Authors: Rick Rodgers
Creamed Onions 101
When I serve creamed onions, I make Cheddar-Scalloped Baby Onions, which I love so much I sometimes worry that I might eat the whole dish by myself. Yet for many Americans it just isn’t Thanksgiving without a blindingly white (and bland, to my taste) bowl of creamed onions on the table. Once I made a huge bowl at the request of my friend Rose Curry. When I proudly presented them to her, she took exactly two onions. “I didn’t say I liked them,” she said quietly. “I just said it wouldn’t be Thanksgiving without them!!”
Makes 8 to 12 servings
Make Ahead: The creamed onions can be made up to 1 hour ahead.
1 cup milk
1 cup Homemade Turkey Stock 101 or
Homemade Chicken Stock (pages 34 and 35) or reduced-sodium canned chicken broth
1 bay leaf
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 (1-pound) bags thawed frozen baby onions, or
2 pounds pearl or white boiling onions, peeled and cooked (see above)
1.
In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the milk, broth, and bay leaf until tiny bubbles appear around the edges of the milk, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaf.
2.
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the flour and let bubble without browning for 1 minute. Whisk in the hot milk mixture and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens and no taste of raw flour remains, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with the salt and white pepper. Remove from the heat. Set the sauce aside. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the sauce, and pierce a few times with the tip of sharp knife to release the steam. Set the sauce aside. (The sauce can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Reheat gently over low heat, stirring often, until hot.)
3.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the onions and return to the boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender, about 3 minutes. Drain very well. Return to the warm cooking pot. Add the warm sauce and mix well. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately. (The creamed onions can be prepared up to 1 hour ahead, stored at room temperature. Reheat in a large saucepan over low heat, stirring often, until heated through.)
Cheddar-Scalloped Baby Onions:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare Creamed Onions, preferably with 2 pounds of fresh white, yellow, and red pearl onions. Stir 1½ cups extra-sharp Cheddar cheese into the hot creamed onions
until melted. Transfer to a lightly buttered 9 × 13-inch baking dish. Mix
2
/3 cup freshly prepared bread crumbs (preferably from day-old crusty bread) and
1
/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese and sprinkle over the onions. Dot with 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes. The onions can be prepared up to this point, cooled, covered, and refrigerated, for up to 1 day. Bake, uncovered, until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden brown, about 30 minutes.
Old-fashioned Mashed Potatoes 101
Mashed potatoes are as American as Thanksgiving itself. Variations range from wasabi to lobster chunks. But at Thanksgiving, nothing beats a well-made bowl of classic mashed potatoes. As with many other deceptively simple dishes, there are reasons why sometimes you have good mashed potatoes, and other times you have
great
mashed potatoes. Here are my secrets to make those great ones, served piping hot, ready for that big ladle of gravy:
Makes 8 to 12 servings
Make Ahead: The potatoes can be peeled and cut ahead, placed in the cooking pot, covered with cold water, and stored in a cool place for up to 4 hours.
5 pounds baking potatoes (such as russet, Idaho, Burbank, or Eastern)
Salt
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
¾ cup milk, heated, as needed
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1.
Fill a large (5 quarts or larger) pot halfway with cold water. Peel the potatoes and cut into chunks about 1½ inch square, and drop them into the pot. Add more cold water to completely cover the potatoes by 1 to 2 inches. (The potatoes can be prepared up to this point for 4 hours, stored at cool room temperature.)
2.
Stir in enough salt so that the water tastes mildly salted. Cover tightly and bring to a full boil over high heat, which should take at least 20 minutes, so allow sufficient time.
3.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and set the lid askew. Cook at a moderate boil until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife, about 25 minutes. Add more boiling water, if needed, to keep the potatoes covered.
4.
Drain the potatoes well and return to the warm cooking pot. Add the butter. Using an electric hand mixer, mash the potatoes, gradually adding enough milk to reach your desired consistency. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.
Garlic-Mascarpone Mashed Potatoes with Leeks
You simply won’t find a more sinful, more awe-inspiring mashed potato recipe on the planet. At first I balked at putting them on my Thanksgiving menu, which is hardly lacking in flavors or calories. But I knew I did the right thing when one guest remarked, “No offense, but next year, let’s serve these potatoes as the main course and serve the turkey on the side.” Because these are at their best when served immediately after making, have everything ready to roll so there’s no last-minute confusion.
Makes 8 servings
Make Ahead: The leeks can be prepared 1 day ahead, cooked, covered, and refrigerated.
LEEKS
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
6 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, coarsely chopped and well washed (4 cups)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
GARLIC MASHED POTATOES
4 pounds baking potatoes (such as russet, Idaho, Burbank, or Eastern)
Salt
½ cup milk, heated
12 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
One 8-ounce container mascarpone, at room temperature
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1.
To prepare the leeks, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. (The leeks can be prepared 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat in a skillet over medium heat.)
2.
To make the potatoes, peel the potatoes and cut them into 1-inch chunks. Place the potatoes in a large pot of lightly salted water and cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain well.
3.
Meanwhile, slowly heat the milk and garlic in a small saucepan over low heat until bubbles form around the edges of the milk. Remove from the heat and cover. Let stand to infuse the milk with the garlic, 15 to 30 minutes.
4.
Mash the drained potatoes with a potato masher or handheld electric mixer. Add the mascarpone and butter. Mix, adding enough of the garlic-milk mixture to reach the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the leeks. Serve immediately.
Make-Ahead Mashed Potato Casserole
I was a mashed potato snob who held tight to the belief that mashed potatoes are only worth eating when they are freshly made, until my friend, caterer/food stylist/restaurateur Katy Keck, set me straight. Katy, who is in the habit of cooking Thanksgiving dinner for over two dozen people, would never dream of trying to mash that many potatoes in one batch. She gave me this recipe for a delicious make-ahead casserole, with lots of dairy ingredients to keep the spuds moist.
Makes 8 to 12 servings
Make Ahead: The casserole can be prepared up to 1 day ahead.
5 pounds baking potatoes (such as russet, Idaho, Burbank, or Eastern)
Salt
8 ounces cream cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup sour cream, at room temperature
½ cup milk, heated
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Chopped chives or parsley, for garnish (optional)
1.
Fill a large pot (at least 5 quarts) halfway with cold water. Peel the potatoes and cut into chunks about 1½ inch square, and drop them into the pot. Add more cold water to cover the potatoes by 1 to 2 inches.
2.
Stir in enough salt so that the water tastes mildly salted. Cover tightly and bring to a full boil over high heat, allowing at least 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and set the lid askew. Cook at a moderate boil until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife, about 20 minutes. Do not overcook the potatoes.
3.
Drain the potatoes well and return to the warm pot. Add the cream cheese and butter. Using a handheld electric mixer, mash the potatoes until the cream cheese and butter melt. Beat in the sour cream and milk. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Transfer to a buttered 9 × 13-inch baking dish. Cool completely. (The potatoes can be prepared up 4 hours ahead, covered loosely with plastic wrap, and stored at cool room temperature; or cool, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 1 day.)