Beard on Bread (7 page)

Punch the dough down again and let rest for 2 or 3 minutes on the floured board, then shape into an oval, round, or oblong loaf and place on an ungreased sheet coated with cornmeal. Let rise in a warm, draft-free
place until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours—don’t worry if it’s slow. (If the dough seems to have spread a lot, resist the temptation to reshape it; it will make a good loaf anyway.) Preheat the oven to 425°, and set a pan of boiling water on the lower rack. Brush the loaf with cold water and slash about ½ inch deep in several places with a razor blade or a very sharp knife. Let rest at room temperature for about 5 more minutes, then place the baking sheet in the oven, on the upper rack. Immediately lower the temperature to 375°, bake for 20 minutes, then brush again with cold water. Continue to bake for 40 to 50 minutes longer, until the bread is a delicious-looking dark color and makes a hollow sound when tapped on top and bottom. Cool thoroughly before slicing.

This was a mistake that proved to be extremely interesting. I was testing another version of the free-form loaf, the recipe for which appears below, turned the oven to 375° without my glasses on, and placed the loaf in the oven. I thought it was browning magnificently and then discovered I had turned the oven to “broil.” I immediately switched to “bake,” but by this time I had a beautifully brown, crisp top crust and the loaf had risen. In the end the loaf tasted absolutely wonderful, and the upper crust was superb. The next time I reversed the procedure and let it bake first and then broil, and this loaf came out very well too. I thought I would record my experience here as a novelty—and to make the point that baking bread is always an adventure.

[1 free-form loaf]

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and let it proof. Measure the flour into a mixing bowl, add the salt, and blend well. Add the yeast and blend thoroughly, preferably with your hands. Add the oil, and then, gradually, the buttermilk. Mix with the hands or in an electric mixer with a dough hook until the dough comes off the bowl. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead for 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and resilient. Remove to a buttered bowl and turn to coat the surface with butter. Cover and let rise until doubled in bulk.

Punch the dough down, knead for 3 minutes, and let rise once more. Punch down again, then, using both hands, gather the dough into a big circular package, draw the top together to close it, and pinch the ends
together. Turn the dough over, and set it, pinched-end side down, on a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal, and let rise until doubled in bulk. (Cornmeal may be sprinkled on the top, too, for an extra accent.) Slash the top in three places and brush with the egg wash. Broil at 375° for 20 minutes, then switch to “bake” for 25 minutes, or until the loaf sounds hollow when tapped with the knuckles. (If your broiler has no setting, place the bread as far as possible from the unit and watch carefully. You may have to switch from “broil” to “bake” more quickly.) Remove the loaf from the baking sheet and let it rest directly on the oven rack for a few minutes to brown the bottom. Cool on a rack.

Made with hard-wheat flour, this loaf is light, chewy, and extremely well crusted. It is a delicious bread for sandwiches or for toast, and it stores nicely if refrigerated in a plastic bag or frozen. The dough can also be baked as small rolls (see
forming instructions
).

[1 loaf]

Combine the yeast, sugar, and water and allow to proof. Mix the flour, salt, melted butter, and buttermilk together, work into a smooth dough, and then add the yeast mixture. Beat well for 2 minutes, then remove to a well-floured board and knead for approximately 10 minutes, until the dough is supple, smooth, and satiny. (The dough can also be prepared in an electric mixer equipped with a dough hook. Combine all the ingredients, knead with the dough hook for approximately 5 to 6 minutes, and then remove the dough to a floured board for about 2 minutes of kneading by hand.) Place the dough in a buttered bowl and turn to coat the dough with butter. Cover and set in a warm spot to rise until more than doubled in bulk. Punch down the dough, remove to a floured board, and knead for two minutes. Form into a loaf about 9 × 5 inches by patting flat to a rather rough rectangle, folding in the ends, and then folding in the sides. Pinch the seams together well. Put in a buttered 9 × 5 × 3-inch bread pan, cover, and place in a warm, draft-free spot to rise until more than doubled in bulk. Bake in the center of a preheated 375° oven for about 40 minutes. For rolls, bake at 375° for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from the pan, and bake for another 5 to 8 minutes on its side to give a crisp brown crust. Cool on a rack before slicing.

Carl Gohs is a fellow Oregonian who has done much research on early foods, as well as on pioneer and Indian cooking. His bread is quite a lot of trouble to make, but it has interesting flavour, because of the wheat germ, and the texture is also extremely good. The intriguing thing about this recipe is that the final dough is twisted to make it denser, which results in a fine grain. It is a beautiful bread that keeps well, whether stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator or frozen, and it ships nicely too. (It was flown from coast to coast when I first tasted it.) It’s fun to make a big batch and save some, or give it to friends.

[2 loaves]

In a 2-quart or medium-large mixing bowl, dissolve yeast in the ½ cup lukewarm water, add the brown sugar, stir, and set aside for 15 to 20 minutes, until it works and froths, acquiring about a 2-inch “head.” Stir in ½ cup flour and continue to stir until smooth. Set this “sponge” aside to work, covered with a cloth, for about an hour. Stir it down each time it doubles in bulk.

Meanwhile, cut the washed, unpeeled potato in several pieces and boil in about 1½ cups water until tender. Peel and mash. Measure the water remaining in pan and add to it, if necessary, to bring it to 1½ cups. Combine the mashed potatoes and potato water, stir, and set aside to cool.