India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (179 page)
It’s lovely just aimlessly wandering through the French Quarter, but you may want to make sure your walk takes you past the
Sacred Heart of Jesus (Eglise de Sacre Coeur de Jésus),
an 18th-century neo-Gothic Catholic church on South Boulevard, as well as the facade of the
Church of Immaculate Conception
(Mission St.) which has an air of pageantry enhanced by colorful banners (note also how many Christian devotees remove their shoes before entering). But for a real air of celebration head for
Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple
, off a side street around the corner from the Ashram, and so popular that it’s cordoned off during the early evening hours; It is dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, and Lakshmi, the temple elephant, marks the entrance (see box).
For a quick glimpse of local historic memorabilia and collectibles, visit the
Pondicherry Museum
(49 Rue St. Louis;
0413/233-6203;
Tues–Sun 10am–5pm), housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion once occupied by the French administrator. The museum features a collection of carriages and carts, stone sculptures, and a formidable bronze gallery, as well as finds from nearby excavations that show that Romans traded on this coast in the 1st century
A.D.
Along the same road, which runs along the northern end of a square known as
Government Place,
is
Raj Nivas,
the late-18th-century mansion occupied by Pondicherry’s lieutenant governor.
Blessed by Lakshmi, the Elephant
Temple elephants, usually beautifully “made-up” and jangling ankle bracelets, will dispense their blessings—a tap on the top of the head with their trunk—in exchange for a rupee, dexterously picked up from the flat palm of the devotee, and immediately handed over to the mahout. It’s a charming ritual (and a real delight for kids), never better experienced than at Pondi’s Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple, where pretty Lakshmi bats her eyes and blesses the hundreds of devotees who throng around the temple daily. The fact that she’s outdoors is a boon for photographers, and her handlers are also very relaxed, allowing anyone to take photographs of Lakshmi (though the crowds can make for a tricky shot).
At twilight, head for
Goubert Salai
(Beach Rd.). The most interesting sights along the promenade (aside from the locals enjoying themselves) include the colonial
Hôtel de Ville
(now the Municipal Offices building), the round Douane (Customs) House, and
the 4m (13-ft.) statue of Gandhi standing at the pier. If you’re here for a few nights, it’s also worth looking into the cultural events, art exhibitions, and film screenings conducted regularly by Pondicherry’s
Alliance Française
(0413/233-8146;
fax 0413/233-4351; [email protected]; Mon–Fri 8:30am–12:30pm and 2:30–6pm.
Aurobindo Ashram
Located in the French heart of Pondicherry, just off Goubert Ave, Aurobindo Ashram draws a global mix of ardent devotees and ordinary people searching for peace; there are no compulsory meditation or rituals, simply learning to surrender to the divine principle and being open to the divine force. Sri Aurobindo, a politically active British-educated Bengali who sought asylum from the British in this small French enclave, took to meditation and yoga while developing theories of enlightenment that integrated his personal spirituality with the tenets of modern science. He met Mirra Alfassa, a Paris-born artist on a similar spiritual quest, in 1914; she became his soul mate, and her ministrations earned her the appellation “The Mother.” Founded as a place to foster evolution to a higher level of spiritual consciousness, the ashram opened in 1926. With a significant following and numerous published titles to his credit, Aurobindo finally left the running of the ashram to Mirra, retreating into solitary confinement for 24 years before finally passing away in 1950; The Mother followed in 1973. Today, those who share their vision of a better world come to pray and meditate aside the memorial chambers
(samadhis)
of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother, which lie in the center of the incredibly peaceful main courtyard. It’s a very humble place, not like the huge or ancient temples typical of Tamil, but the atmosphere is sacred. Within the house (where the couple once lived) you will find the wise elders of the ashram, who are available for questions—if you have any burning spiritual issues, this is the place to air them; the answers you will receive will inspire. (Don’t forget to visit Lakshmi at nearby Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple afterwards.)
Rue de la Marine.0413/223-3649.
www.sriaurobindosociety.org.in
Free admission; no children under 3. Daily 6am–noon and 2–6:30pm.
The City of Dawn: Sixties Sci-Fi in the 21st Century
Conceived in 1964 by Sri Aurobindo’s French-born disciple, Mirra Alfassa (“The Mother”; see “What to See & Do: Aurobindo Ashram”), the experimental “universal town” of
Auroville
(literally “City of Dawn”)
was founded on a tract of land some 8km (5 miles) north of Pondi. It was based on Mirra’s vision of a place that could not be claimed or owned by any nation or creed, where people who aspire to “a higher and truer life” could live freely and in peace, devoted to the practice and discovery of Divine Consciousness—a city that would ultimately become a living embodiment of the essential human unity. Largely designed by French architect Roger Anger,
Auroville
drew a group of citizens from all corners of the globe and was inaugurated in 1968, when soils from around the world (128 nations and Indian states) were symbolically placed as a gesture of Universal Understanding in an urn along with the Auroville Charter. Today it is still home to a suitably diverse population, and understandably somewhat insular; some have been here from its inception, but many more continue to arrive over the years, making this the most interesting, globally representative community in India, and effectively its only privately owned “suburb,” built almost entirely on the hippie principles typical of the ’60s.
At its spiritual and physical heart is the huge futuristic spherical structure spanning 36m (118 ft.) in diameter and known as
Matrimandir,
or Mother’s temple, a symbolic space devoted to the “divine creatrix.” Covered in glistening gold discs fixed to the outer surface of the dome, it looks like a faux UFO from a 1960s sci-fi film set. The inner marble chamber houses 12 meditation “petals” (each concerning attitudes towards the Divine and humanity worth striving for, such as sincerity, humility, gratitude, courage, generosity, and peace). At the center is a huge man-made crystal (said to be the largest in the world) that reflects the sun’s rays and produces a concentrated light to enhance meditation. Visitors wishing to enter the Matramandir must make an appointment after visiting the Garden and 2 days in advance (
call 2-4pm).