Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (10 page)

PHOTO AGING
is sun damage.

RETINOIDS
(Retin-A, retinal, Renova) are powerful vitamin A derivatives used to fight acne and help build collagen to reverse visible signs of aging. The drug is effective in reducing fine lines around the eyes and mouth, not deep wrinkles. Inflammation and peeling are common side effects from use, which can last from two weeks to months. Because the drug makes skin more sensitive to the sun, use of a sunscreen is essential. Pregnant women and those planning a pregnancy should avoid this drug, since it is not known how much Retin-A is absorbed through the skin, and high doses of vitamin A can cause birth defects. Natural sources of retinoids include yams, tomatoes, fish-liver oils, melon, squash, and leafy green vegetables.

SERUMS
are concentrated, corrective skin treatments that are packed with highly effective active ingredients that address specific skin concerns like dullness and uneven skin tone. Ingredients commonly found in serums include vitamin C, green tea extract, and white birch extract. For best results, serums should be applied after cleansing, before moisturizer.

SPF
(sun protection factor) measures the degree of protection a product provides against the sun’s UVB rays. The formula used divides the minutes it takes to burn wearing a thick application of the product by the minutes the same person takes to burn without any sunscreen. There is no current rating system for UVA protection.

SQUALENE
(natural, unsaturated) is derived from shark-liver oil. It is very emollient and has some germicidal benefits.

TYROSINASE INHIBITORS
(kojic acid, hydroquinone)all prevent browning or age spots on the skin. Licorice (
glycyrrhiza glabrd
) has been used for centuries to lighten and brighten skin.

VITAMIN B3
(niacinamide) is a water soluble vitamin found in yeast, eggs, liver, and vegetables that helps increase the amount of fatty acids in the skin, promoting exfoliation and firmness.

VITAMIN C
(ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone. It protects the skin from atmospheric pollution and from ultraviolet light. Vitamin C also helps convert inactivated vitamin E back to the active, antioxidant form of vitamin E. Vitamin C is involved in the formation of elastin and plays a role in converting proline, an amino acid, into collagen. Vitamin C increases collagen manufacture, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The production of melanin is an oxidative process that causes pigmentation. As an antioxidant, vitamin C counteracts the oxidative process. High doses of vitamin C reduce the pigmentation of scars and make them less noticeable. Vitamin C is found in fresh fruits and vegetables.

VITAMIN E
(tocopherol) provides antioxidant protection. All the cells in the body contain fatty acids that need protection against oxidation, which causes disease and symptoms of aging. Vitamin E protects the fatty acids (oils) against oxidation and rancidity. Vitamin E has been shown to act as a mild sunscreen, with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 3.

VITAMIN K
helps to reduce ruddiness and promotes faster healing of bruising, swelling, and skin irritation.

Chapter 4

FACE

The basics—
under-eye concealer, foundation, and powder
—are the secret to a great look. If the basics aren’t right, the makeup won’t be either.

PREPARING THE FACE FOR MAKEUP

Begin with these steps before applying any makeup.

Analyze the type and condition
of the skin. This will determine the combination of skincare and makeup formulas to use. The condition of your skin changes each day, so make an assessment each morning.

Decide which products will improve
the skin’s current condition. That includes determining what weight moisturizer(s) are appropriate and whether an oil-controlling gel, a skin-soothing lotion, or a combination of skincare products is needed. Understanding how various ingredients work and the range of options available to you is important.

Choose the right foundation formula
for the skin type and condition. Options include stick foundation, lightweight tinted moisturizer, denser tinted balm, fuller-coverage liquid foundation, powder, and oil-free formulas.

Select the correct foundation shade
for the skin tone. It is important to select the foundation shade first.

Select an under-eye concealer
one to two tones lighter than the foundation, and determine if a corrector is needed.

Select the perfect shades of powder
to ensure that makeup stays fresh looking and lasts for hours. Choose a lighter powder to set concealer and that will double as an eye primer, and a deeper shade that works with the foundation tone. Test the color of the powder on the skin after applying foundation.

CONCEALERS & CORRECTORS

Correctors brighten the darkest areas under your eyes, allowing concealers to both lighten and blend. Concealers should blend into your skin, lightening dark circles and instantly making you look better.

Concealers are the secret of the universe.

While concealers are available that cover tattoos, spots, blemishes, scars, redness, and bruises, most people use a concealer to lighten dark circles under the eyes. Different concealers and correctors are formulated for each specific use. Pick a concealer and, when needed, a corrector designed for each of your problem areas. Under-eye concealers are not formulated for use on blemishes or areas of redness. They are creamier in consistency and lighter than the skin tone. Using under-eye concealer on areas of redness will only highlight the imperfections. Yellow-toned foundation that matches the skin tone is the best way to adequately cover blemishes, scars, and tattoos.

The application of under-eye concealer is the most important step in any makeup routine. Concealer is the one product that, when chosen and applied correctly, can instantly lift and brighten the face. Choose a color one to two shades lighter than the foundation. The skin under the eye is very thin, so the blue of the fine veins just under the surface tend to show through. A light yellow-toned concealer masks this blue discoloration and brightens the skin. For those with alabaster skin, a porcelain-toned concealer will work. Sometimes a stick foundation one or two shades lighter than the face can serve as an under-eye concealer for those who need very little coverage.

Correctors are available for extreme under-eye darkness. When a regular concealer cannot fully lighten the under-eye area, a peach or pink corrector is used to counter the purple or green tone. A regular yellow-toned concealer is usually lightly layered over the corrector to lighten the under-eye area. Occasionally, those with extremely deep purple or green coloration under the eye will not need the layer of regular concealer.

Tips

Some women need between two and four colors that can be mixed and blended to accommodate changes in skin tone under the eye, which can vary with the time of day, amount of rest, and hormones.

Sometimes a corrector is enough to solve the under-eye problem. Rules should be followed, but there should be flexibility for what works where. Sometimes something as bold as a bright pink or peach cream blush will work for very intense darkness.

CHOOSING CORRECTOR COLOR

Correctors are for extreme under-eye darkness. If your skin is pale, choose the lightest colors, beginning with bisque or light pink. For deeper skin tones, choose peach or darker peach.

Pink