Tofu
Made in the same way that cheese is made from cow’s milk, tofu is produced by adding a curdling agent to soymilk. Though it is the source of many jokes in the Western world, tofu has a long and sacred history in the East. It’s believed that the first tofu shops were located within the walls of Buddhist temples and the first tofu makers were monks. There is still a sense of the sacred attached to tofu and tofu-making in many parts of Asia today. It has been used for nearly 2,000 years in China and is a daily staple in most Asian households. Throughout Asia tofu is made fresh daily from soybeans in small shops and sold on the street by vendors.
If calcium sulfate is used in the manufacturing process, tofu is a good source of calcium. The protein content varies depending on processing, but some types, especially those that are more firm, are very high in protein.
Two properties give tofu great culinary versatility. First, its flavor is relatively bland. Second, it is a porous food that takes on the flavor of other foods and ingredients with ease. This explains why tofu is at home in spicy entrees or in creamy sweet desserts.
The key to success with tofu is to choose the right type for the job. If you are stir-frying chunks of tofu with veggies to serve over rice, choose firm tofu. Soft tofu is perfect to mash or puree as a filling for sandwiches or lasagna. And the tofu that is traditional to Japanese cooking, silken tofu, is a soft, custard-like food that can be blended or pureed for sauces, smoothies, or desserts. It is a great replacement for the cream in creamed soup recipes.
Frozen tofu takes on a chewy, spongy texture that makes it a useful meat substitute. Freeze it right in the unopened package. Then defrost, squeeze out the liquid, and chop or shred it.
Whole cookbooks are devoted to tofu, and we’ve included one of our favorites,
Tofu Cookery
by Louise Hagler, in the list of resources at the end of this book.
Okara
The word “kara” refers to the hull of the soybean, and the addition of “o” turns it into “honorable hull.” This is the portion left behind when liquid is squeezed from the soaked soybean to make soymilk. It’s high in protein and fiber and is sometimes used to give a protein boost to baked goods like muffins or cookies. In Japan, okara is sometimes sautéed with vegetables and served with rice. You may be able to find okara in natural foods stores, but the best place to track it down is in an Asian market.
FERMENTED SOYFOODS
Tempeh
In Indonesia, it’s spelled
tempe
, and it is an ancient cultural staple of cooking in that part of the world. Today, tempeh-making is still a home-based art in which whole soybeans are treated with a “starter” and wrapped in banana leaves to ferment. Tempeh can be made from soybeans only or soybeans in combination with grains. The texture is tender and chewy, and the savory flavor is sometimes described as “yeasty” or “mushroom-like” or just indescribably delicious. In traditional meals, it’s sautéed with vegetables and served over rice, sometimes with peanut sauce. Tempeh baked in barbecue sauce is a favorite with many vegans. Tempeh is a good source of protein, fiber, iron, and calcium. Contrary to popular opinion, however, it is not a good source of active vitamin B
12
.
Miso
With a full-bodied flavor that is unmatched by any western condiment, miso captures the essence of Japanese cooking. This salty, fermented soybean paste (usually with addition of other beans or grains) comes in
different colors—white, red, and brown—and the flavor varies greatly among types, with some being more fruity or wine-like than others. In fact, in Japan, miso production is regarded in a similar fashion to wine-making in other parts of the world. Miso is very high in sodium and a little goes a long way. Use it to make broths and sauces.
Natto
Made from whole soybeans fermented with a bacterial culture, natto has a distinctive aroma, flavor, and texture, which is often described as “gooey.” It is a popular breakfast food in Japan, served with rice, but has not made its way onto many American menus. It may be the only known plant food that is high in vitamin K
2
.
WESTERN SOYFOODS
Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP™)
Made from defatted soy flour, TVP is a dried granular product that can be rehydrated with boiling water and used in place of ground beef. Plain TVP tastes best when cooked in tomato sauce and is good for pasta dishes or chili. In her cookbook
Vegan Comfort Food
, Alicia Simpson recommends rehydrating 1 cup dry TVP with 1 cup of dark vegetable stock and 1 tablespoon of hickory liquid smoke. TVP is a very inexpensive source of protein with a long shelf life, and it’s a good source of protein, fiber, and calcium.
Isolated Soy Protein
Many veggie meats use soy protein as a base. For those who are just making the transition to veganism or who are too busy to cook, veggie meats made from soy protein isolate can be life-savers.
Will You “Detox” When You Go Vegan?
One popular idea that circulates through vegan circles is that going vegan causes your body to “detox.” The theory is that you’ll have a few days or weeks of feeling awful as your body eliminates the toxic buildup from your not-so-healthy omnivore diet.
It’s not true. For one thing, we are always detoxing. Normal everyday metabolism produces toxic compounds. The body has extensive systems in place—mostly involving the liver, kidneys, and lungs—that detoxify and/or excrete these compounds. It’s true that a healthy lifestyle keeps these systems operating at optimal levels. But going vegan—even if you do it suddenly—does not produce a massive cleansing of toxins.
Likewise, there is no evidence that omnivores have physical addictions to animal foods. It may feel difficult to give up favorite foods like cheese and ice cream, but you won’t suffer any physical withdrawal symptoms, unless you don’t get enough protein or calories.
WHAT VEGANS EAT
Vegans love to say that giving up animal foods didn’t shrink their food horizons; it expanded them. Is it true? We asked seventeen friends—health professionals, activists, athletes, cookbook authors, and a few teens—to tell us their favorite dinner that they cook at home. Their answers are proof positive that nobody knows good food like a vegan!
ERICA MEIER
Executive Director, Compassion Over Killing
▶ Quinoa topped with stir-fried vegetables, chick peas, and tempeh or veggie meats, like Field Roast or Gardein
“If I’m really feeling up for it, and have the ingredients, I might go all out and make the recipe for Pineapple Cashew Quinoa stir-fry from the cookbook
Veganomicon
. (We love quinoa, what can I say?)”
INGRID NEWKIRK
President of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals
“This lasts for days and changes in that time. I used to use beef bones in the old days, which makes me feel so sick to think of them clanging around in the bottom of the pot. I instantly weaned from that rich, bloody flavor by adding a couple of tablespoons of Marmite or Vegemite but now love to add a small can of medium-hot Mexican green chili peppers and tomatoes at the end.
I use a base of Manischewitz dry minestrone soup mix and just shove in any fresh and/or frozen veggies, usually potatoes, broccoli, a bag of mixed peas, carrots, tomatoes, or cauliflower, but really any vegetables, some garlic or not, some onion for sure, and bring it to the boil and then let it simmer. I am Phyllis Diller in the kitchen—shouldn’t be there. But I love this, can thermos it to work, take it on the train, pour it over rice, leave the Mex spice bits out, and add lentils or more peas or corn, and then before it all disappears, spice it up. Love it with a warm baguette, with crackers or croutons, on toast or rice. And my old dog, Ms. Bea, worshipped it. It’s dirt cheap too.”
LOUISE HAGLER
The Soybean Queen, cookbook author and soybean pioneer
Louise, who works with the hunger relief organization Plenty International, says that this menu is a hit in her nutrition classes in Mexico.
▶ Chewy Tofu Nuggets (from the twenty-fifth anniversary edition of
Tofu Cookery
) rolled up in corn tortillas with sautéed Swiss chard and caramelized onions
REED MANGELS, PHD, RD
Co-author of the American Dietetic Association’s Position on
Vegetarian Diets; Lecturer, Nutrition Department,
University of Massachusetts; and Nutrition Advisor
to the Vegetarian Resource Group
Reed says that sushi is a meal she doesn’t make very often, because it’s time-consuming, but both of her teenage daughters, Leah and Sarah, choose it as a favorite.
“I cook the rice (using the Nori-Maki Sushi recipe and instructions in Nava Atlas’s
Vegetarian Celebrations
) and prepare bowls of fillings. Everyone makes his or her favorite filling combination, rolls the sushi, and we slice it. Here are some favorite fillings:
• Baked tofu
• Avocado strips
• Cucumber strips
• Carrot strips
• Peas
• Red pepper strips
• Steamed zucchini strips
• Asparagus
“We often have peanut sauce and soy sauce for dipping the sushi. I usually make a stir-fry using whatever vegetables are around. Watermelon slices in summer or chocolate chip cookies from
Joy of Vegan Baking
for dessert.”
JON CAMP
Director of Outreach for Vegan Outreach
Jon is always on the road, so we let him share a restaurant meal instead of one that he cooks at home.
“My favorite meal is the vegetarian platter from Ethiopian restaurants. You get to choose from a number of items. I opt for split peas, collard greens, sliced cabbage with carrots, red lentils, and string beans with potatoes. Additionally, various places throughout the United States offer tofu dishes and/or mock meats. All of these selections are cooked in sauces teeming with garlic, ginger, onions, etc. No silverware is required; you scoop the food up with
injera
, a slightly spongy bread made from teff flour. Ethiopian restaurants can be found in virtually every major metropolitan region throughout the country. In short, it is the stuff of the gods.”
BRYANNA CLARK GROGAN
Bryanna has been studying food and cooking for forty years and has written eight vegan cookbooks. Her favorite menu is the following Italian-style autumn dinner. The recipes are all from her cookbooks
Nonna’s Italian Kitchen
and
World Vegan Feast
.
• Vegan Italian Cream of Cabbage Soup (
Passato di Cavalo
)
• Lentil and Rapini Stew with Spicy Vegan Italian Sausage (using Field Roast or Tofurky sausages)
• Homemade No-Knead Crusty Artisan Bread
• Sicilian Style Fennel and Orange Salad (mixed greens, sliced oranges, fennel, red onion, black olives, and red wine vinaigrette)
• Crostata di Pere (Italian pear tart in a low-fat corn pastry)
• Homemade Almond Cream Whipped Topping (or commercial vegan vanilla ice cream)
SCOTT SPITZ
“We make awesome food on a consistent basis in this household! We are big fans of combining foods to make one big meal (stir-fry, pasta with peanut sauce and veggies, etc.). But this is a favorite dinner with vegetables on the side.”
• BBQ tempeh on a bed of brown rice and steamed kale
• A side of sweet potatoes
• Apple crisp for dessert
JANE VELEZ-MITCHELL
Newscaster and host of
CNN’s
Issues with Jane Velez-Mitchell
“My favorite meal is kasha with soy butter. Kasha is a warm cereal eaten in Eastern Europe. It’s generally made of buckwheat groats. That may not sound tasty but it is. It will make you as strong as a horse! Kasha is so simple to make: Just get some from your local health food store or coop, add some water, and turn up the flame on your burner. Voila! Add soy butter to taste. It is hearty, nutritious, and delicious! FYI, this is one of the oldest porridge-style meals in Eastern Europe, so get back to basics and try some kasha!”
SAM STAHLER
Twelve-year-old son of Debra Wasserman and Charles Stahler,
co-founders of the Vegetarian Resource Group
Sam gave us two menus and his mom said that he makes these himself.
• For breakfast: Scrambled tofu with onion, carrots, soyrizo or chopped veggie “bacon,” seasoned with pepper, turmeric, and cayenne and served with fortified orange juice
• For dinner: Canned Amy’s vegan chili (spicy only!) and rice with broccoli or kale
ISA CHANDRA MOSKOWITZ
Author of cookbooks including the acclaimed
Veganomicon
• Cauliflower mashed potatoes
• Mushroom gravy
• Garlicky sautéed Swiss shard
• Baked tempeh
PAUL SHAPIRO
Senior Director, The Humane Society
of the United States’ Factory Farming Campaign