India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (122 page)
Emergencies
For
police emergencies
, dial100;
to report a crime, call
Hospitals
There are more than 500 hospitals and clinics in Kochi, some specializing in particular ailments, and a number of them highly respected. If you have a medical emergency, your hotel should be able to organize the best medical match; alternatively, call
Medical Trust Hospital
(
) or
General Hospital
(
).
Internet Access
Just about all the hotels offer some kind of internet access. Fort Kochi also has plenty of Internet “cafes” (back rooms behind shops). These generally charge more than any of the options in Ernakulam.
Call’n’Fax/Shop’n’Save
(Princess St.;
Mon–Sat 8am–10pm, Sun 9am–10pm) charges Rs 40 per hour.
Post Office
Use the
General Post Office
in Mattancherry (
) or the Kochi Head Post Office in Fort Kochi (behind St. Francis Church).
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Lazy and laid-back,
Fort Kochi
offers a tranquillity that is in complete contrast to the heaving city experience of Ernakulam. Along with
Mattancherry
and
Jew Town,
Fort Kochi forms the historic heart (also known as
Old Kochi
) of the city—it is, after all, a town where 14 different languages are spoken, and tumbled-down mansions line narrow ancient lanes. Near the water’s edge, old warehouses (or
godowns
) are filled with the state’s treasured cash crops—pepper, tea, Ayurvedic herbs, whole ginger, and betel nuts—being dried, sorted, and prepared for direct sale or auction. The area is wonderful for historic walks, particularly into Jew Town, which hosts the remains of a community that dates back to the 1st century
A.D.
, augmented during the 16th century when the Inquisition brought a fresh wave of Jewish immigrants here. Today only a small handful of aging “white Jewish” families remain in Kochi, but their residential quarter retains a charming ambience, with cobbled streets and fascinating antiques shops and spice markets.
Man-made
Willingdon Island,
a short ferry ride or bridge journey away, was created in the 20th century by large-scale dredging. There is a good hotel here, but the island is primarily concerned with naval and commercial port activity and is not worth visiting unless you’re based here.
Bolgatty Island,
reached by ferry, is of no interest other than the rather lovely heritage “palace” on its shores, which has been converted into a poorly managed state-government hotel.
Exploring Old Kochi
Start your 2-hour walking tour at the harbor near Vasco da Gama Square, where you can watch fishermen hoisting their catch from the cantilevered
Chinese fishing nets
that line the shore, then head along Church Road to
St.
Francis Church
(see below). Keep going toward Parade Road (where you’ll see the Malabar House Residency; see “Where to Stay,” below). Turn right into Parade Road then left along Dutch Cemetery Road, passing
Thakur House
and the
cemetery
on your right, as well as the remains of the 16th-century
Fort Immanuel.
Just after this you will turn north (left) up Elephinstone Road, making a left onto Ridsdale Road. After popping into Cinnamon (see “Shopping,” later) and perhaps watching the boys and men playing cricket on the
Parade Ground
park opposite the store, turn right into Bastion Street and drift in the direction of
Santa Cruz Basilica
(see below).
If you’re ready to take a break, turn right before this into
Peter Celli Street,
where you can’t miss the lovely
Tea Pot
(see “Where to Dine,” later); service is excruciatingly slow but the ambience is lovely. Or take the next street left into Burgher and stop at
Kashi Art Café
(see later), where the contemporary art and vibrant atmosphere provide a contrast to the historic surroundings.
When you’re ready, head toward Tower Road, where you will find the lovely red-brick
Koder House,
not far from where you started your tour. Built in 1808 by Jewish patriarch Samuel Koder, Koder House is a good example of the hybrid Indo-European style that developed in Cochin. It’s also an example of an overpriced guesthouse (see “Where to Stay,” below), so if you want to appreciate the interiors, ask to see a room—they’re quite popular, however, so you may have to settle on taking a drink in the lovely upstairs lounge (while there, snoop a bit and see if you can spot the overhead bridge that links this hotel to the one behind—this was formerly one large property). Next door to Koder House, the
Old Harbour Hotel
has made a more successful, dynamic transition to hospitality (see “Where to Stay,” below), and you’d do well to book dinner at the in-house restaurant,
1788
(see “Where to Dine,” later), where you should pause immediately for a cooling glass of organic carrot and gooseberry juice. Beyond is the
Pierce Leslie Bungalow,
a charming 19th-century mansion reflecting both Portuguese and Dutch influences.
While in the vicinity of the fishing nets, you might want to wander along the harbor’s edge for a while (this stretch is very popular at sunset), watching fishermen sell their catch. When you’ve had enough, catch an auto-rickshaw to Mattancherry, where you should visit the
Mattancherry (Dutch) Palace
and
Paradesi Synagogue
(see below) before discovering the fragrant scents of Kerala’s
spice warehouses.
Make time to visit a few of the antiques warehouses, and don’t be put off by the layers of dust—there are some real treasures to be found. End your day full circle with a
sunset cruise
around the harbor; this is the best way to enjoy the most-photographed of Kochi’s historic sights: the Chinese fishing nets that form wonderful silhouettes against a red- and orange-hued sky.