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French Provincial Cooking (114 page)

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À l’Infortune du Pot.
La Meilleure Cuisine en 300 Recettes Simples et d’Actualité.
Curnonsky, Prince élu des Gastronomes. Éditions de la Couronne, Paris, 1946.
L’Utilisation des Fruits
. Henriette Babet-Charton. La Maison Rustique, 26 rue Jacob, Paris. 4th edition, 1947.
La Bonne Cuisine Méridionale de Tante Gracieuse. De Bordeaux à Menton.
Les Éditions Provencia, Service des Ventes, Librairie du Petit Marseillais, 18 Place d’Armes, Toulon, 1947.
Histoire de l’Alimentation et de la Gastronomie depuis la Préhistoire jusqu’ à nos Jours
, 2 vols. Dr. Alfred Gottschalk, Paris, Éditions Hippocrate, Le François, 91 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 1948. A very fine and fairly detailed history of nutrition and cookery, chiefly that of France.
Cuisine Française et Africaine.
Léon Isnard. Éditions Albin Michel, Paris, 22 rue Huyghens, 1949.
La Table et l’Amour. Nouveau Traité des Excitants Modernes.
Curnonsky et André Saint-Georges. La Clé d’Or, Paris, 1950.
Vieux Pots, Saulces et Rosts Memorables. Essai Historique et Meilleures Recettes de la Cuisine Française.
Charles Gay, Tours, Arrault et Cie, 1950. A rather pompous and tiresome book but well printed and sumptuously produced, with an interesting collection of illustrations.
Le Guide de la Charcuterie. Aide-Mémoire de Charcuterie Pratique.
P. E. Laloue, 1954. En vente au Guide de la Charcuterie, 191 rue de l’Ermitage Montreuil-sous-Bois (Seine). First published 1950.
Gastronomie Bourbonnaise
. Roger Lallemand, Gannat, 1951.
Recettes et Paysages:
(1)
Sud-Ouest et Pyrenées,
1950. (2)
Sud-Est, Mediterranée,
1951. (3)
Île de France
,
Val de Loire
, 1951. (4)
L’Est
de
la France, Champagne
,
Alsace
,
Lorraine
,
Bourgogne, Franche-Comté, Bresse,
1952. (5)
Nord, Bretagne
,
Normandie, Pays de l’
Ouest,
1952. Paris, Publications Françaises, 13 rue de Grenelle. The recipes in these collections are mainly taken from other books, but the colour-photographs of food and cooked dishes are of unique quality.
La Véritable Cuisine Provençale
et
Niçoise.
Jean-Noel Escudier. Éditions Gallia-Toulon, 1953.
Le Plus Doux des Péchés.
Robert J. Courtine. Bourg. Éditions Touristiques et Littéraires, 1954.
L’Aventure est dans votre cuisine
. Marie-Paule Pomaret et Hélène Cingria. Éditions Pierre Horay, 22B Passage Dauphine, Paris VI, 1954.
La Charcuterie à la Campagne
. Henriette Babet-Charton. La Maison Rustique, 26 rue Jacob, Paris; 6th edition, 1954.
La Cuisine, de Chez Nous:
(1)
Le Bourbonnais.
(2)
Le Nivernais-Morvan
. Roger Lallemand. Imprimerie Régionale R. Gentil, Gannat (Allier), 1954, 1955.
Un Gastronome se Penche sur son Passé.
Simon Arbellot, Paris, Éditions Colombier, 1955.
Les Sauces. Recettes et Conseils Pratiques.
Collection Cuisine et Vins de France. Compagnie Parisienne d’Éditions techniques et commerciales, 94 Faubourg St. Honoré, 1957.
Manuel des Poissonniers
. Édité par le Comité National Pour La Consommation du Poisson, 11 rue Anatole de la Forge, Paris, 1957.
ENGLISH TRANSLATIONS OF FRENCH COOKERY AND OTHER BOOKS
The French Family Cook
.
Being a complete system of French Cookery
. Translated from the French. London. Printed for J. Bell, 148 Oxford Street, nearly opposite New Bond Street, 1793.
A Guide to Modern Cookery
. G. A. Escoffier, with an introduction by Eugène Herbodeau. Heinemann, 1957. First published 1907. This translation of the
Guide Culinaire
is rather stilted and occasionally lapses into absurdity. All the same, and in spite of the fact that many of the recipes are now out of date, it remains a most valuable book of reference and, incidentally, provides some details of the eating habits of the time which, to us, already seem almost archaic. But, as Herbodeau very rightly says in his preface, ‘There is a much greater difference between the recipes of Carême and those of Escoffier than between Escoffier’s original recipes and our modern, less rich, adaptations.’
Clarisse, or The Old Cook
. Translated from the French by Elise Vallée, with a preface by A. B. Walkley. London, Methuen & Co., 1926.
The New French Cooking
. Paul Reboux. Translated by Elizabeth Lucas. Thornton Butterworth, 1927. Re-issued under the title
Food for the Rich,
by Blond, 1958.
French Cooking for Everywoman
. Marcellys. Translated from
Les Recettes de Grandmère.
London, Country Life Ltd., 20 Tavistock Street, W.C.2, 1930.
L’Art Culinaire
. Henri Pellaprat. First English translation
circa
1930.
Good Fare: A Code of Cookery
. Édouard de Pomiane. Translated by Blanche Bowes and edited by Doris Langley Moore, from
Le Code de la Bonne Chère.
Gerald Howe Ltd., 23 Soho Square, W.1, 1932.
Letters from Madame de Sévigné.
Selected and translated by Violet Hammersley. London, Secker & Warburg, 1955. The letters in this edition run from 1648 to 1695.
Cooking in 10 Minutes: or the Adaptation
to
the Rhythm of our Time
. Édouard de Pomiane. Translated by Peggie Benton. Bruno Cassirer, Oxford, 1948. Reprinted 1956.
Close to Colette.
Maurice Goudeket, Seeker & Warburg, 1956.
Fine Bouche: A History of the Restaurant in France
. Pierre Andrieu. Translated from the French by Arthur L. Haywood. London, Cassell, 1956.
ENGLISH PUBLICATIONS REFERRED TO IN THE TEXT
The Modern Cook.
By Mr. Vincent La Chapelle, Chief Cook to the Right Honourable The Earl of Chesterfield. London. Printed for the author and sold by Nicholas Prevost, at the Ship over-against Southampton Street, in the Strand. 3 vols. 1733. Dedicated to the Earl of Chesterfield. La Chapelle was subsequently Chef de Cuisine to the Prince of Orange and Nassau. His book was translated into French and published at The Hague in 1735 under the title
Le Cuisinier Moderne.
This version was dedicated to the Prince of Orange.
The Cook’s Paradise, being William Verral’s ‛Complete System of Cookery’.
Published in 1759. Reprint, with Thomas Gray’s cookery notes in holograph, and Introduction and Appendices by R. L. Mégroz. London, 1948. The Sylvan Press, 24 Museum Street, W.C.1.
The Cook’s Oracle
. William Kitchiner, M.D. A new edition, London, 1829. Printed for Cadell & Co., Edinburgh; Simpkin & Marshall, and G. B. Whittaker, London; and John Cumming, Dublin. The preface to the 7th edition of this book is dated 1823.
The French Cook
.
A system of Fashionable and Economical Cookery for the Use of English Families
. Louis Eustache Ude. Ci-devant cook to Louis XVI and the Earl of Sefton, and late steward to His Royal Highness the Duke of York. Ninth edition, enlarged. London, W. H. Ainsworth, 23 Old Bond Street, 1827.
Modern Cookery
. Eliza Acton. Longmans, Green, 1855 edition. First published 1845. An important landmark in the history of English cookery books. Miss Acton seems to have been the first English author, preceding Mrs. Beeton by some fifteen years, to give minute detail and meticulous directions as regards quantities and timing in her recipes. She had also made a study of French cookery in France as well as making use of the instruction she received from French chefs in England. The book contains a number of authentic and interesting French recipes. It was much plagiarised by subsequent cookery writers, including Isabella Beeton. This ruthless, unacknowledged pillaging of her work was much resented by Miss Acton, as indeed it is by all authors who have experienced the same treatment, including Escoffier, who refers to it in the preface of
Le Guide Culinaire.
A Ramble Through Normandy or Scenes, Characters and Incidents in a Sketching Excursion through Calvados
. George M. Musgrave, M.A., London, David Bogue, Fleet Street, 1855.
Beeton’s Book of Household Management
. Edited by Mrs. Isabella Beeton, London, S. O. Beeton, 248 Strand, W.C.2, 1861.
Edible Mollusks of Great Britain and Ireland,
with
recipes for cooking them
. M. S. Lovell, London, Reeve & Co., 1867.
The Book of Household Management.
Mrs. Isabella Beeton. Entirely new edition. Revised, corrected, and greatly enlarged. Ward, Lock & Co., 1899.
A Little Tour in France
. Henry James, London, William Heinemann, 1900.
Simple French Cooking for English Homes
. Marcel Boulestin, London, William Heinemann, 1933. First published 1923.
A Second Helping or More Dishes for English Homes
. Marcel Boulestin, London, William Heinemann, 1925.
Birds and Beasts of the Greek Anthology.
Norman Douglas. Chapman & Hall, 1928.
Journal
,
1929
. Arnold Bennett. London, Cassell & Co. Ltd., 1930.
French Dishes for English Tables: Soups and Potages
,
Hors-d’œuvre, Salads
. J. Berjane (Comtesse de—), London, Frederick Warne & Co. Ltd., 1931.
What Shall we have Today?
Marcel Boulestin, London. First published 1931; William Heinemann, 1937, 2nd edition.
Having Crossed the Channel.
Marcel Boulestin. William Heinemann, 1934.
Myself, My Two Countries
. X. M. Boulestin. London, Cassell, 1936.
The Finer Cooking or Dishes for Parties
. Marcel Boulestin, London, Cassell & Co., 1937.
Madame Bégué’s Recipes of Old New Orleans Creole Cookery
. Harmanson, 333 Royal Street, New Orleans. 2nd Edition, 1937.
Provence.
Ford Madox Ford, London, George Allen & Unwin Ltd., 1938.
Return to Normandy.
Vivian Rowe. Evans Bros., 1951.
The Sudden View. A Mexican Journey
. Sybille Bedford, London, Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1953. Re-issued as
A Visit to Don Otavio,
Collins, 1960.
Alsace and its Wine Gardens
. S. F. Hallgarten, London, André Deutsch, 1957.
By Request. An Autobiography
. André L. Simon. The Wine & Food Society, 1957.
PERIODICALS
La Cuisine des Familles. Recueil Hebdomadaire de Recettes d’Actualité très clairement expliquées, très faciles à exécuter.
Rédactrice en chef, Madame Jeanne Savarin, June 1905-June 1907. A number of the most distinguished chefs and gastronomes of the day contributed to this remarkable magazine, which cost 5 centimes a copy.
Le Carnet d’Épicure. Revue illustrée des Arts de la Table Littéraire, Philosophique et Gourmande, with English Translations of Escoffier’s New Recipes
. Editor-in-Chief, Th. Gringoire, 24 Johnson Street, Westminster. Monthly publication directed at professional chefs, restaurateurs and hôteliers. 1912-1914. Most of the well-known French chefs of the day, the majority of them working in England, contributed to this magazine, in the publication of which Escoffier was the leading spirit. It was 9d. a copy in England and Fr. 1.25 in France.
Les Feuillets Occitans. La Gastronomie Méridionale.
Special number of this monthly publication devoted to the local cookery of the Languedoc, the Roussillon and the Pays d’Oc. Edited by Prosper Montagné, 1927.
La Table. Le Magazine de la Gastronomie Française.
(1) Hiver 1931-1932. (2) Numéro 2. A sumptuous quarterly publication of which the Editor-in-Chief was Gaston Derys and Curnonsky the Literary Director. During its short life every distinguished gastronome in France appears to have contributed to this magazine. The price was Fr. 15.
The Wine and Food Society Quarterly
, Edited by André L. Simon, President of the Wine and Food Society, 1934-59.
La France à Table
.
Gastronomie et Tourisme
. A magazine founded in 1934 by Curnonsky and the publisher Praget; it appeared every two months. Publication was suspended during the 1939-1945 war and resumed in 1949. Each number deals with tourism and regional cookery in one particular province of France. 11 rue Quentin-Bauchart, Paris 8
e
.
Cuisine et Vins de France.
Monthly magazine founded by Curnonsky. January 1950-1959. 94 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (Place Beauvau), Paris 8
e
.
GUIDES
Guide Michelin.
Yearly publication. Pneu Michelin, Services de Tourisme, 79 Boulevard Péreire, Paris 17.
Guide des Touristes Gastronomes. Réalisé sous la direction de Simon Arbellot, de l’Académie des Gastronomes
. Kléber-Colombes. Yearly publication. Éditions Taride, 154 Boulevard St. Germain, Paris VI
e
.
The Gourmet’s Guide to Europe
. Lieut.-Colonel Newnham-Davis and Algernon Bastard. Edited by the former; London, Grant Richards, 1903. This famous book by a celebrated gourmet of the day (Col. Newnham-Davis was a regular contributor on gastronomic subjects to the
Pall Mall
magazine) includes a chapter on eating in French provincial towns.
La France Gastronomique. Guide des merveilles culinaires et des bonnes auberges Françaises.
Curnonsky et Marcel Rouff, Paris, F. Rouff, Éditeur, 148 Rue de Vaugirard.
L’Alsace.
1921.
L’Anĵou.
1921.
Le Béarn.
1922.
Bordeaux
,
Le
Bordelais el Les Landes.
1924
La Bourgogne.
1923.
La Bretagne
. 1923.
Le Périgord.
1923.
La Provence.
1923.
La Savoie.
1923.
La Touraine
. 1922.
The Yellow Guides for Epicures. Paris. The Environs of Paris and Normandy
. Curnonsky and Marcel Rouff. Thornton Butterworth Ltd., 15 Bedford Street, London, W.C.2, 1926.
BOOK: French Provincial Cooking
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