Authors: Conrad Anker,David Roberts
Cerro Stanhardt, 98
Cerro Torre, 98
Chang La, 77
Charterhouse public school, 50-51, 75
Cheesmond, Dave, 27
China, 66, 69, 162
China Reconstructs
, 72, 150, 151
Chinese embassy, in Belgrade, 66
Chomolungma, 79, 175
Cho Oyu, 57, 140
Chu Yin-hua, 150-51
Clark, Liesl, 55, 56-57, 59, 61, 67-68, 69
Cliffhanger
, 61
Columbus, Ohio, 136
“coolies,” 77, 78-79
Copitko, Vasil, 93-94, 106
Copland, Erin, 55, 57, 59, 60, 61
Coval, Roman, 106
crampons, 17, 85, 124, 141, 164, 168
Crawford, Colin, 89
Cultural Revolution, 69
Czechoslovakia, 105
Daily Telegraph
(London), 64, 75
Dalai Lama, 71
Da Nuru “Dawa,” 140, 141, 143-44, 147-48, 158
Darjeeling, 21, 23, 49, 69, 81, 82, 174
Debrouwer, Pascal, 162
Denali (Mount McKinley), 13, 14, 57, 94, 99, 100, 142
dexamethasone, 95
Douglas, Lord Francis, 177
down-climbing, 157, 172
downhill alignment, of fall victims, 32, 173
Dublin, 51
Earhart, Amelia, 12
Eastern Europe, 105
East Rongbuk Glacier, 78, 80, 81, 84, 87, 113
Eiger, 83
Elbsandsteingebirge, 168
El Capitan, 98
endorphins, 104
Epic of Mount Everest, The
(Younghusband), 176, 178
Ethiopia, 59
Everest, Mallory’s 1921 expedition to, 23, 74-82
end of, 81-82
members of, 74, 75, 80, 81
newspaper coverage of, 75
reconnaissance of Everest conducted on, 75, 76-79, 84
team’s account of,
see Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance, 1921
weather conditions on, 75, 76, 77, 80-81
Everest, Mallory’s 1922 expedition to, 23, 36, 42, 82-91, 108, 116
altitude records set on, 87, 88, 124
avalanche fatalities on, 89-91, 110-11, 178
ice axe belay on, 87-88, 165
loss of Norton’s pack on, 85-86
members of, 83, 89
summit attempts made on, 86-87, 88-90, 118
team’s account of,
see Assault on Mount Everest, 1922, The
weather conditions on, 84, 86, 88
Everest, Mallory’s 1924 expedition to, 23-30, 39-53, 84, 87, 107, 108-34, 150, 175-80
altitude records set on, 24, 40, 71-72, 124-25, 126, 171
camera carried by Mallory on, 28, 35, 36, 38, 63, 129, 135, 163
clothing worn on, 21, 123, 166
final sighting of Mallory and Irvine on, 11-12, 25, 26, 39-40, 72, 130, 144, 150
first summit attempts made on, 122-28
food on, 124
Irvine as Mallory’s chosen partner on, 11, 24, 113-14, 116, 127
Irvine’s diary on, 24, 114-15, 116, 122
letters carried by Mallory on, 35, 61, 66, 67-69, 163
Mallory and Irvine roped together on, 171-72
Mallory and Irvine’s summit attempt on, 22-23, 25-28, 110, 128-34, 147, 151
Mallory’s climbing plan for, 110
Mallory’s crevasse fall on, 119
Mallory’s fatalism about, 92, 108
Mallory’s flashlight on, 36, 131, 166, 170, 176
members of, 83, 108-9
1933 discovery of ice axe from, 26
Norton and Somervell’s summit attempt on, 24
note from Mallory to Noel on, 23, 130, 166
porter problems on, 116-18, 119-21, 122
possible fate of Mallory and Irvine on, 170-74, 176
question of whether Mallory and Irvine reached the summit on, 12, 13, 15, 28, 39-40, 62-63, 69, 71, 72, 163-70, 178-80
rate of ascent on, 167, 171
sleeping bag signal on, 26, 133
sunburn suffered by Irvine on, 122-23, 128, 167, 170
team’s account of,
see Fight for Everest, The
weather conditions on, 23-24, 111, 116, 117, 119-20, 166, 169, 171
wristwatch worn by Mallory on, 139
Everest, Mount:
altitude at summit of, 23-24, 126
Conference Rock on, 142-43
difficulty of, 76, 80, 156, 162
exit cracks on, 94, 160, 171
first ascent from north claimed, 26
first official ascent of, 12
First Step of, 26, 40, 94, 125, 143-44, 145, 146, 154, 158, 161, 162, 165
fossils found on, 25, 130
Great Couloir of, 33, 72, 125-26, 150, 168
Kangshung Face of, 144, 156, 168
Mallory’s first sight of, 76
Mallory’s obsession with, 11, 24, 53, 76, 82-83, 91, 110
Mallory’s underestimation of, 80, 108, 131
memorial cairn on, 176-77
monsoon season on, 24, 27, 75, 76, 77, 80-81, 84, 89, 127, 169
mountaineers lost on, 39, 106
Mushroom Rock on, 144, 145, 147, 151, 158-59
North Col of, 54, 77, 78, 79-81, 84, 85, 89, 90, 92, 95, 104, 107, 110, 117, 118, 119, 121, 123, 124, 127, 128, 129, 140, 152, 164, 170, 178
northeast ridge of, 77, 94, 110, 142, 161-62
northeast shoulder of, 83
north face of, 17, 25, 27, 28, 39, 72, 83, 88, 89, 95
north ridge of, 28, 72, 150-51
Odell on inhospitableness of, 132-33
“old English dead” body found on, 26-27, 28, 29, 38, 72, 151, 173
oldest climbers of, 64
Plateau on, 153-54
record for most ascents of, 140
Second Step of, 26, 33, 71, 72, 85, 107, 125, 143, 144, 147, 148-53, 154, 158, 161-62, 163, 165-66, 167-69
South Col of, 72
southern approaches to, 84
South Summit of, 157
southwest face of, 39, 64
summit pyramid of, 25, 40, 80, 154
Third Step of, 154, 157, 165
Tibetan name for, 79
Yellow Band cliffs of, 94, 125, 141, 150, 158, 159-60, 164-65, 168, 170, 171-72, 173
Everest, 1999 search expedition to, 17-25, 30-38, 54-73, 78, 86, 135-60, 161-63
Anker recruited for, 29-30
burial of Mallory on, 37, 140
condition of Mallory’s body as found on, 21-22, 35, 36, 37, 139, 172-73
descent from summit by Anker and Hahn on, 157-60
DNA sample taken from Mallory’s body on, 22, 37, 64
excavation of Mallory’s body on, 33-36, 59
free-climbing of Second Step attempted by Anker on, 71, 148-53, 163, 169
Mallory’s “artifacts” found on, 35, 60-61, 66-69, 139, 162-63
Mallory’s body discovered on, 14-15, 16, 19-22, 28, 33-34, 38, 55, 56, 59, 60, 63, 66, 84
media and Internet coverage of, 29, 38, 55, 56-57, 58-66, 71, 74, 106, 162
members of, 22, 30
1924 oxygen bottle found on, 143
official title of, 96
other bodies discovered on, 32, 33, 56, 153-54, 160, 173
photographs taken of Mallory’s body on, 22, 34, 60, 61-62, 64, 66, 162
puja
ceremonies held for, 70-71
reactions and criticisms evoked by, 62-66
rescue of Ukrainian climbers on, 73, 93-96, 103-6
search vs. reaching summit as goal of, 30, 71, 135
second search of Mallory’s body on, 138-40
summit reached by Anker and Hahn on, 153-56
weather conditions on, 30, 73, 135, 143, 146, 154
Everest Committee, 74, 75, 83
Everest expeditions, 29, 30, 40, 96, 138
documentary films on, 63
1933 British, 26, 36, 131
1938 British, 26
1952 Soviet, 27
1953 Hillary?Tenzing, 12, 28, 77
1960 Chinese, 26, 72, 150-51, 168-69
1975 Chinese, 26-27, 29, 31, 38, 56, 72, 144, 148, 151, 173
1978 Habeler and Messner, 126
1979 Sino-Japanese, 26
1980 Messner, 33, 72
1986 U.S., 27
1988 Czech, 39
1985 Catalan, 169
1994 Rheinberger-Whetu, 146-47, 155, 157
1996 Indian, 153-54
1996 Japanese, 154
1999 Belgian, 161-62
1999 Polish, 161-62
1999 Ukrainian, 54, 73, 93-96, 103-6, 143, 145, 158
Everest: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine
, 63
Eyetooth, 99-100
Faulkner, William, 20
Fight for Everest, The
, 65-66, 71, 111, 112, 118, 120, 123, 127, 132-33, 134, 164, 165, 176
Finch, George, 83-84, 88-89, 124
Firstbrook, Peter, 70
First on Everest
(Holzel and Salkeld), 27, 87, 167
Fischer, Scott, 156
fixed ropes, 30, 58, 73, 104, 141,
143-44, 147-48, 153, 159, 160, 164-65
free-climbing, 71
frostbite, 81-82, 85, 86, 88, 89, 94, 96, 104, 105, 118, 120, 146, 158, 161, 162, 172
Gamma Liaison, 61
Garcia, João, 162
Gardner, Mount, 146
Garhwal Himalaya, 83
Gasherbrum II, 138
gentleman’s belay, 72, 153, 168
Giller, Sue, 27
“glacier lassitude,” 118
glaciers, 39, 77
goggles, 125
of Mallory, 36, 62-63
Good-bye to All That
(Graves), 46
goraks, 22, 32, 35, 37
Gorbach, Volodymyr, 93-96, 103-6
Grant, Duncan, 44, 45
Graves, Robert, 46, 50, 52, 75, 179
Great Britain, 62, 63-64, 82, 162, 168
Great Smoky Mountains, 13
“Greeter, the,” 32, 173
Gurkhas, 80, 116
Gurney Peak, 97
Gyachung Kang, 140
Habeler, Peter, 126
Hahn, Dave, 22, 30, 31, 34, 37, 55, 57, 59, 60, 61, 65, 67, 68, 70, 71, 96, 105, 106, 140, 141, 143, 144, 146, 147, 148, 152, 153, 154, 155-60
Hall, Becky, 103
Harris, Percy Wyn, 26
Harvard University, 12
Hasegawa, Ryoten, 26-27
Hazard, John de Vere, 109, 116, 117, 119-20, 123, 131, 132, 133
Hemmleb, Jochen, 29, 31, 33, 56, 60-61, 63, 67, 143, 151-52, 163
Henley Regatta, 41
Herschel House, 91
Hillary, Sir Edmund, 12, 28, 60, 64, 66, 77, 102, 175
Himalaya, 21, 74, 77, 80, 98, 105
hobnailed boots, 19, 72, 139, 164
Holt, 91
Holzel, Tom, 27-28, 29, 87, 167, 170
homosexuality, 43
Howard-Bury, Charles, 74, 78, 79
“How to Get Up the Second Step—A Topo Guide” (Hemmleb), 151-52
Hunter, Mount, 98
hydration, 17, 166-67
hypothermia, 28
ice axe belay, 87-88, 119, 165
IMAX, 63
IMG (International Mountain Guides), 57-58, 142
India, 83, 108, 110
surveyor-general of, 75
Indian Creek, Utah, 153
Internet, 55-56, 58-60, 63, 65, 66, 74
intestinal disorders, 155-56
Into Thin Air
(Krakauer), 154
Ireland, 51
“ironmongery,” 165
Irvine, Andrew “Sandy,” 15, 71, 111-16, 119, 122, 135, 177
as athlete, 112, 113
background of, 112-13
character of, 111-12, 113
climbing inexperience of, 24, 109
Everest expedition of,
see
Everest, Mallory’s 1924 expedition to
Mallory’s body assumed at first to be, 19, 22, 28, 34, 55
mechanical aptitude of, 24-25, 112-13
memorial service held for Mallory and, 177-78
oxygen equipment adjusted by, 24-25, 26, 113, 114-15, 170
Irving, R. L. G., 41, 42, 50
Isle of Skye, 45
Johnson, Boris, 64
Kailas, 30
Kampa Dzong, 109
Kangchenjunga, 40, 130
Kangshung Glacier, 106
Karakoram Range, 29, 31, 98, 138, 155
Kathmandu, 30, 70, 142
Kellas, A. M., 74, 75
Keynes, Geoffrey, 44, 92
Kharta Glacier, 78, 79, 81
Khumbu Glacier, 77
Khumbu valley, 140
Kichatna Spires, 13-14, 97, 100
Kiev, 106
Kilimanjaro, Mount, 57
Kodak Vestpocket camera, of Mallory, 28, 35, 36, 38, 63, 129, 135, 163
K2, 40
Kudelski, Tadusz, 161-62
Lambert, Raymond, 72
Latok II, 31, 98
Lhakpa La, 80, 81
Lho La, 77
Lhotse, 28
Lliwedd, 41-42, 53
Lobsang (Sherpa), 122
Logan, Mount, 12
Longstaff, Tom, 83, 90, 108, 115, 178
Lowe, Alex, 102
Lunn, Arnold, 113
McKinley, Mount (Denali), 13, 14, 57, 94, 99, 100, 142
Magdalene College, Cambridge University, 40, 41, 44, 52, 69, 163
Makalu, 79
Mallory, Avie (sister), 40, 41
Mallory, Beridge (daughter), 52, 91
Mallory, George, II (grandson), 64
Mallory, George Leigh:
absentmindedness of, 41-42, 83, 129, 131, 166
“Because it is there” remark of, 50, 91
birth of, 40
Cambridge-Bloomsbury friendships of, 42-45, 92
character of, 15, 40-41, 43, 50
critical writings of, 49
education of, 40-41, 42-44
Everest expeditions of,
see
Everest, Mallory’s 1921 expedition to; Everest, Mallory’s 1922 expedition to; Everest, Mallory’s 1924 expedition to
on God, 51
guilt over 1922 avalanche fatalities felt by, 90-91, 111
height and weight of, 42
legacy of, 174-75
mechanical ineptitude of, 42, 78, 129
memorial service held for Irvine and, 177-78
mountaineering accidents of, 47-49
mountaineering skill and style of, 11, 24, 40, 41, 45-47, 53, 76, 116, 118, 164, 176
mountaineering writings of, 49-50, 65, 76, 82, 84-85, 86-87, 88, 90, 92
physical beauty of, 11, 42, 44-45
political stance of, 51
as public lecturer, 82, 92-93, 108
sexuality of, 45
as teacher, 50-51, 75, 91, 92
Mallory, John (son), 22, 37, 52, 68, 69, 91
Mallory, Mary (sister), 67, 108, 111
Mallory, Ruth Turner (wife), 67, 92, 166, 177, 179
first meeting and marriage of Mallory and, 52
Mallory’s letters to, 24, 45, 49, 51, 52, 68, 74, 76, 79, 81, 88, 91, 108, 109, 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 119, 121, 122, 163
Mallory’s relationship with, 52, 68, 109
Mallory, Trafford (brother), 67
Matterhorn, 177
Maxim, Hiram, 113
Mellersh, Stella, 68
“Men and Mountains: The Gambler” (Mallory), 92
Merton College, Oxford University, 112
Messner, Reinhold, 33, 72, 126, 168
Meta fuel, 124
Microsoft, 59
Middle Triple Peak, 100-101