India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (107 page)

BOOK: India (Frommer's, 4th Edition)

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Baga Beach, Santo Vaddo, Calangute.
0832/227-7331
or -7629. Main courses Rs 80–Rs 270. MC. Daily 9am–11:30pm. Closed June 20–Aug 7.

Copper Bowl
GOAN/SEAFOOD It’s not just the sensational seafood that makes dining here so pleasurable, it’s the wonderful setting—intimate and lush and seemingly hidden from the world in a peaceable garden kingdom. Served from copper pots, the Goan curry dishes are exquisite; try coconut-based chicken
xacuti
(pronounced cha-
coo-
ty) or fragrant prawn
balchao,
a mouthwatering combination of crispy prawns, aromatic spices, chili, onion, and prawn powder. If your taste leans more toward nonspicy, try the seafood in coconut-milk soup, followed by the “Seafood Treasure”—baby lobster, prawns, and two kinds of fish served in a banana leaf. There’s a formidable menu, but nothing will be served unless it’s fresh.

Pousada Tauma, Porba Vaddo, Calangute.
0832/227-9061.
Reservations essential for nonresidents. Main courses Rs 300–Rs 700, lobster/tiger prawns Rs 1,000–Rs 1,400. MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10:15pm.

Fiesta
ITALIAN A bit of an oasis off Baga-Calangute’s bar-lined main drag, this is one of Goa’s more romantic restaurants, set in a lovely beachfront garden and run by an energetic couple named Yellow and Maneck Contractor. It’s worth coming even if just for the magical ambience (and excellent thin-crust pizzas, fresh pastas, but slow service) or a pick from their legendary dessert menu.

7/35 Saunta Vaddo, Tito’s Lane, Baga.
0832/227-9894
or 0832/228-1440.
www.fiestagoa.com
.
Main courses Rs 150–Rs 450. MC, V. Daily 7pm–midnight. Closed May–Sept.

Florentines
GOAN The great thing about this place, despite the plastic chairs and typically thrown-together ambience, is that you get to dine with locals, apparently untrammeled by tourism. For more than 25 years, Florence da Costa’s heaving chicken joint has been pulling in a crowd. Here, far from the well-trodden tourist beat (although, if you look foreign—or, better still, if you book a table—you seem to get preferential treatment), you’ll witness well-to-do Goan families fighting over who gets to pay the bill, while dozens more wait expectantly for a table. The chicken is legendary. It’s prepared in a variety of ways—the chicken
cafreal
is popular, but you can go for chicken
xacuti
or chicken
vindaloo,
too. Tables inside benefit from overhead fans, but the covered terrace outside is a better bet; expect zero frills, no music (just the progressively louder din from scores of happy diners), and food to be slumped onto the table. The chicken is served with soft Portuguese-style rolls and comes with a knife and fork, but you really should follow the example of fellow guests and use your fingers. Everyone here looks like they’re drinking soft drinks, but look carefully and you’ll see that those are mixers for generous measures of
feni,
the potent locally brewed liquor.

Chogm Rd., Saligao, Bardez.
0832/227-8122
or -8249. Main courses Rs 40–Rs 80. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 11:30am–3pm and 6:30–10:45pm.

Ku
PAN-ASIAN Owned and run by Marie and Chris, a Spanish-French couple, this Zen-themed place focuses on sushi and Vietnamese dishes. There is no menu—rather listen to the brief list of daily offerings suggested by lovely Maria; she’ll be working with whatever she’s managed to source from the market today. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to sample her sugar-cane prawns, delicious spring rolls, and the Thai soups are lovely too. It’s a two-level restaurant made from wood and bamboo—there’s a water fountain stocked with fish and some plants, but the pleasure here is being surrounded by green open space (which you can appreciate since the place is open for lunch only).
Note:
Like many of the better eateries in Goa, Ku is very difficult to find and there aren’t any signs to speak of, so ask, and carry a mobile phone so you can call if you really get stuck.