In the car, I take Maya’s hand in mine. ‘So, did you have a good time?’ I rub her hand between mine.
She smiles. ‘The best!’
I think of what Radha would say if she knew where we had been. ‘But Uncle, Guruvayur! What were you doing at the temple? I didn’t think either of you was religious. You must be getting old.’
I chuckle.
‘What is so amusing?’ Maya raises her eyebrows.
‘I was thinking of Radha’s reaction when I tell her where we have been. She assumes that you and I sneaked off to some romantic place for a passionate reunion.’
‘Why would we need to go anywhere else? Your house is in the most romantic spot I have ever seen,’ Maya says, rolling down the car window.
‘For you; not for her. She has seen it all her life. But tell me, would you have preferred to go somewhere else?’
‘Of course not.’ Maya shakes her head. Then she smiles at me shyly. ‘If we had, would we be man and wife now?’
I had decided on a whim that we would go to Guruvayur. A friend called to invite me to see the swayamvara sequence from the life of Lord Krishna. ‘My brother is rather concerned that no suitable alliance has come for his daughter and someone told him that organizing a performance of the swayamvaram sequence as an offering at Guruvayur might help. I don’t know if it will, but he has money to spend, and it will be interesting to watch. Why don’t you come if you are free tonight?’
‘Would you like to go?’ I asked Maya.
‘Will it be good?’
‘Krishnattam is supposed to be kathakali’s mother. It will be interesting …’
Maya likes dance. She will never be able to discuss the finer points of a performance. That needs many years of orientation, but she is a true rasika, a worthy audience who would inspire any artist to greater heights. She is interested, she is involved, and she respects it enough to switch her mobile off, unlike many others I know. As I sat next to her, I saw pleasure animate her face. And I was glad that we had chosen to come.
When we went back to our hotel, Maya seemed bathed in elation. She couldn’t stop talking about the performance. ‘I never expected it to be so awe-inspiring,’ she said, as we prepared to go to bed.
I lay in bed, hands crossed beneath my head. Maya combed her hair as she talked.
‘The devotees believe that by watching a sequence of krishnattam you are blessed. It is an act of prayer,’ I said, enjoying the sight of her combing her hair, rubbing cream into her skin.
Maya paused. Dots of cream studded her cheeks. She smiled and said, ‘In which case, I am truly blessed. To see it, and with you by my side.’
I felt something in me turn. Her smile was suffused with such sweetness.
‘We have to wake up early if you want to see the puja at dawn. I prefer to go then, rather than later in the day. The crowds aren’t so dense and it’s peaceful. It makes me feel as though I am truly in God’s home and not in a commercial complex where God is sold,’ I said.
‘Do you have a whetting stone to sharpen your tongue every day?’ Maya shook her head.
The temple corridors were dark. The crowds melted into the shadows and I knew again that sense of serenity, as though I was alone. There was only Krishna, and I. Then I felt Maya touch my elbow. It seemed appropriate that she was here. She, too, belonged.
We could hear chants of Narayana, Narayana, the devotees’ fervour rising as the doors of the sanctum sanctorum opened and the priests raised the lamp. A fleeting glimpse of the idol’s face and Narayana, Narayana, the God’s name drummed into our ears …
Amidst such devotion, I felt humbled. Why was it I could never lay my troubles at God’s door? It occurred to me then that arrogance too is a manifestation of fear. To ask God to intervene was to accept that I was incapable of resolving my life …to accept that I was weak. Would I ever learn humility? I didn’t know.
I turned to look at Maya. Her hands were folded and her eyes were closed. What was she praying for?
Later, when we had worshipped and breakfasted and time hung on our hands, plentiful and easy, we walked back to the temple. ‘Do you want to buy some knick-knacks?’ I asked her. ‘You can buy Guruvayur pappadum, copper and bronze kitsch, pictures of various gods, devotional music, banana chips, just about anything you fancy … in addition to Guruvayurappan’s blessings.’
Maya giggled. ‘You really are wicked.’
‘No, it’s the truth,’ I said, pointing to the shops that clung to the side of the temple like burrs to a dog’s fur.
‘What are these?’ Maya asked, pointing to the raised platforms in the long corridor.
‘Marriage pandals. If we wait around here, we can see a few marriages. Would you like to?’
So we found a place to sit and waited. A procession of people arrived and another and yet another. Couples climbed on to the dais to exchange garlands. The music of the drums and the nadaswaram flowed, packing itself into the meagre spaces between people.
‘What a crowd,’ Maya marvelled. ‘How do they know who is marrying whom?’
‘I have heard of instances where the bride has garlanded the wrong groom,’ I said.
‘And?’ Maya was incredulous. ‘What do they do then?’
‘Nothing. It is accepted as divine ordination. Krishna has decided, and who are we mere mortals to question his decision, etc.’
‘Interesting!’
I looked at her face then. There was such contentment there that I wanted to grab it and make it mine. ‘Maya, do you want to get married?’ I asked.
I watched her head turn. A slow swivelling, as though she couldn’t believe what she was hearing. ‘Koman, what did you say?’
I clenched my features to not show any emotion. ‘I asked if you wanted to get married.’
She started laughing. ‘I would be committing bigamy. Remember, I am already married. So, sorry, no. I can’t marry you. Thank you for asking.’
‘This is not a joke. I am serious. Will you marry me? Who is to know that you already are?’
The more I thought about it, the better I liked the idea. To exchange garlands and be wed. No pomp, no ceremony, just the two of us and a god to witness our marriage.
‘Are you serious?’
‘I am. I really am.’
‘But why, Koman? Why now? Why do we need to be married?’ Maya placed her hand on my elbow.
‘I don’t know. Perhaps I am feeling my age. I long to belong to someone. I want to know that someone else has a stake in my life and well-being.’ For the first time, I was beginning to feel lonely. I thought of how all my energies were now concentrated on Radha. That seemed to be the role in my life. Uncle. Much as I loved her, I wanted more.
‘Oh, Koman.’ Maya’s voice was soft with sympathy. She paused and said, ‘Do you think it will cause any legal problem?’
I shook my head. I wasn’t sure, but as long as we didn’t register the wedding, what legal value did it have? I prayed that we wouldn’t meet a roving reporter from a Malayalam daily, gleaning titbits to fill column space. I remembered a news item from a couple of years ago, when an eccentric had done a thulabharam with pencils. He sat on one side of the huge iron weighing balance and the other side was heaped with boxes of pencils till both pans dangled at the same height. Anything is news these days. So why not an elderly couple marrying?
I wasn’t a celebrity, but a reporter might recognize me. Last year I had received another national award. It had meant nothing to me. The time when I needed the assurance of awards and recognition was long past, but the newspapers had made much of the occasion. For a while you couldn’t open a newspaper or a magazine without staring at my face, or reading what I preferred for breakfast, or a listing of my achievements, as they termed it.
So Maya and I married. The crowds stared. An elderly couple getting married was an anomaly.
‘Must be sweethearts who were not allowed to marry when they were young,’ I heard a voice say.
‘Poor things, at least now they’ve been able to get married.’
‘Maybe she is a widow.’
‘Their children probably don’t like the idea.’
I thought of the countless stories our marriage would spawn. The countless interpretations as to why two elderly people were exchanging garlands. Only the truth would remain unmentioned. That Maya was already married.
All they saw was a woman in a cream and gold sari and a man in a mundu with a narrow zari border and another mundu draped around like a shawl. They saw the laxity of our skin and the grey in
our hair. They saw the smoothening of vicissitudes and the played out emotions.
We became man and wife in the eyes of God and a few strangers. ‘Wife, are you happy?’ I asked her.
‘I am, husband. What about you?’ she retorted.
We smiled at each other. A conspiratorial smile. One more secret added to the secret life we began to lead ten years ago.
Malini greets us with raucous shrieks. She glares at Maya and hops towards me. ‘Any one would think I was the mistress and she the wife.’ Maya laughs.
‘She hates having to share me.’ I scratch her head. ‘What about you?’ I drop my voice.
‘You belong to me,’ she says. ‘Malini, he is mine. Do you hear me?’
We smile again at each other.
‘Do you realize they’ve been here?’ Maya asks. I nod. I saw it as soon as I walked in. How can Radha be so nonchalant about the risks she is taking?
‘I get this feeling that she is trying to put herself into a corner so she is forced to make a decision,’ Maya says, unpacking our bag. I agree, but I don’t say anything.
Chris walks in then. He leans back in his chair and yawns. ‘I wasn’t sure if you would be back. I thought I would take a chance.’
‘Do you know if Radha is coming?’ he asks.
Weren’t you together a little while ago, I want to ask. Instead, I say, ‘So how have you been? Busy?’
I reach out to switch on the fan, but there is no power.
‘Not too bad. A little bored. I keep thinking I should get out and do more touristy things.’
‘Perhaps you should,’ I say. I wish he would leave. I would like to be alone with Maya.
‘I went to Shoranur to check my mail. The Internet connection is so damn slow. I wonder if they have even heard of broadband. And then the taxi driver wanted a hundred bucks to drop me back here. I would have walked, but it is so hot.’
Chris yawns again. The fan begins turning. ‘Is the power situation always so bad here?’ he asks. ‘It keeps going off. I can’t even do any writing. How do they imagine they can turn this into a real tourist
destination if nothing works?’
‘Do you want to play a game of chess?’ I ask.
‘Do you play?’ His eyes are eager.
‘I do,’ I say. ‘Besides, it will give you something to do.’
‘I’ll come by for a game tomorrow morning,’ he says. ‘Do you think Radha will be here then?’
I feel sorry for him. He is lonely, I think.
‘I’ll call and ask her to come,’ I say. I pat his arm.
His smile is tinged with relief. And gratitude, too.
What is Radha thinking of, I wonder again. She has the boy all twisted up in knots.
‘He is beginning to feel disenchanted with his Indian experience,’ Maya says, when Chris has left.
‘I thought so, too,’ I say. ‘Well, at least his reasons so far seem genuine, but I have seen this happen again and again. So many of my students come here with such great expectations. They imagine this to be a tropical paradise where they are going to have their life-changing experience. Then familiarity sets in and what was exotic becomes lurid; what was old-fashioned is dismissed as inefficient; and what is spiritual is termed bloody laziness. I have also seen how, when they go back to the comfort of their homes and lives, these negative images lose their edge and soon they can talk about their stay in India with such enthusiasm that they inspire a fresh lot to come, seeking the meaning of life here.’
‘That is very bitter.’ Maya’s surprise at my vehemence halts me. ‘You know enough people, foreigners, to know that it isn’t true. And that you are generalizing. What about Philip? What about Anna? What about Susan? You can’t say they are like that.’
‘I know, Maya. I know it’s an injustice to generalize. I know that there are people like Philip, Anna and Susan, but there are also the others, who do exactly as I am doing now—generalize. They make sweeping judgements about us and our country and anything that counters their views is not acceptable to them. Visitors from other countries come here, look around, see the lack of amenities, and are pleased. This is the India they were expecting. Cochin is too commercial, they tell me. Why do people in Madras and Bangalore ape the west so much, they ask me. What would they like us to do?
Spin thread with charkhas, read by lantern light and drink buttermilk instead of Coke? We can’t remain in the dark ages merely because it adds to the atmosphere.