Read Saveur: The New Comfort Food Online
Authors: James Oseland
We’ve always loved the spicy, stick-to-your-ribs cuisine of Texas, but it wasn’t until we devoted an entire issue to Texan foodways in the summer of 2009 that we came to understand the Lone Star State’s equally impressive way with drinks. There’s the elegant yet potent sangria (our favorite is a midcentury recipe from the ladies at the Junior League of Houston), the refreshing cucumber cooler (a signature drink at the bar of the Gage Hotel, in Marathon, Texas), and the still-popular Tex-Mex originals like the garnet-colored Chico (a cocktail born in cantinas along the Texas–Mexico border during World War II). Revitalizing savory cocktails like the tart-spicy beer-based Michelada (all the rage in Austin) and the longhorn bull shot (a nod to the state’s cattle industry) will knock the dust off your spurs. And, of course, there are the best margaritas on earth. A few of our favorites are pictured.
This classic version has been the signature cocktail at the King Cole Bar at New York City’s St. Regis Hotel since 1934.
1 oz. vodka
2 oz. tomato juice
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice Worcestershire, to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Cayenne pepper, to taste Lemon wedge, for garnish
Makes 1 cocktail
Combine ingredients in a mixing glass, stir, and pour into an ice-filled Collins glass. Garnish with lemon.
S
AVEUR
contributing editor Rick Bayless suggested this variation, inspired by the Mexican beer cocktail michelada (see
Six Texan Cocktails
).
1 cup tomato juice
1 oz. fresh orange juice
1 oz. fresh grapefruit juice
1 oz. fresh lime juice, plus 1 lime wedge
½ oz. pomegranate juice (optional) Kosher salt, for garnish
4 oz. tequila blanco
1 12-oz. bottle Mexican beer Tabasco, to taste Worcestershire, to taste
4 pickled jalapeños, for garnish
Makes 4 cocktails
Combine juices in a pitcher; set aside. Spread salt on a plate. Rub the rim of 4 beer mugs with a lime wedge. Dip rims of mugs into salt. Fill mugs with ice and divide juice mixture between mugs. Add 1 oz. tequila and 3 oz. beer to each. Season with Tabasco and Worcestershire, stir, and add a jalapeño to each glass.
Pickled okra, beef broth, and a spoonful of tangy mustard make this substantial bloody mary, based on one served at the New Orleans restaurant Cochon, practically a course in itself.
4 oz. tomato juice
1 oz. beef broth
1 tsp. whole-grain mustard
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
1
/
8
tsp. garlic powder Tabasco, to taste Pickled okra juice, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste1½ oz. vodka Pickled okra, pickled green beans, and caper berries, for garnish
Makes 1 cocktail
In a mixing glass, combine the tomato juice, broth, mustard, lemon juice, lime juice, vinegar, and garlic powder and season with Tabasco, okra juice, and black pepper; refrigerate mixture until chilled. To serve, fill a rocks glass with ice cubes, pour in vodka, and stir in tomato juice mixture. Garnish with okra, beans, and caper berries.
Old Bay seasoning gives this drink, served at the Old Ebbitt Grill in Washington, D.C., a savory kick that works well with a garnish of boiled shrimp.
2 tbsp. Old Bay seasoning
1 lime wedge
1½ oz. vodka, preferably pepper flavored
1 oz. beef broth
3 oz. tomato juice
1¼ oz. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 large tail-on shrimp, peeled, boiled, and chilled
Makes 1 cocktail
Sprinkle Old Bay on a plate. Rub the rim of a small glass with the lime wedge and dip rim in Old Bay to coat. Add cracked ice to glass; set aside. In a mixing glass, combine vodka, beef broth, tomato juice, lemon juice, and black pepper; stir to combine. Pour into reserved glass; garnish with shrimp.
At the Union Square Cafe in New York City, bartenders make this bloody mary using heirloom tomatoes from the nearby farmers’ market.
2 large ripe heirloom tomatoes
2 oz. vodka
1 oz. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. freshly grated horseradish Tabasco, to taste Sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper, to taste Cherry or grape tomatoes, for garnish
Makes 1 cocktail
Push tomatoes through a potato ricer or a medium sieve into a small bowl; discard solids. Refrigerate juice until chilled. Stir in vodka, lime juice, horseradish, and Tabasco and season with salt and pepper. Fill a highball glass with ice and add tomato juice mixture. Garnish with a wooden skewer threaded with tomatoes.
The raw oysters in this bloody mary, based on one at the Boston restaurant Eastern Standard, impart a hint of brine.
4 oz. tomato juice
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1
/
8
tsp. celery salt Prepared horseradish, to taste Worcestershire, to taste Tabasco, to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste2 oz. vodka
2 freshly shucked oysters with their juice
2 green olives, for garnish Celery stalk, for garnish
Makes 1 cocktail
In a mixing glass, combine tomato juice, lemon juice, and celery salt and season with horseradish, Worcestershire, Tabasco, salt, and pepper; chill. Fill an old-fashioned glass with ice. Pour in the chilled tomato juice mixture and the vodka. Add oysters and their juice; stir. Garnish with olives and celery.
Some say the classic eye-opener known as the bloody mary was created by a bartender in Paris in 1921; others claim that same barkeep invented it at the St. Regis Hotel in Manhattan. And then there are those who believe a comedian who promoted the Smirnoff vodka company in the 1950s deserves the credit. No matter who dreamed up the combination of tomato and lemon juices, vodka, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper, the bloody mary has since become America’s favorite cocktail. The zesty concoction belongs to a group of drinks called snappers, which are defined by a savory base (like tomato juice) and the condiments that give them their character. The real beauty of a bloody mary—aside from the taste—is its versatility. There are variations all over America that speak to regional tastes and creative whims. Add a freshly shucked East Coast oyster, and the drink tastes of New England. Throw in some pickled okra, and it takes on a Southern accent. On these pages: a tried-and-true recipe for a classic bloody mary, and a few of our favorite riffs on the drink.
Artichokes
Italian-Style Stuffed Artichokes
Asparagus and Mushrooms, Matzo Brei with
Avocados
Bacon and Poached Eggs, Frisée Salad with
Banana Malted Milk Shake, Black-and-White
Beans
Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil
Beef
Filets Mignons with Mushroom Sauce
Italian-Style Meatballs with Tomato Ragù
Woody DeSilva’s Championship Chili
Black-and-White Banana Malted Milk Shake
Bok Choy and Mushrooms, Stir-Fried
Breads
Broiled Salmon Steaks with Tomatoes, Onions, and Tarragon
Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce
Burgers
customizing, ideas for
Butter
Butterscotch Sauce, Ice Cream with
Cakes
Catfish
Cheese. See also Cream cheese
Italian-Style Stuffed Artichokes
Orecchiette with Rapini and Goat Cheese
Ricotta and Roasted Pepper Frittata
The Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich
Chicken
Chicken Paprikash with Dumplings
Roasted Herbed Chicken and Vegetables
Sweet-and-Spicy Korean Fried Chicken
Chile peppers
Grilled Lobster with Cilantro-Chile Butter
Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil
Chili, Woody DeSilva’s
Chive and Cheddar
Chocolate
Black-and-White Banana Malted Milk Shake
Cilantro-Chile Butter, Grilled Lobster with
Clams
Coconut & coconut milk