Role of Microbes in Developmental Immunologic Programming.”
Pediatric
Research
, Vol. 69, No. 6 (2011).

Karpa, Kelly Dowhower.
Bacteria
for Breakfast: Probiotics for Good Health
. Victoria, BC: Trafford Publishing,
2003.

Ley, Ruth E. “Worlds Within
Worlds: Evolution of the Vertebrate Gut Microbiota.”
Nature Reviews
, Vol.
6 (October 2008).

O’Keefe, Stephen J.D.
“Nutrition and Colonic Health: The Critical Role of the Microbiota.”
Current Opinion in Gastroenterology
24 (2008): 51–58.

Parvez, S., et al. “Probiotics
and Their Fermented Food Products Are Beneficial for Health.”
Journal of
Applied Microbiology
100 (2006): 1171–85.

Perkin, Michael R., et al.
“Which Aspects of the Farming Lifestyle Explain the Inverse Association with
Childhood Allergy?”
Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology
Vol. 117,
No. 6.