The Primal Blueprint Cookbook (12 page)

Marrow is the soft, fatty filling in the hollow center of leg bones, a richly flavored treat considered by many to be a delicacy. Marrow bones can be purchased at most meat counters, although you might have to make a special request ahead of time. Briefly cooking the bones softens the fatty marrow and turns it into a runny, velvety consistency. It can be eaten straight from the bones with a tiny spoon, but we like to add a sprinkle of parsley salad on top to lighten and brighten the flavor.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat oven to 450°F. Put bones in a foil-lined baking dish. Cook until marrow is soft, about 15 minutes.

While marrow is cooking, combine parsley, shallot, olive oil, lemon juice and zest and salt in small bowl.

To serve, scoop out marrow and sprinkle with parsley salad.

Sweetbreads are prized by chefs for a silky, buttery texture and delicate flavor. Although not pretty to look at in raw form, sweetbreads are quite unthreatening when cooked. Grilling sweetbreads is an easy way to prepare them at home and creates a crispy outside that perfectly contrasts the soft, delicate middle.

Sweetbreads can be special ordered from most butchers or found in some ethnic markets. Plan to cook them within a day of purchase to insure they are as fresh as possible. Boiling the sweetbreads briefly in vinegar and water removes any blood and impurities, improving both the flavor and texture. It also partially cooks the sweetbreads so they need less time on the grill and will be nicely browned when the middle is cooked, not charred black.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Rinse sweetbreads well, then transfer to a large pot with water, vinegar, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer gently 10 minutes. Drain sweetbreads in a colander, then transfer to a bowl of ice and cold water to cool.

Drain sweetbreads, then pat dry gently but thoroughly and separate into pieces about 2–3 inches in length. In a bowl, coat the sweetbreads with oil then thread onto skewers, Season lightly with salt and pepper. For more flavor, consider sprinkling with fresh herbs before grilling or adding a very light coating of mustard.

Grill sweetbreads over medium-high heat with the grill cover on until golden brown and cooked through the middle, about five minutes on each side.

Chicken is a nice change of pace from red meat and pork. The key is to forget all the dry, bland chicken breasts of your past and rediscover how intensely flavorful fowl can be. Rather than viewing the mild flavor of chicken as a negative, remember that its mild flavor makes chicken the perfect meat to be paired with more assertive seasonings. Curries and other blends of spices, fresh herbs and loads of garlic can all turn chicken into a memorable meal.

Chicken isn’t the only fowl out there, however. Turkey, duck and goose are birds that tend to be relegated to holidays only, but there is no reason you can’t start enjoying them more regularly. Know that duck and goose are tougher and fattier, and can’t always be substituted in recipes that call for chicken or turkey.

As with other types of meat, buy organic whenever possible. Poultry labeled as “free-range” implies (but doesn’t always guarantee) the birds were given access to the outdoors during their life. It does, however, mean the meat is free of hormones and antibiotics.

Heritage breeds of fowl are being raised by more and more farmers who want to preserve breeds that have been absent from American kitchens for decades. Heritage breeds are more expensive to raise, as their growth and reproduction occurs on a natural schedule rather than one supplemented by hormones and antibiotics. This makes them more expensive to buy, but heritage breeds are worth considering for their more intense flavor and the humane and sustainable way in which they are raised.

You can’t go wrong with the combination of spicy curry and faintly sweet coconut milk. The flavors in this dish are assertive, but not so much that they’ll put off less adventurous or younger palates.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Heat oil in a large skillet or flameproof casserole, add chicken or duck pieces and cook over medium-high heat 8–10 minutes, turning once or twice to brown exterior.

Remove meat pieces from the pan to a large plate or platter. If using duck and excessive fat renders out, pour all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan (strain it and save for other uses). Add mustard seeds, and cook about 1 minute, until they begin to pop.

Add onion to the pan and cook, scraping up the fond, the flavorful brown bits on the bottom of the pan, until soft and golden.

Stir in garlic, ginger root, green chili, and ground spices; cook about 2 minutes. Stir in vinegar, then return pieces of meat to the pan, turning to coat the pieces all over with the spicy mixture.